jackywongto

choy..... but I will be doing full test tml.

I have 1 bunch spare at the side. you can have it. Comy you have xenia?

The 2 spiral coil just moved to the sides and the 2 tentacles in the middle just release poo I think..... damn disgusting

The purple SPS has bleached a little but seems to be suriving. OK, the xenia is growing too fast and has encroached my rock. Question: Do you guys trim these? I think it will easily double its size in 3 months time. Pls advise.

I had both of them together before. no issues.

OK I think I just saw my coco worm poo in the tank..

more like getting too hot....

** oops I am guilty of stocking too fast too

The colouration is off. hmm I need to try to capture the right colour. Will try again later. Exploring this method of feeding them.

Finally after waiting for so long, CF finally released them for sale.

Environmental requirements Lighting: The T. derasa clams are the hardiest of the Tridacna clams, and will adjust to a wide variety of conditions within the aquarium. The most critical parameter that is essential to their well being is the level of light. They require a moderate to high level of lighting that can be supplied by power compact fluorescents up to metal halides. Simply place the clam higher in the aquarium if using fluorescents. If a more powerful lighting system like metal halides are used on an aquarium of 24 inches or less, these clams can be placed just about anywhere in the aquarium, as long as they are not blocked from the light. Water Movement: Like all Tridacna clams, the Derasa clams do not like strong direct water currents. This kind of water movement seems to inhibit the clam's ability to adjust the amount of water passing through it. Be sure when placing the clam, that it is in a location where the water movement is moderate, and indirect. Placement: The clam's placement within the aquarium is the last part of caring for Tridacna clams. After evaluating your lighting system and water movement within the aquarium, and have chosen a location for your clam, place the clam so that the mantle is facing upward towards the light. This is important, because the clam obtains a majority of its nutrition from photosynthesis and ultimately from the light. Do not place the clam in a crevice where it may have difficulty fully opening its shell. Make sure the location is sturdy and offers enough room for the clam to grow. Clams have the ability to open and close their shells very rapidly in order to move their position. They will do this when they do not like their position. If at any time the clam moves and is laying on its side, right the clam back to the correct position. Do this immediately because the mantle must be in full illumination in order to provide the clam with nutrition. Laying on its side, the clam will slowly starve to death. Tridacna clams are not only some of the most beautiful additions to a reef aquarium, but because of their superior filtering abilities, they offer an added stability and nutrient control to the system. T. derasa clams are one of the best choices out of this genus. They are aquacultured, hardy, fast growing, and adapt to a wide variety of environments. These clams are a great choice for not only the beginner reef aquarist, but also offer diversity, beauty, and rapid growth for even the most advanced reef aquariums. Trace Elements: Giant clams use calcium and strontium in order to build their shells, and these elements should be present in the aquarium at or near those levels found in nature. Calcium, which should be added to all reef aquariums in order to maintain a high pH, should be maintained between 380 and 420 ppm, with a high stable pH of 8.3 to 8.5. Strontium is typically replaced fast enough during routine water changes, but may need to be supplemented in an aquarium containing a large number of hard corals. This level is more difficult to test for, but should be maintained in the range of 6 to 10 ppm. Although slightly higher levels of strontium have proven not to be harmful to most invertebrates, it can be a source for unsightly cyanobacteria outbreaks. Iodine is the last major trace element utilized by giant clams. Iodine aids these invertebrates in their ability to break down the oxygen that is produced by the zooxanthellae cells, and ultimately helps the clam maintain their bright coloration. In many systems, regular water changes and feedings are sufficient to replenish the iodine levels. However, aquariums with large numbers of soft corals or if aggressive chemical filtration is used, may need iodine supplementation. If the clam shows poor coloration, and the soft corals within the system show poor expansion, test the iodine level and use a supplement to maintain this level in the range of .04 and .08 ppm.

