FuEl

Peppermints available at Iwarna. Saturday morning Iwarna: captive bred orchid dottybacks, sunrise dottybacks, neon dottybacks and blue neon gobies. Those who looking berghia nudibranch pls drop me a pm with your contact.

Used to breed them but too troublesome & not worth the time.. If you need any just let me know. I'm arranging another import soon. Estimated pricing $30 each.

Check with Madpetz or Iwarna.

Most test kits only test for inorganic phosphates. Even if this value is zero, there might still be organic phosphates present. I would'nt worry excessively about the nitrate levels, 8-12 ppm is manageable.

Great products in great hands.

Depends on the brand. For C-balance, same volumes of each part. This is assuming your parameters are in optimal range to begin with. For individual tweaking of parameters, the dose will be different.

Biopellet is a carbon source. If you do not have enough nitrifying bacteria to utilize this source of carbon, cyanobacteria will absorb the excess carbon for growth. That is why there are bacteria products that accompany biopellets (Eg. Bactiv8 with NPX Biopellet).

Do not mix captive bred clowns with wild caught clowns, unless the wild caught clownfish has been quarantined. Brooklynella hostilis is very common among wild caught clownfish and they are deadly not only to wild caught clowns, but to the healthiest captive bred specimens as well. <10% of wild caught clowns actually end up surviving long term in aquaria primarily due to this disease.

Overdosing can cause or worsen cyano problems. Better off using biopellets, much safer & works on the same principle.

Canisters can be used but you must remember to clean them regularly, at least once a month. When you cycle your tank, remember to add sufficient ammonia if not it's not a complete cycle. This is where most people go wrong when they assumed they have cycled the tank just because ammonia reading is 0 to begin with. It simply means insufficient ammonia has been added to even start the cycle. The purpose of cycling is to build up bacterial populations to a level that will be fully capable (not partially) of handling the waste produced by livestock upon stocking. Sources of ammonia can be ammonium chloride, products like Biomature from waterlife, prawn meat, decomposing fish, etc. I prefer the first two methods. Get an ammonia test kit (API recommended) and aim for 8ppm ammonia. Add a source of bacteria either from liverock, livesand or from commercial bacteria solutions. Keep testing weekly until you get 0 ammonia. Nitrites should be 0 for the cycle to be considered complete. Change 50-60% water after full cycle to remove nitrates and you are ready to go. This is how troublesome cycling is meant to be, most people get it wrong. That's responsible for most new tank syndromes.

What's the volume of your tank:? It's very important. My SPS tank 5 gallon tank needs 20ml a day of each component just to hold the value. For a large tank even with few hard corals calcium is easily depleted by coralline algae, calcaereous tubeworms, clams, etc. Carbonate hardness is consumed by corals, and most people will be surprised to learn that kH is increasing depleted along with increasing bioload or when things decompose (uneaten food, fish waste, etc). So the higher the fish load, the higher the rate of carbonate depletion. I suggest you double up the dosage to 80ml of each part and see if the value still drops. Of course the more volume of each you add, it would be better to increase the dosage frequency (eg. from 12x to 24x separate dosings per day) to prevent fast swings. Most full blown SPS reef if large volume will be very costly to run on commercial 2-part additives. You may wish to check if you would save more if they have a bigger packaging size or you may wish to consider changing to balling salts which would be more economical.

Anyone looking for mini orchid dottybacks & mini sunrise dottybacks? 1-2cm specimens available. PM me to arrange viewing if interested.

Mini blue tangs @ Iwarna & only a handful of healthy flashlights left.

Don't carry zeovit reactor but I've got the automated Fauna Marin Zeomatic 2 if you are interested. I only have the largest model, 4.5L model. http://reefbuilders.com/2010/01/21/fauna-marins-zeomatic-2-zeolith-reactor/

My relatively inexpensive rare fish..

Amazing interactions. Wonder how the gobies will fare once the other fish gets big enough.

http://reefkeeping.c...9/rhf/index.php Most test kits only detect inorganic phosphates. To remove organic phosphates before they can turn into inorganic phosphates you would need a very efficient protein skimmer, coupled with optimal tank turnover rates and skimmer turnover rate. You may also add products like It's Clear (a product that is based on chitosan) to help coagulate organic phosphates for more efficient removal by the skimmer or if you are running ULNS the bacteria will absorb organic phosphate and the bacteria mulm will be skimmed out by the skimmer. You can have 0 reading inorganic phosphate reading but still have algae problems, as there is constant supply of organic phosphates that is quickly taken up by algae/cyanobacteria before they can be converted to inorganic phosphates. First line of battle is to tackle organic phosphates as they are formed, rather than tackling inorganic phosphates as the end product.

Buy a coral dip to dip it. Brown jelly is bacterial & can be infectious.

http://aalso.org/2009presentations/NicholsWaterTreatmentAlgaeControl.pdf A great read..

kH test kit, good grade sodium bicarbonate (avoid food grade), dosing pump.

Dead fishes = ammonia. Your tank could be in the process of a second cycle if you didn't add sufficient ammonia during the initial cycling phase. Just wait it out, get API ammonia test kit. There's a reason why I insist on API & not others. You'll be surprised that the more popular marine brands can't measure ammonia at all..

Stop doing anything. Buy a book & read. It will save you more in the long run. You have just introduced parasites into your tank even before cycling has finished. Any fishes added in the next few weeks will just be a waste of $. You don't need to worry about Ca levels now at the cycling stage. 15ml won't cause a big rise of Ca levels in such a large volume of water. Not being harsh or anything. Even my relative who has asked me to help him set up a tank I made him buy & read the book before I help him do anything. For people whom I don't know, I would recommend the same.

That's the reason why people aerate their newly mixed salt mix for at least 24 hours before using. A circulation pump won't work, you need an air pump and airstone to introduce CO2 into the water to bring down the pH.

Top dressed otohime C1/C2 available at MarineLife in the west. Many anti-bacterial medications contain antibiotics, need to check the active ingredients. If you want anti-bacterial frozen food, Iwarna has stock.