FuEl

What test kits are you using in the first place? Many brands are notorious for giving ridiculous readings.

Wow..very nice discus! What strains are they? Turquoise? The one at the bottom right looks like those wild caught specimens.

Market prawn actually just mainly protein. It will be broken down into ammonia. It's the ammonia that stinks, not the prawn. Any form of protein will end up as ammonia while being broken down by bacteria. Alternatively you could just use lab grade ammonium hydroxide (which stinks more). Most people use things which can rot as it will give the nitrifying bacteria enough time to build up in population to handle the load. If you use ammonia straight you'll have to use it in slow increments as a large initial dose can basically wipe out everything in your tank.

I never used a single ammonia test kit in all my years of reefing. Just be patient in cycling. Wait about a month and confirm you will not have any ammonia nor nitrite in harmful amounts.

If you are using DSB a sudden release of built up hydrogen sulphide can lead to your tank pH plummeting, leading to a disaster.

Oily food will affect skimming efficiency...I'm feeding garlic oil everyday...

15 mins sound fine to me....1-2 min on/off will surely spoil the maxijet faster compared to 15 mins intervals..

Hmmm...I'm tempted to try.. But what timers should be used? Only electronic ones?

Here is a great link http://www.carlosreef.com/AnemoneFAQ.pdf

sea cucumbers.

It could have went back up the overflow against the current like a salmon? Not sure for blennies, but gobies have pelvic fins that can form some sort of suction with surfaces. Maybe your blenny did just that?

Red bamboo macroalgae also good.

Wah..no lah..how can be bleached... Think it's the other 2 factors.

Intraspecific = within the same species Interspecific = between different species

Hmm..maybe it's the issue with insufficient territory. Fridmani's would rather kill each other on purpose (unless they are a pair?) than to kill other species... Intraspecific aggression is more likely to be greater than interspecific aggression.

Won't it be cool if you can install a pop-out middle finger sign at the back of your boot? Then if ppl drive to close you just press the button and the finger pops out.

I think he meant the strawberry basslet..not the fridmani..

Hmm..can always add 1 orchid dottyback and see if all 3 can get along..

T5 revolution. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthre...threadid=239653 Some say T5s can last up to 2 years!

Is the ich killing the fish? If it is not don't worry too much. I've heard of more cases of fish dying during drastic treatments than being left alone.. Just use treatments that don't stress the fish further.

Corals whether hard corals or soft corals cannot sustain on blue lights alone.

Even if many LEDs can match the output of a MH...what is the point of using so many bulbs when a single MH will save you all the hassle of wiring stuff up?

If your surface area of the dsb in your sump is comparable to the surface area of your main tank then by all means go ahead. A DSB in a sump can actually be more efficient than a DSB in your main tank as there will be less obstructions on the surface of the DSB. A DSB is not a must. Many german tanks do great without any DSB. However, you will have to find another way to prevent nitrate buildup. Can be accomplished via excessive skimming, low bioload, less feedings, 24 Hr photoperiod in refugium, weekly waterchanges etc. I myself using DSB in the sump as I fear my main tank cannot take the load of so much sand (ugly to look at too). The surface area of the DSB is only about 1/5th of the surface area of the main tank. Somehow nitrate levels have dropped by almost half since I've set up the DSB in sump. Amazing.. Might be due to my macroalgae, but I doubt it.. What works for me might not apply for others..maybe fishload,etc are different? If you decide to go for a DSB in the sump it would be best that the surface area of the dsb be as great as possible (Again depends on the space you have below your tank).

Roidan...going to get blue spotted jawfish boh?

Use cyclopeeze to entice them to open. Once they open it would be best to feed every single polyp mysis or prawn shreds. Newly acquired specimens are best fed after lights off. Once acclimatized, they will be more willing to open up even under bright lights.