hey bro, I am as noob as you lah.... wrong person to ask haha. But heres what I found out from the web: ========================== Besides their beauty, clams offer one important benefit to a saltwater aquarium: Their ability to filter nutrients from the water. Nutrients in a closed system, like an aquarium, often build to the point where they become problematic. Excess nutrients, like nitrate, lead to problems with low pH, algae and cyanobacteria blooms, and ultimately, poor health with the livestock in the system. The colorful, fleshy part of Tridacna clams that is displayed when the shell is open is called the 'syphonal mantle.' This mantle contains both an incurrent (intake) and an expelling orifice (opening). The clams use these openings to move water through their internal organs, where nutrients and plankton are filtered out and consumed by the clam. Tridacna clams not only use nutrients from the water to satisfy their nutritional needs, but also employ algae cells called zooxanthellae within their mantle. These algae cells use nutrients from both the clam and the water, and along with light, they photosynthesize. The energy that these cells produce through photosynthesis is then returned back to the clam which uses this energy source to aid in its growth. The nutrients that clams remove from the water are mainly ammonia and nitrate. When a clam feeds upon ammonia, it eliminates this nutrient from the system before it is processed by the biological filtration. The biological filtration is what facilitates the nitrogen cycle, and by not allowing ammonia to enter into this cycle, the end product nitrate will not be formed. This ultimately reduces the biological load and lowers the overall nitrate level in the aquarium. By incorporating these beautiful, fast growing clams into your saltwater aquarium, you will increase the biodiversity of that system, thereby creating a more stable environment.

The Maxima Clam is also known as the Great Clam or Rugosa Clam. The mantle is found in a variety of rich and vivid colors and patterns. In general, the Maxima Clams have larger areas of solid color than the other Tridacna clams. The two halves of the shell are elongated and lack symmetry, thus it is sometimes referred to as Tridacna elongata. It has closely spaced rows of scales on the upper portion of the shell. Its shell may reach a width of up to 12 inches. Like T. crocea, it can burrow into the substrate, but not as deeply. It may also attach by its byssal filaments, which it can do in a day. The Maxima Clams are known to live together in great congregations in the wild. Both wild and cultured Maxima Clams are found in the aquarium industry. The Maxima Clam is probably the most widely recognized species of the giant clams. The Maxima Clam is moderately hardy and requires bright lighting supplied by metal halide lamps to live, grow, and keep its intense colors. The type of lamp will depend on the depth of the tank and the position of the clam. A daylight fluorescent tube is also recommended. The Maxima Clam requires calcium levels of 400-480 mg/L, and a carbon hardness of 7 to 12 degrees. Proper levels of strontium and iodine are also needed. The subtrate should provide multiple areas into which the clam can burrow. The Maxima Clam relies heavily on the photosynthesis of the algae growing in its mantle. However, it should be fed daily with a yeast-based suspension unless the tank is populated with fish and corals which are fed regularly. It also requires nitrogen for proper growth, and if the nitrate level is too low, additional nitrate should be added, but the level should not be higher than 2 mg/L.

where's pic of your clam??

Thanks all. let me try it.

Thanks Lemon. Can any other bros advise what I should do?

its ok. no worries on that. just make sure your rock sits firmly when you put it back in. Pic of what I manage to flush out in my previous 2.5 ft tank. my rock was really terrible last time. Caught 2 - 3 mantis shrimp. (PS: Mantis Shrimp ==> very very bad.)

Hi Can someone please help to advise what disease is this clown suffering from? He looks a bit thin but is still feeding normally. At the chin, there seems to be a "skin" peeling off. There is also a white flake mucus on the body. Is it contagious and should I remove it to a QT?

ya with you buzzing around him GO GO GO GO GO GO GO GO GO ........ lol

Irwana delivery - min 300 - 400l. you can forget about it. pickup CF - $2 per bag. about 7 - 9 litre i think AM - $10 per 30l. If you stay in east, can pick up from irwana too. dunno how much.

hmmm 3 - 6 months is bad.

....... but seriously lah, start with a simple light. then when she see all the nice corals, let her know cannot keep cost the lighting not sufficient to support. some corals might lose colour too due to lack of light ... then at that time, maybe she will realise that to keep certain corals, certain investment need to be made. hopefully she will be more into it then and agrees to the upgrade.

No. cannot change back to male from female.

WAh you are fast, I have not even got chance to type anything yet....

mated pair will stay together at the bubble or zoa lah. likely both female. (Don't even start talking about lesbians hor ) If both male, one would have changed to a female already. Pardon my noobness if I am wrong. Just digested all these today. - who knows... Fuel might be laughing his head off.... kekeke