ervine

I think some people go beyond that... but for safety's sake I run my chiller and 250W MH on seperate sockets... But then again I have my computer running together with my chiller connected to the same socket too... but still that won't exceed 2400W lah... Maybe a little safer, just make sure you don't load the chiller and MH plugs on the EXACT same socket on the extension cord...

I already have the hole drilled.. but it's not enough... water from the skimmer and chiller chambers are enough to flood the tank...

Same level of safety required... In fact extensions might be considered dangerous... ... I think it's maximum wattage 2400W? Or was it 4000... shit... forgot liao

Okay here's a schemetic diagram of my water flow... it's relatively to scale... you can see how small my sump is and how little leeway there is for possible flooding... Please advise.. thanks!

Monti caps can do with low light? Funny my tank is the opposite.. using SPS to fill in gaps at the top where it's a waste to put buttons, shrooms and other softies...

Sump is small.. that's the first point.. Second point is I have 3 routes that will flood my tank... 1st being the sump to tank output (which already has a hole) this alone will raise water level in my sump by about 1-2" 2nd being the chiller which likewise is set high enough to cut the siphon action but the reservoir in the chiller still dumps enough water into the sump to raise it by 1-2" 3rd being the skimmer which when empty will also raise water in sump by 1-2" I can afford only something like 3-4" before my sump floods... (sump was meant for my 1ft nano last time!!) I'm also apprehensive about the check valves.. it'll kill my flow tremendously siah...

Hm... my advice is don't go for the MJ... my MJ is not performing as well as I had expected.. rather go with a larger pump >2000l/h...

Oh but AT's ones are huge... wonder if they have a smaller version

yup uses a powerhead.. it's a rena flow 300 I think... slow flow good to ensure that the undissolved kalk doesn't accidentally reach the top.. How to make it water tight? Hm... clamps are one, superglue, silicone the usual stuff.. it took me a long time to get it water tight.. but now after building it I know how to do it... just did my skimmer in pretty mucht he same way...

Hais... more money.. shucks... Nevermind lah I try the check valves first... anyone where to get?

bottle too small.. a bit risky if the undissolved kalk gets into the tank.. Why not just use opaque PVC.. dirt cheap... then connect with translucent tubing to see the kalk solution running so as to know when to top up? My DIY kalk reactor is also opaque PVC just I didn't incoporate the translucent piping... when do I top up kalk then... This one I'm still wondering... but it seems like once every few weeks looks alright... http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=11253 can see it here in one of the pics...

No one knows where to get check valve?

Have I ever maintained it? No... because i just bought it.. have the previous owners ever maintained it? i think they did the normal cleaning of air filters etc... no major stuff Actually some people disagree with the slower flow rate issue... but I think mine should be okay lah... 2000l/h but toned down + the height it pumps up... should have easily cut in half... Thermostat not accurate? Hm... off by maybe 0.5 degrees loh but I just compensate it with my in tank thermometer... Anyways... after lights went out the chiller starts up every 20mins and lasts around 7mins.... So do you guys think this is reasonable? With Lights 8mins ON 10mins OFF Without Lights 7mins ON 20mins OFF So effectively it'll be running for around 8hrs per day (hope I got my maths right)... is that reasonable?

reborn sells it at $45 i think... but that was what I heard.. din see it with my own eyes... Edmund sells it at $54 after 10% discount... I got mine from him... DIY-ing tunze?

Don't think it'll solve but i think probably slow down or retard the spread of ich... BTW.. why is everyone giving him such a hard time.. don't lend don't lend loh...

gasp... HO = high output??? HO-T5s???? Wah sunlight in a tube!

Oooo... kh was at 5-6dkh, Ca at 380ppm.... a little on the low side... seems like my kalkreactor not charged up enough.... Anyway.. added some kH buffer to bring kH up to around 10-12... will check out to see if the foam has any change... BTW.. I thought i was harder water that is more difficult to lather to foam in the shower? It's soft water that's difficult to lather meh?

speaking of hitchhikers, I managed to nab a nasty bugger with the old prawn in glass bottle method... didn't bear to kill it so I banished it to my refugium... now cannot find it liao... Unfortunately that was the only crab i managed to nab.. the next time the trap was laid the bait dissapeared... crap...

Wah they've moved like 3 times in 3 years?? I remeber several years back I used to visit them for FW plants back at Sims Drive

I believe henry from ML carried them some time back.. maybe u can check with him to see if it's reef safe... But that's the TRUE teddy bear crab.. I can't tell from your photos..

Hmm.. but it IS keeping the water temp at what it should be at... and it only turns on for 8mins at a time.. Could it be that it's just my tank which is running too many heat producing appliances? Will go and monitor it after the lights are out... by right it should come on a lot less frequently...

MUTANT POD!!!!

Oh by the way.. i've timed my chiller after a day of running... It seems it turns on every 10mins for around 8mins... so 10mins off, 8mins on, 10mins off, 8mins on.. etc... What i suspect is that: 1. Chiller is working fine and can cool the tank rather quickly 2. Heat being pumped into my tank is equally fast Are my deductions correct? Thanks again... (BTW, i set the temp of the chiller at 28, thermometer in tank reads around 27.5... should be an okay temperature right?)

Not new... 2nd hand... 1 yr old liao...

Huh that's available in singapore meh?