sherman

Fish and RBTA sharing the same house. Under 1 roof

AI 26 x2 is a good choice. Or if yr pocket allow go for radion Sent from my LG-H990 using Tapatalk

I have another pump install in the main display that pick up those floating detritus in the main display water

This is a filter I add at any pump inlet. One of the pump is the return pump

I asked this question beginning of 2017. The recent budget annoucement force meto think again I believe I will change track and go no water change

These spotted mushroom has multiply after 2.5 months of no water change

This Chilli Monti still look ok after 2.5 months no water change

Add this hammer in Feb 2017.

My Forest Fire after 2 months of no water change

So now I has skimmer Next I will add secondary power filterationAnd dose iron supplement to control PO4 and carbon (vodka)to control NO3

I have an acceptable skimmer. BM Curve 7Used to use rowa then AF phos minus for PO4 controlLast month decide to remove it totally. Phos remover are expensive when you need to deal with high PO4.Used to use AIO . Stop using 3 months when AIO used up.

Water change or no water change . All those successful reef tanks under both categories has one thing in common. Everyone has their own method to ensure the basic parameters of a reef environment are metand some even look into the some of the elements balancing.Regardless of each method one use there are the common practise for most reefers All has at least one nutrient export system. And the common nutrient export system is a good skimmer.Others include control of PO4 and NO3 . Like Red Sea,Zeovit , AF ,Fauna Merlin.....And still others include secondary filteration system .In conclusion we can see fast and efficent export of nutrient is very important.

Water change or no water change all has very successful tanks.Water change without measurement or testings can result in things going very wrongHow many of you actually check your newly mix water parameters before pouring into your tank system? (Beside Salinity and temperature)Most assume all the key parameter like CA,MG,KH ,PH are same or close to your tank parameter.If you aren't testing to see what is going on, there is no way to know if the method is actually working - looks can be deceiving and things can turn bad suddenly, in the long term, if a wayward parameter or two is left unchecked past the point of no return.

Last Dec photo

And this DSR by Glenn Fong http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2395250

Parameter STABILITY can be by dosing or by CR with dosing. Nutrients need to be control at a certain acceptable level both for PO4 and NO3

Another successful no water change tank http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1885414

Farmer don't even filter or remove his detritus. Farmer reply to Brandon on his thread on detritusHi Brandon,That's the thing. In my old 125-gallon, the sand and sump accumulated all the detritus with no issues for 3 years. I literally had about a 1/2" layer of it in my sump. No issues

Another photo

Some photo from FarmerTY tank

Farmer TY ask:What is the goal(s) for water change?

http://www.reef2reef.com/threads/no-water-changes-farmerty-reefing-method.208435/ This is not a company . This is individual who choose no water change and sharing theirstory.

Its a little more then 2 months now. I using iron supplement to control phosphate and vodka to control nitrate. CR usually has MG problem. So u need to supplement accordingly. Sent from my LG-H990 using Tapatalk

Here water testing is via Inductively coupled Plasma (ICP) by Triton.Anf supplement by Triton Reef Elementz and Triton Lani Leds