FuEl

Hmm..it's just a hypothesis of mine that Linckias or other pigmented sea stars like Fromia will influence colouration. Have'nt got any chance to test this yet, depends on how my scholarship application turns out. But it's a known fact that Linckias are one of the natural prey items for harlequin shrimp in the wild. Linckias might also be more nutritionally complete compared to sandshifting stars. 2-3 weeks for one sea star to be consumed is quite short compared to a similar sized Linckia which could easily last 3-4 weeks. Do note that Linckias also appear to have more "flesh" compared to sandshifting sea stars. It's like comparing a gutloaded brineshrimp to a 48 hr starved brineshrimp. Just take note of edge of the "claws" of the harlequin shrimp. If in the unfortunate event they should appear to be "nipped"/turning "brown"/undergoing necrosis, it's an early warning sign of nutritional deficiency. Happened to mine before they passed on...initially thought they fought..but then rethinking back..pairs don't fight. Varying the diet for any animal will do good. Just my thoughts.~

Always a good idea to run the output of your ozonizer through carbon before passing it back to your sump. That way you don't have to worry about possible cross reactions.

I notice if you get more blue spectrum into your lighting white xenias tend to stay that way without browning out. Remember I bought a xenia colony that was brown in a tank with yellowish lighting (MH). After I fragged it, under cool-white light (T5), the frags turned white-peach very soon.

Could it be...Ricordia plastic?

Those are pretty much harmless. Common name is yellow star polyp. Does'nt harm fish. If you feed them enough (with golden pearls, rotifers, etc) they get very attractive and will begin spreading by splitting.

That stuff is called pseudofaeces. Basically it's mucus secreted by the clam mixed with detritus that has settled on the clam. That's how they prevent detritus from settling on them.

Nice pair and good photo shots. Just an advice that sandshifter stars might not be a good diet for them in the long run. I changed the diet of my pair from linckias to sandshifting sea stars and the day before they started dying they were wandering around, possibly looking for other sea stars. They were healthy animals, with the female releasing larvae into my tank. The next day one died...and days later the other one died. Don't save on the linckias, it will do them good. Linckias also appear to have more flesh compared to sandshifting sea stars. I have a hypothesis that they get the blue colouration from blue linckias..but I have yet to do work on this. I did however notice a change in colouration if I switched from blue linckias to orange ones.

Wow..if that is so I must take a look..can use in larviculture tanks.. No need for sump.

What do you feed your shrimp? Make sure the food has cholesterol content. Your best bet would be frozen food or fresh seafood.

Hmm..can film your own version of LOTR.

Everyone's chanting "Frag, frag, frag!"

Hmm..plankton safe? So does the plankton get tumbled with the air at all? Or they can't enter the skimmer?

Are you sure it's the same one? Those were on sale earlier this year for only $6-$8.

If they form a brown mat with bubbles beneath you probably have dinoflagellates. Normally they will grow over the sand and when enough bubbles are trapped beneath from photosynthesis, the whole mat will float eventually. Additional water current in addition to the above recommendations might help further. Either remove the silicates by running rowaphos or waiting for the silicates to be used up completely. During this time you should only top up with treated tapwater.

Interesting thread..seems to be attracting as much attention as the NKF saga. Hmm..I wonder what happened to the NKF saga thread..people forgot about it?

components of f/2 medium

You guys deserve to be nominated to be in the "independent detective group" of SRC.

For microalgae? Try doing a local web search on f/2 medium or Dix mix. Those for freshwater plants can't be used due to different chemical compositions. Cheers~

What project? Frag workshop?

1) Nitrates build up when the export of nitrates can't keep up with the production of nitrate. Nitrates can be taken out in varying ways from anaerobic bacteria in functional DSBs and within liverock, to nutrient uptake by macroalgae. If you lack such ways to export nitrate, you should prevent nitrates from forming in the first place. As there is no way to limit the amount of aerobic bacteria which produces nitrates from ammonia, it would be logical to limit the source (ammonia). Reduce ammonia production by feeding wisely and keeping temperatures low to reduce metabolic rates. As ammonia is a breakdown product of protein, if you have a well functioning skimmer, the protein should be exported before it even ends up as ammonia. Thus this stops the whole biological cascade which eventually forms nitrates. 2) Yes. I did'nt use any mechanical filtration in my sump. I just used a sand bed for biological filtration. The thing with mechanical filtration is that it needs frequent maintenance. If you get lazy, it results in more harm than good. That's why many reefers stopped using canister filters (They have to clean it too often). 3) DSBs need a long time to be fully operational. For new tanks, don't rely on your DSB for nitrate export in the beginning. Pump up the skimming, do your water changes, and you should be fine.

Yep. That's right. Feed as much as your fish & corals consume. Experience will lead you along as you feed. Such food will satisfy everything. From fish, to corals and to crustaceans. Crustaceans can't synthesize cholesterol and can only obtain it from diet. Best source is from fresh seafood.

Water parameters suitable for sps. 2 most important parameters are high n stable pH and kH. Temperature should be maintained below 28 degrees celcius if possible. My entire frag collection crashed when the temperature rose above 28 degrees just for 1-2 days.

Blend squid, prawn and mussels and other seafood you wish to add, drain the water, freeze the rest. Thaw and you got both fish and coral food. Much better than any bottled coral food in terms of nutrition. Any food no matter how it is prepared will compromise water quality if you overfeed. Just take it easy on feeding. Feeding instructions on commercial products should never be followed fully...tanks vary.

Not bad..but too bad can't see the people..if not can stalk people online..

Some that died at day 51..