ervine

Mine took lke 2-3 weeks... and I'm still tweaking it...

I heard sea lettuce is good...

Hm.. i have noticed some before but I thought they were harmless.. anything I can do about it?

HMmmm... how can that be possible? open already still overflow? you mean your outflow pipe is completely stuck? does any water empty from there at all?

Hi, I was hoping that an articles section could be set up to store some of the more "permanent" threads, eg. how to hatch brineshrimp, how to set up DSB or whatever... Coz now when I need to look for an article I have to do a search which can sometimes be quite frustrating... would be better if everything was in one place, outside the forum. In that way in case of a crash it would be easier to retrive... What say you?

Nope.. I changed the light months ago... only now then got reaction... I just tested pH & kH with lights off and it's at 8.0, kH at 7dkH (JBL)... Seems a little on the low side... Hmmm... any suggestions? I started buffering with Seachem's Marine Buffer...

I think the durso pipe should have a tiny hole to allow for air to get in... Eg. My durso pipe when I seal the hole with my finger the same thing happens.. gushing... Hope this helps

Oh yah... my FW I used metal so didn't rust.. salt water is another thing altogether... but the last time I used it it also didn't rust leh.. hm.. Anyway either plastic or metal, the problem still remains... how to ensure that the drip rate stays constant... any ideas?

Huh cleaned live rocks? Why clean them of all the bio-diversity? Well anyway, IMO, I rather have everything that is originally on the rock... worms, snails, crabs, anything will do... it's better than having a dead rock right?

Hm.. but nothing has changed leh.. even before I upgraded my lights... so can't be lighting... don't think it's current either coz nothing has changed as I mentioned.... Maybe it's the pH... already dosed some buffer... have to wait and see... I saw one or two of the younger polyps opened.. but the rest still shut tight... sigh... wait till tomorrow then...

Are you refering to the gravity drip? Quite simple what.. just go out, buy one of those big orange juice bottles (w/o the OJ! or drink it lah) then pierce a small hole at the bottom, connect a small metal valve and adjust accordingly... I don't know how some of the reefers get it to be so accurate but last time when I did it for dosing in my FW tank, I could never get the drip rate right... maybe it was the valve I was using not quite suited for the job... Also, the dripping rate of a purely gravity fed drip is dependent on the water level in the container, the more water the higher the water pressure, the higher the drip rate... so what I did last time was to make it a siphon drip instead... so it SHOULD have been independent on the water level Not sure if I'm right or not... now that I come to think of it.. I think I might be wrong... Aiyah anyway I hope u get the picture... just get a bottle, pierce a hole in it, silicone in an adjustable valve and tweak away... Hope this helps..

Darn.. my pH test kit is with my bro... okay will get it from him and test tom... thanks!

Hi guys, Is there any reason why my colony of zoos (which have been around for about 1yr) suddenly refuse to open? Whereas everything else in the tank looks perfectly normal, just the whole colony closed up.. not only one or two but everyone... Usually they would close only if disturbed, eg. by my hermit crab... but now they are all closed.. I only get to see my tank once a week, so not sure how long this has been happening... (all automated stuff, less feeding done by dad)... but so far I have not changed anything in the tank Please advise.. thanks!

I too have recently (in fact just) removed all the bio-balls and coral chips that used to be in my sump compartment... replaced with some plastic supports which hold up the filter wool and chemical filtration stuff...

Alright, coral chips removed... and boy did it trap a lot of dirt.. phew.. Will give it a week to see how the difference...

I thought someone used to help set up these boxes? I would also like to know about it man... I quite tired of all the wires going everywhere.. but risky to try considering all the AC going in.. I got electric shocked TWICE doing my DIY auto-top up man... bleah... painful stuff...

I bought mine (translucent) 5gal from Sungei Road... one of the shops nearer to the main road, outside got a lot of big containers... but $12 bucks.. I think I got chopped.. Can see my post on the DIY auto-top up under the DIY forum...

You'll be better off finding the reason for the leak and removing it rather than getting a probe to solve your problems.. probe should be like just in case there is a leak, not to solve the leak...

Okay I think I'll give it a shot... thanks!

Will I have a problem with breaking down waste? Since I have no DSB?

I can't seem to understand the photos leh... maybe I am mistaken but are u using those sucker type divider things?

Hi guys, I've heard people advocating the use of a skimmer & refugium alone in the sump (+ some filter wool which is to be replaced frequently). This is because using bio-balls & coral chips can actually cause them to become a "nitrate factory". As for myself, I do not have a DSB, only liverock and 3" sandbed in the main tank, filterwool, coral chips, skimmer & refugium in the sump. Should I remove the coral chips? Thanks, Ervine Lin

Haha.. I wonder how long that will take man..

I use a normal midsized single outlet airpump.. don't need very strong because the one way valve helps to prevent back leakage... as long as the air goes into the jerry can safe liao...

Mine is just plain water... not sure about him.. Naso - Ahhh.. yes great work.. hope what I did does justice to your original idea... heh..