sherman

Don't think i can make it. Please take out my name

Bro, You want brand new one or used one?

Using led with 4 T5HO is there any energy saving?

I have the same experience 2 to 3 years back. The digital salinity meter underread and I keep adding salts. In the end Henry help me finf out the SG is 1.035. Lost many LS by t he time find what happen. Still the refractor meter and the simple floating SG meter is the best

Sure to work I had being using it for 4 years.

Sori to hear that. But I think you are not the first one to meet this. My Ext control also go off 2 months ago and i lost some fishes and corals. I still cannot undertand how it happen. But just have to accept it sometime Cheers up bro and continue the hobby

4 tubes of 24 watt T5 gives around 100 watt of light. Your tank is 800 mm hight. So is about 2.5 ft deep. No led can penetrate that height without lens. A 60 deg lens over a 3 watt led will bring the light down to 2.5 ft. Get your LED distance from 2 to 2.5 inch. Normally a 50/50 mix of white and blue is the widely acceptable ratio. With PWM on each color you can adjust the spectrum from 14 k to 21 k Hope all these help

Should be the shop at the basement.

PAR is probably one of the most important considerations along with the related Useful Light Energy, Lumens per Watt, Focused Lumens and Watts per Gallon when choosing a light for your aquarium, yet is often over looked by both marine and freshwater pant keeping aquarists. PAR is the abbreviation for Photosynthetically Active Radiation which is the spectral range of solar light from 400 to 700 nanometers that is needed by plants for photosynthesis. This is found from actinic UVA to infrared; 400-550nm which is the absorption bandwidth of chlorophylls a, c², and peridinin (the light-harvesting carotenoid, a pigment related to chlorophyll) and ~620-700nm which is the red absorption bandwidth of chlorophylls a and c².

Parts of the writeup for those who want a quick review AQUARIUM LIGHTING By Carl Strohmeyer Updated 4/09/10 As you will read more later in this article a watt is simply a measurement of energy NOT light output or even quality. Even comparable lumen output at the lamp is no longer a good measure of lighting parameter performance due to focus and restrike; a good example is a modern LED (such as the Aqua Ray) which has a vastly higher lumen output than a comparable wattage CFL (such as a Current USA Compact Fluorescent) at 20 inches The four most important criteria in determining the light you need are: • Lumens per watt • Lumen focus (as well a restrike, although less of an issue as per my research and tests than focus) • PAR (this is important to understand as well as related useful light energy) • Watts (or watts per gallon, however this term is way over used/simplistic)

More Link and writeup @ http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Lighting.html

The attachment ledvsmh.doc

How today leds perform as compare to MH? Follow the link to get the answer http://www.ecc.co.nz/files/downloads/LSPROM114.pdf or see a quick comparison below

If you using more then 1 led then you connect them in series. That is positive of one led to the negative of another led. Check for the led spec.The require voltage for the led will let you get the correct power supply for your led array circuit

Depending on your tank depth and the type of led use. If you using the standard 3 w led,you use 60 deg lens if your tank is more than 16 inch deep and less then 25 inch. However if you tank is 2.5 ft to 3 ft deep use 45 Deg lens. If you tank is more then 5 ft depth use 30 deg lens

You can get one and try. It is from Taiwan. But no choice of color.

If you have 24 vdc power supply you can run 6 LEDs in series. The excess vdc is use to run your constant current supply. If you are using 3 watt leds, we can run any current from 350 mA to 1A max. So 6 leds use 24 vdc , 1A DC adaptor. If you have a second circuit of 6 leds connect in parallel to this 1st circuit of 6 LEDs then you use 24 vdc, 2A DC adaptor.And so on..... As for DC adaptor do not buy the cheap one. The cheap DC adaptor usually do not have protection and can burnt off your LED rung in no time

Remember to accimalise your coral slowly. LED look weak but they are powerful. Many corals bleach with the sudden increase in PAR and intensity

This piece with me since my 6.5 footer

So far most of the LS survive and growth since I start to replace all my light with leds. In fact many had return from almost dead back to full color.

I totally agree .Your MG is too low.

Nice to see you update after so long. What DSLR you using? You should be able to adjust the WB to get the correct setting. Happy Reefing

Hi Bro, Where you manage to get the gadgets for the continiuous feed project? And how much? Looking for a long time but cannot find one Thanks

Just get yourself a hammer and 1 minus head screw driver.