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Oh yes, yellow longnose butterflies got 2 species. But look similar in coloration but the difference is in the snout length.

I'm no clam expert. I have only kept a baby maxima before. If you decide to try I would suggest you place the clam no further than 10-15cm from the light source. I have kept my clam in 28 degrees before, but that's not the point. The main thing you need is to ensure stability in your system. Temperature is just a factor which might increase the chances and magnitude of things going wrong if your stability is not there. I have no way to tell how much you can feed your clam, there's no golden rule to stick to. A lighting of at least 8 hours should be implemented. However, if you are using low intensity lighting (Eg FL, PL) I would suggest a longer photoperiod of 10-12 hours.

Normal growth is asexual growth. Releasing of gametes by turning white is sexual.

What damsels are those? I love them!

Hehe..that's why I said slight. Inverts don't take to lower salinity too well, but I have reached 1.018 safely, did'nt dare to go lower. It's much better than 1.025 if you suspect your fish is sick right?

Hmm..if possible start another tank. The 2ft tank really looks overcrowded. Seahorses are not found in such high densities in the wild. They need their own space for security. Smaller seahorses might get intimidated by larger ones in terms of choosing the better perching zones. If you notice, smaller seahorses might give up the chance of feeding if a bigger seahorse is already onto the food. Anything more than 4 seahorses in a 2 feet tank would appear to be crowded. And seahorses, like f.w angelfish, really appreciate alot of vertical space for swimming. You can use adult brine shrimp, provided you feed the brine shrimp with the appropriate feeds. Things that could be considered for enrichment would be fine spirulina powder and Selcon (a blend of marine oils, high in essential fatty acids). While you feed your brine shrimp, slowly introduce some frozen mysis. These are far more nutritious than brine shrimp. Hopefully, you would be able to wean them to accept frozen foods. Another thing you could consider (after decreasing your stocking density) would be to add a few cleaner shrimp. These serve to eat any uneaten food before they rot. They will also give you a constant supply of shrimp larvae which will be consumed by your seahorses. This additional diet will help keep your seahorses healthy, as they will provide some of the essential fatty acids your seahorses will need. You could try the bowl feeding method. Bro chinmo could elaborate on that. *Sabo chinmo*

Yellow longnose and copperband butterflies are reef-safe in terms of coral compatibility. Their snouts are designed to pick at small crustaceans like amphipods, small worms between small crevices. The only thing I can think of them disturbing with their snouts would be tubeworms. Other than that, clams, corals, shrimps (###### shrimps n small shrimp with caution) should be ok.

Fungus? Parasites? In any case check your water parameters for any thing which might bring about stress. Your fish should recover by itself if all is well. You can perform slight hyposalinity treatment. Don't go below a specific gravity of 1.018 (That's the lowest I tried).

Ah..so there my beloved goby is..the one with prize winning finnage. Kinda miss it..could I buy it back 1.5 years later? After I sold my nice fishes as I thought I was dismantling my system, my dad said he wanted to keep fish..@!#!~..then now he's keeping damsels and chromis.

Depends on your tank width, placement of clam and the type of FL used. From what I understand, Zoo Med & Coralife FLs are the better brands to go for if you decide to stick to FLs. You've got to situate the lights directly on top of the clam. You can maximise the light intensity by using proper reflectors for each FL tube. Go for a color temp between 6,500K and 10,000K. As for the clam, you could try a derasa or a maxima. Avoid croceas as they come from shallower waters in the wild. In general, the more brightly colored a clam, the higher the light intensity it requires. Getting the right sized clam to be kept under FLs is also an issue. Smaller clams rely alot on phytoplankton supplement. If I did'nt remember wrongly any clam above 3" can survive primarily on lighting. You still have to feed them, but not in the larger proportion which smaller clams need to survive. Anyway, a clam will survive and grow as long as it has positive energy gain. Light & feeding will play important roles in this case. Lighting being the more important factor for bigger or colourful clams. It's easy to tell if the clam is getting insufficient lighting. If the clam does not have enough light it will extend its mantles further outwards than normal. If you notice slower growth than usual, it might be due to lighting intensity dropping (which means you got to replace the tube). Or you might have to check your Ca and kH levels to make sure it's optimum. If you notice no growth at all despite Ca and kH levels being correct, it means the FL lighting is too weak or your placement is too far from the lights. Visible growth should be seen in 2-3 weeks. Growth will be more visible in smaller specimens (Eg. thumb length maximas) as you will be able to see scute development rather clearly. If you decide to try, choose clams that respond to shadow movement and avoid any that are gaping or have damaged bases. Ideally pick one which is attached to a small piece of rock.

