FuEl

3M superglue gel. Got mine from bedok NTUC fairprice. 2 tubes for only $3 something if I did'nt remember wrongly.

The more evaporation the better. Your tank temperature will be able to drop much further. A fan in the sump is really useless as it won't prevent heat from being transmitted to the water surface by the lights. Best is to have the fan blow on the surface of your display tank to prevent heat transfer to the water by lights. You'll get a nice rippling effect too...just like MH.

A bright orange frogfish spotted at ahbeng's place at pasir ris. Also a black frogfish. Lots of cuttlefish too. Almost bought a small cute one...

Invert a container over it and squirt lots of mashed prawn and cyclopeeze in the container. Sure to open after few minutes.

Don't feed anemones too often. Once a week is pretty much sufficient. Anything more & you'll be killing it with love.. This applies especially to newly introduced anemones. After they have replaced all their nematocyst cells that have been lost during shipping and have acclimated to their surroundings, you can feed them twice a week but not more than that. Anemones use up alot of energy to digest their meals. If they spend more energy digesting their meals than what they can gain during photosynthesis, it will not be a very good thing. Different types of anemones prefer different foods. For instance carpet anemones prefer bigger chunks of food like a whole market prawn while bubble-tip anemones in nature consume small zooplankton like rotifers, etc. Rarely are the stings of bubble-tip anemones strong enough in the wild to capture significantly large sized prey. Different anemones will prefer different substrates. Tube & carpet anemones like to burrow their foot into FINE substrate in the wild. Bubble tip anemones can be found naturally on reefs. It is best to duplicate their environment in which they are found in if not most anemones will not survive for long. Do notE that most anemones are not treated in the best of conditions upon arrival. Most farms/LFS simply empty all anemones into a tub of water regardless of species. This is one of the main reasons why it's hard to get a healthy specimen. Mixing of different species of anemones in tubs even for the shortest of periods will trigger massive nematocyst warfare (due to glutathione released by anemones during stress, which serves as a signal for nematocysts to fire). The result is simply weakened anemones that are made available to the hobbyists.

Hmm..maybe that guy added bannerfish to keep his coral growth in check?

Yep...Ich is a protozoa. Much bigger than bacteria.

Hmm..it's okie..anyway..you can entice them to extend their tentacles in the day too if you feed enough strong smelling foods like cyclopeeze.

Most LPS only extend their tentacles at night. Even sps polyps extend their polyps more at night. This is because in the wild, zooplankton perform vertical migration & will rise from the depths during the night.

Plenums have been known to be a nutrient sink. They essentially trap phosphates and nitrates. pH of the water in the plenum is much lower than the water in the main tank. If this water somehow escapes into the main system it would be disastrous.

My jaws have dislocated...

Diatoms don't cause much harm but they do look unsightly. You might want to top up your water using reverse osmosis or distilled water as these will be void of silicates that are present in tapwater which will fuel the growth of diatoms. If you are dosing iodide you might want to cut down as excessive dosage will lead to diatom bloom.

Wish I can work there!

Lots of healthy anthias at ML. Remember seeing evansi and lyretail. Got one more species but I do not know the name as I'm not an anthias person. Few pcs of bulls-eye pistol. Lots of assorted gobies. Hairy hermits (really cute), bluebanded-legged hermits. Lots of lysmata amboinensis and L.debelius. Lots of blue tilefish. Red sea stars. 1 small cute lobster (the edible kind). Healthy looking moorish idols. Powder blue tangs. Potters angel. One more tang species...forgot the name..body rather greyish.

For such an expensive fish best to make sure your tank is 100% leap proof, overflow 100% secured...& your tank 100% free of hitch-hiking crabs. And of cause no boisterous fish swimming around if not you'll hardly see your helfrich.

a 2ft tank would house 1 lionfish.

Yo bro...I got a bottle of selcon used for mysis enrichment. About 80-90% unused. Do let me know if you interested. Can let go to you cheap.

Run a good phosphate removal media preferably in a fluidized reactor. It'll take about a week for you to start seeing your cyano die off. Of cause do try to remove as much as possible manually before starving them off if not your water quality might deteriorate.

Not peeing on the cut lah bro..unless you want the cut to hurt like hell~ You meant peeing on the stung area of your skin?

RTM = ? Or you meant your hamsters RTN?

They are forever gluttons that will hunt for micro inverts such as copepods and amphipods, leaving hardly any natural food available for your seahorses. In a mixed reef they have been known to attack ornamental shrimp even if they are cleaner shrimps. In a small tank these guys can be as territorial as the dreaded damsels.

I would have guessed it was valonia..but I don't think valonia is sticky?

Pic too blur to know what it is..but it is photosynthetic I guess.

6-line wrasses are the devils. You won't want to add one into your tank be it seahorse tank or not.

Do a search on dinoflagellates in the disease section..I remember posting something on how to combat them.