FuEl

What media are you using in the first chamber?

http://www.spectrapure.com/St_di_systems.htm DI technology is more advanced now. What many people are unaware of is that there are many grades of DI resins. If the resin grade is poor, it will get exhausted very quickly. A link which explains the different resin grades. http://www.industrialwaterequipment.ie/ion-exchange-resin.html

A very good article on RO & DI units. The last section highlights how to extend the life of your DI resin. http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/saltwater/metelsky_water%20qualityhtml.htm I don't use RO, since Singapore tapwater is already of potable standard. RO is more for areas with non-potable water, with the need to filter out pathogens from the water. The TDS reading of the tapwater at my place is around 100+. I only got a DI unit mainly to reduce my diatom problems due to silicates. Even before I got a DI unit, I was already raising shrimp and fish larvae using water straight out of the tap. Corals, including SPS, did well too with Rowaphos running in a FR. The only additive I used was anti-chlorine since local tapwater has chloramine added. I've always wondered if it is necessary to use such pure water. No commercial salt mixes to date even match the exact properties of seawater. Even metals in the so-called best salt mixes are often hundreds or thousands the concentration of the levels found in NSW. What is the point of using such pure water when you are simply adding excess elements back into your tank when you mix such water with the "perfect" salt? In my honest opinion, as long as you run carbon blocks to remove potentially harmful inorganics and resins to absorb the unwanted phosphates and silicates, the water should be good enough even for the most demanding reefers. I do not see the point of wasting so much water through RO. If you need a lot of water purified, go for industrial DI units. Those are way more economical compared to those aquarium sized units. I do not know the cost over time of a properly designed DI unit versus a RO unit but given a choice of saving money and saving water, I choose to save water.

Cleaner wrases get whitespot themselves. They do not eat whitespot.

Only 2 known species of harlequin shrimp. H. elegans is from Indo-pacific and is found in pink or blue. H. picta is only found in hawaiin waters and many times more expensive.

Think I remember seeing some at CF.

Adding 10% Mg is fine but you need to monitor your magnesium levels. For me, Mg levels do not really fluctuate much and I prefer to monitor and adjust it manually.

They should do one more on "zoapox" and zoanthid nudibranchs.

Effluent is the water exiting from the Calcium reactor.

Water temperature below 28 degrees.

If can dedicate a species tank to ventralis anthias I believe the fishes should do very well. Cooler water should help, as it would lower their metabolic rate and help them retain body condition better. Warmer temperatures you would need to feed more frequently to fatten them up.

I would suggest you leave out the royal dottyback and the six-line wrasse. In such a small tank, it does'nt matter whether you add them first or last. They are by nature very aggressive fish. Your other livestocks are more pricey, why would you wish to risk them?

Run the effluent through a second chamber of media to help buffer the pH of the eventual effluent. Try to drip the effluent into an area of high gas exchange like the intake of the protein skimmer to help drive out excess carbon dioxide from the effluent. It is this carbon dioxide that lowers the pH due to formation of carbonic acid.

Nano reefers should rush down to Reborn. They have sailfin blennies and limited pcs of Gobiosoma macrodon (not sure if sold out already).

Need to see ORA's pricing on the mandarins first. No point pumping out thousands of dollars on copepod eggs for the initial breeding attempts.

Probably not so soon. Demand in the States alone is probably enough to capture the whole production. Let's just see how much ORA will be asking for these fish and whether local reefers will be willing to spend. If the price is viable I might just start on red mandarins.

Wonderful. A good example as to how hobbyist breeding has inspired commercial operations to do the same.

If they eat Aiptasia it will be cool. Many butterflies eat aiptasia but unfortunately only very few species are reef safe.

4 days you will be better off not feeding. Live mysis die very fast in an aquarium and can foul up your water very quickly if you are not around to remove the dead & uneaten ones.

Depends on the optics and the height you place the spotlight.

Finally. Someone else who can appreciate the "lemon tree" coral.

Now you just lack another Helfrich, the Cook Island variant.

Initially price of this LED spotlight is that high. It only dropped after more competition came into the market. Vincent, would be good if you can indicate if this LED spotlight can accomodate XPG bulbs.

They have worked very well. The spread is a little narrow as I am using 40 degree optics. 60 degree optics should have been a better choice.

Nope. It's a very good algae eater. It cleans the glass real well.