FuEl

Hehe...a fren help me get...anyway...it looks exactly like the one in http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-08/totm/index.htm Just that mine is not fully expanded yet. Hopefully will be getting baby yumas soon.

Tricolor yuma...not showing its true glory for now as it is undergoing natural fission.

You can avoid a chiller if you go for T5s. Running a profantec fan for 24/7 will solve your problems with temperature issues. However you will have to compensate your evaporation rate constantly. An auto top-up device would be useful.

Really...I don't let the water land on it though...I rest it above the water level at an angle to intercept the bubbles when they burst.

Don't use filter wool. Use the bigger pieces of foam. Those black in colour ones. I find that these don't trap as much detritus as filter wool and thus might minimise the amount of debri trapped. I'm using these not as filter medium (although I used to use this in my eheim canister)...but using them to block salt spray. Works amazingly well.

Hmmm...good...breeding these guys would be good. I would'nt mind buying the babies off you..my tanks should have enough pods to sustain them by then.. These alligator pipes are less aggressive than the other species...For example, I had juvenile male Jann's get along fine..only when they mature then the problems arise..one eventually killed the other one even in a 4ft tank. So for smaller species it is best to get subadults - adults where sexual differences are apparent.

My pet crocea...bought it from somewhere in central location today.

Wah...alligator pipes... Will they eat smaller pipes? You can try Jann's pipefish..very cool pipefish..can help you look for a pair if you want.

Hmmm...they won't browse deep enough to affect the dsb negatively. I would'nt recommend putting a barrier as it can affect diffusion of water down the dsb..thus affecting dsb functionality. A barrier such as a mesh will have the tendency to clog over time too.

Off your lights before you get the corals exposed. Most corals can last out of water for some time provided they are kept cool and moist. Don't leave your lights on to cook your coral.

I've seen those before in nurseries.

Gregorian is .... It's a gorgonian.

My tank can reach 26 if I leave the fan on 24/7.

Your nitrates are a little high, but I don't find them harmful to sps at that level. It's most prob the calcium and kH imbalance which is the causing factor.

Pluck off as much of the caulerpa if possible. If not over time they will grow all over the place and smother any corals that are in the way. By then they will be almost impossible to eradicate completely. If they decide to go sexual your tank could crash if you have caulerpa in massive amounts. I've kept a rock of this species in my display tank before..but it was confined to a single rock thus it was rather problem free. However they tend to go a little pale after lights off and regain their green colouration after the lights come back on. Not sure if they were going sexual but my tank did'nt suffer much. But then again I only had a small amount of these...if you intend to keep them under normal photoperiod just make sure to keep their growth in check. You can leave the sea squirt..it's pretty much harmless.

A sea cuke does not burrow. It merely browses on the top layer of substratum. This activity is harmless to the activity of the DSB. On the contrary it might actually enhance the diffusion of water into the DSB by preventing the top surface from caking/clogging.

Just break them into as many pieces as you like using your bare hands. Keep the ones which do not have any traces of rtn happening on them.

Oh my...hope everything goes well after you have rectified everything..

Which LFS is that? Both the frogspawn and even the free gift are bleached.

Really an interesting article..I love this part especially.. "Unless one has a magnificent 20,000 gallon reef aquarium like the jewel at Atlantis in Riverhead, NY, there is no need for most aquarists to have banks of halides in sufficient numbers to dim the neighborhood's lights, melt live rock and make the sun envious."

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-08/...ature/index.htm Some extracts: "I think that if I hear one more hobbyist complain that there is no book or reference listing the "necessary" lux for all of the beautiful corals he wants to keep, I will laugh myself to incontinence. There are other factors to consider beyond lux readings." "Issues of water clarity and turbidity instead are grossly underestimated in my opinion." "Its ironic that many aquarists spend so much money on fixtures, lamps and electricity, yet fail to keep up with simple maintenance tasks to maximize the use of light produced!"

Some still had colour...but I did'nt look much at them...was'nt hunting for sps.

Nipping is expected of maroon clowns. I've had a maroon clown which actually ate the tentacles of the anemone after biting them off. And I mean ATE...it did'nt spit it out at all.

Tube anemones are not photosynthetic...but it does'nt hurt them if you place them under light as it does not affect them in any way. The other types of anemones will require lights. Even the pest anemones like majano anemones require light. White anemones can be bleached. Such anemones should be avoided as they will have a hard time recovering especially if your tank parameters are not in top notch conditions. All anemones will need to be fed as they are all carnivorous to some extent. The concern would be how often. Beware of brightly colored anemones and other such corals. The bright yellow anemones, scroll corals, goniopora are all DYED. Such corals normally don't survive for long. Once they lose the dye they tend to expel their zooxanthellae and bleach to death.

Oh ya..forgot to add...sps clearance at Iwarna...$20 per pc only.