FuEl

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rs/feature/index.htm

If the softy is photosynthetic most likely the same thing will happen. But it also depends on the intensity of the light if you are giving it, for example ambient room lighting for 24 hours should'nt kill the coral. But if you give 24 hrs of PLs, it might just do so (depending on how much light is reaching the coral too). However if the soft is non-photosynthetic (Eg. cauliflowers, etc). I think it would be best not to provide too much lighting.

Not recommended..the coral will die of oxidative stress due to too much photosynthetic activity..

Been doing some reading from www.reefkeeping.com Here are some extracts from the article on snails "Snail tissues often seem to be composed of thin layers of tissue that are very filmy and diaphanous. Consequently, they often suffer significant damage during water changes or during transport from a dealer's to an aquarist's tank. The circulatory system of snails may be very complex (Figure 5), and many of its vessels and channels can rupture under stresses caused by changes in salinity. The vessels in the kidney are numerous and delicate, and may rupture if the animal is not slowly acclimated when being moved from one set of water conditions to another. If the acclimation is too fast, the animal will die in a few minutes to a few weeks. If the snails are drip acclimated, the acclimation time may need to be on the order of five to ten hours for maximal survival." "Many of the actual individuals of Astraea offered for sale in the reef aquarium hobby come from the cooler waters of Baja California. These animals are not from areas that have sand substrates or, really, much of anything else in the way of flat surfaces. If they get dislodged from rocks, they tend to fall into crevices or crannies where they can reach a rock with their foot and attach to it. Consequently, they have never developed a "righting response." This means that if they fall from the aquarium walls onto the sand, they will not be able to turn over, and will die there unless somebody or something turns them over. Given that they also are not warm water animals, they tend to die young and leave a good-looking corpse in the aquarium." No wonder some of my astreas are dead..blamed the hermits for nothing..

Just use a ceramic diffuser and situate it below your canister intake.

Supposedly some form of plant hormones. You'll notice the effects almost immediately and your plants will bubble like champagne (provided you have enough light and CO2). Dosing it seems to help retard black brush algae growth.

Hmm..the only dennerle product which I found worth the cost was gold7. Only used a ceramic diffuser. Good enough for me.

They will nip on clams, tubeworms, snails. Other than that rather cute fellows. Used to keep them..but had to choose between them and my maxima.

I've always found it a joy siphoning all the detritus off the sand bed every week. Especially rewarding when you see the muck in the water siphoned out. Anyway, since I'm so free now, I could always provide maintenance service for a token sum.

Hmmm..scarab bro..you feed ya pratas and open brains? The open brain seems a lil bleached. I noticed that if you feed LPS at night when their feeding mode is on they will tend to recover faster. Try mysis?

Yea...always a joy doing waterchanges. I do about 1 coralife bucket every week. Sometimes I get lazy and it becomes every fortnight.

Funny why the thread becomes about blue ring octopus...actually...I would pretty much prefer to keep the mimic octopus. Not so venomous and definitely more interesting in behavior.

Hmmm..woonming, try clicking on the adware to see the information available on how to remove it manually on symantec's website. Sometimes to disable certain adware you might get the message 'Access Denied'. You might have to start your windows in safe mode before being able to disable it.

Obviously less heat..It's only 13W

Hmmm..I always use the two interchangeably..iodine when reduced becomes iodide anyway. Don't think anyone would add pure iodine ya?

Heh..if I had an AquaC or a beckett I would follow maybe 60-80% of the maximum dosage? But since my skimmer is not that good compared to becketts, etc I just follow 1/3 the stated dosage. Think point is to start slow, then slowly increase, cutting down when you observe the beginnings of diatom or algae bloom.

Yea..still remembering the times when I was contemplating whether to buy..but did'nt want to risk an escape as octopus will escape sooner or later. So just ended up playing with the octopus, touching the suction discs that came out thru the holes in the container. As long as you avoid the beak it would be safe.

Upz for a bro who has a yashia that is having the same problems that mine did.

Hmmm..seen those around awhile ago. Quite common...and for $10.

They don't need calcium much. They rely more on iodine additions and silicate.

Erm..it's a mixed reef. Running slightly more than a year already..

Coralline takes up alot of calcium too. Anyway, why not invest in a calcium reactor? You can stop worrying about Ca and kH after that..

A 250W bulb costs only slightly more...not double the price.

Don't see why so many people concerned about temperatures. As long as it stays around 28 degrees it will be alright. Occasional 29 degrees would'nt be a problem at all. 30 is a little too high though.

Meant infusoria...not rotifers..