Hmmm..yea..all the lecturers are stressing on the seriousness of plagiarism. Sometimes its scary, cause sometimes when you write somehow you plagiarise unknowingly. At least that happens to me a little.. Anyway, now doing one module which is alot of hands-on work. You get to do piping, room planning, phytoplankton cultures,etc for bivalve spawning. Using oysters...was hoping maximas or croceas were used instead. Also get to see lots of equipment I never delt with before. Pressurised sand filters, algae scrubbers, swirl separators, catridge filters. Weird though, have not seen any protein skimmers at all. Hmmm...have not seen any taipans..but guess what? A hatchling inland taipan is only below $300. Maybe I buy one just for milking purposes. Auction the inland taipan venom on Ebay.. The only reptiles I've seen here are free roaming frilled dragons on my campus, blue tongue skinks (pet store), long neck turtles (pet store), cunningham skinks (pet store), childrens,small, large blotched pythons. Have'nt seen any black headed pythons. My dream snake.

Thanks for all the support from you guys. Only thing now is the work load. I've got a literature review and an essay due in 4 weeks time. The text citations..the referencing..argh! I'm going nuts...but thank goodness there is not much distractions here compared to Singapore. At least I spend more time reading here..the advantages of being in a small town. Write a book?! Leave me out..Reading scientific journals is already giving me enough headache as it is..much less say writing a book with all the appropriate referencing, etc. If I do so, I'll be bald very soon.

Hmm..James Cook University..If you want to do marine studies there is no better place in australia than Queensland. The universities here specialise in marine biology and aquaculture. Tasmania is also quite famous for aquaculture too. Main reason why I did'nt go tasmania was that I would prefer a more tropical climate closer to home... and the reptiles!

Hehe..think better not post too much.. Last picture...powerful industrial pump.

Hmm..3 stage catridge filters and U.V sterilizer.

Hmmm..just thought I'll post some pics of things I'm playing with in school.. Pic 1 : Larvae culture tanks and a 3000 liter header tank

A piece which I had... Blinding lights, relatively slow flow. But it still opened.

First one looks weird for a rhodactis leh...resembles more of a supermushroom..^.^

I spotted P.nocturna at I-aquarium on a number of occassions. Guys interested can try there. Only $6 or $8 the last time I got them. It will be hard finding those with superb finnage as most are torn due to fighting within themselves. IMO quite a peaceful fish unless other fish wanders into its perching area..whereby it will proceed to chase them off. Does'nt chase them all around the tank...once the fish leaves it swims back to its perching point. Same species will fight..more seriously.

Hmmm...sad to hear that you are selling your tank. I can imagine all the hard work that has been put into it. Anyway, wish you all the best in getting a job preferably a better one. Whoever does not employ you has lost alot!

Erm..think you are confused between deep sea anglerfish and the frogfish.. Anyway, no fishes produce eggs from the mouth..

Try a plate aka heliofungia to replace the goniopora. Once the clowns have taken to the plate coral, place the goniopora back.

YEa might be a plus point. I've had sps stn on me when I first used Rowaphos. Maybe it absorbed the phosphates too fast..

Stonogobiops yashia or Stonogobiops nematode will work well. See them sharing the pistol?

Don't worry I'm sure he will be exposed in time to come. Basically there are 2 types of conmen. 1) The smart. These guys con only once for any amount above 6 digits after which they escape & don't ever con again. 2) The stupid. These guys want to con even for a 3 digit sum. And now they have to be on guard all the time because of a miserable 3 digits. Was it worth it? Moral of the story : If you want to con someone, do it in a big way. If you do it in a small way, its plain stupidity.