FuEl

Dun worry the purple firefish is more aggressive compared to the normal firefish. I had a purple fishfish half the size of the normal one. The red firegoby was in the tank before the purple one came along. The older resident got along fine with it for few months..then one day the newcomer decided to take a chunk out of the firegoby's tail. Thank goodness it was not a helfrich goby that got bitten..if not I would have cried.. Then again it might just be an isolated incident..

I'll start... Slices of bread with a spread of salad cream. Cut some pieces of salami and place them on the bread. Goes into the oven at 200 degrees celcius for about 10-15 mins. Something my inventive mind came up with..and surprisingly it tastes quite good..

Apa ball? That's the most colorful sea urchin I've seen...not sure of the species though..in the care of one of my friend's tank now..

Missed out on some important points as well.. 1) Overseas education 2) National service 3) A paranoid mind. I shall elaborate on this...I used to have a 4ft 6mm marine tank...I was cautious each time I changed water and told myself not to add too much water. Everyday I would be looking at the back glass to see if it was warping. One day I could'nt take it anymore I just tore the tank down.

Haha..that's the way of life..just like how people feed sea stars to harlequin shrimp.. bugs to lizards... mice to arowana..cats to snakes.. but oh well..most of the time people who feed warm blooded prey to other animals get flamed the most. Just because of human nature to treat warm blooded animals with higher regard. Be thankful he's not feeding a newborn hamster to the fish. With this comparison things don't seem that bad do they? Well at least this seems to go with the majority.

Hmm..long tentacled plates a.k.a heliofungias are more sensitive compared to their short tentacled counterparts (fungias). Have not heard of anyone successfully fragging a heliofungia using the methods described for fungia though.. Even for normal rearing, fungias often have a better survival record than heliofungias.

Alternatively try the dried seaweed use for making the "Or Chai" hokkien soup. After hydrating it, it looks purplish. My yellow tang in the past loved it.

Not sure if I remember it correctly.. Copepods are generally much smaller and they are dorso-ventrally compressed. Meaning they look squashed down from the side view. Amphipods are much larger often around 1mm or larger and they are dorso-ventrally elongated...meaning they looked squashed from both sides if viewed from the top. They kind of resemble terrestial springtails in a way..

Copepods. Nothing to be worried about.

Great minds think alike...

No worries jem..once my sand is cleaned I'll pass it over to you.

Nah..these type of lobsters are quite harmless from my own experience. I kept a blue one before in a goby tank and my fish were unmolested. I think what could have happened in your case was that your frogfishes probably died of lack of sleep. Such lobsters are very active at night... your frogfishes being large fellows had no place to retire (Eg. holes, crevices, etc). They probably could'nt sleep with the constant disturbance of the unknowing lobster with long antennas.

Diatom control..diatoms.. my long term nemesis from using tapwater for top-ups.

I admit I'm a plumbing noob... Ok..here's the story.. Normally to glue pvc pipes together you use the solvent on both pipes before bring them together. I have a piping which is connected to an external pump. I did not glue the pipes correctly as I only applied solvent on one pipe before joining. As such now I'm told there are microbubbles from the inflow, possibly due to venturi effect from poorly plumbed piping. Is there anyway to stop this venturi besides applying silicon to all the joints? Is it possible to break apart the piping somehow and redo the joints? Or would I have to do a completely new set?

Can hold the 7-8" for me till another 11 more days when I'm back? I will be in need of cukes to clean my algae infested sandbeds. Can trade an unidentified sea cuke with you if you like..

Let me revive history... for the newcomers. Don't confuse them lah.. RSB = a Red Sea Berlin user Sallylightfoot = incident at eAquarist AP = Acanthurus pyroferus

You will not bear to..once you see the fish and corals smiling in his tank.

Used it in an aquarium I used to work for. Mainly used for goldfish however can be used for other freshwater fish. Never tried it on marine. The thing is that all the wordings are in Japanese I think. The dosage is probably dosed on trial-and-error. I don't know what the substance is..maybe some kind of antibiotic or antifungal angent? Nope it's not sulphur...its more dark yellow..did'nt smell like sulphur to me anyway. Yes..I've got a bad habit of sniffing things.

Yay a fellow aquaculture student...welcome to the field! I'm sure you will enjoy your course! Aside from assignments and exams that is..

Depends on what fish, corals and inverts you are planning to keep. Some fish like damsels, chromises etc prefer higher flow while fish like pipefish, boxfish, etc prefer gentler flow. Corals like Sps require strong flow while most LPS prefer gentle-moderate flow. Then again if the pump is too strong you can always diffuse the flow by reflecting the flow off the glass or by splitting the outlet into two.

The small one next to it is a copepod. So I assume the large one is an amphipod? Look so different from the top..

Amphipods are really secretive animals. They might only come out during the night as I notice they have a liking for dark surroundings. I remember the time I took my canister for washing. That was like 2-3 months without washing. I was surprised at the amount of amphipods that were living in the canister.

http://www.petsforum.com/personal/trevor-j...hikeralgae.html http://www.reefs.org/library/aquarium_net/996/996_2.html If the cyano looks more brown than red it is most probably dinoflagellates. Encountered them before when I had my tank last time, I notice they would become less visible at night too. Normally they form a film and will have air bubbles trapped below them. In any case, reducing nutrient levels will help control their spread.

Thanks for your replies guys. I have done a little reading up, although not very thorough. So far I came across information on peppermint shrimps, blood shrimps and the normal cleaner shrimps. So far peppermint shrimps seem to be the easiest due to rather short larval stage, however I don't think I will be able to get my hands on them down here. As for blood shrimps, they also have shorter larval stages compared to the skunk cleaner shrimps. Food and rearing conditions does'nt seem to pose a problem. The only problem I face is the settlement cue that they need. Have'nt been able to find much information on that..is that an industry secret?

Sounds like dinoflagellates..