FuEl

Still around. Unsure of price.

Make sure nothing can eat them and they should do fine. They only live for 12-18 months so its good to get young shrimp. The shrimps I have are 4 months old.

I have contacted you guys who have reserved the shrimp. I have put Aiptasia in and it's an affirmative that they go for it. Still interested please contact me asap within the next 2 days if not I'll put them up on first come first serve basis. Need to lower the bioload of my tanks.

I think sheriff is referring to weedy sea dragons and not leafy sea dragons. Weedy sea dragons don't get as large as the latter species. sheriff, does the exporter have a licence from DEH (department of environmental heritage)?

If you want to see how big green iguanas get do visit the reptile park and you can get a rough idea. Most green iguanas in the trade now are captive bred in many parts of the world, like El Salvador in South America. It does'nt matter how endangered an animal is. Even CITES 1 animals like tigers can be traded commercially once production is beyond the first/second (can't really remember) generation. Like the moluccan cockatoo, it's also on CITES 1 but you still can find them in bird shops in Sg. No point lobbying for rights to keep reptiles in Sg. Government bodies are too lazy to change. The overly conservative mindsets of local nature groups does'nt help either. These people just have reservations against cold blooded animals. Whether your reptile is endangered or non-endangered, you are not allowed to keep them. Does'nt mean there are'nt people breeding them in Sg. Veiled chameleons, tarantulas, tortoises, ferrets, hedgehogs, sugar gliders, etc already bred by the people who live "undeground" for fear of being charged under senseless & baseless laws.

Hi Melvyn, have not come across any information on this but considering their larval duration and the time for them to reach maximum size they should have a lifespan of at least 2-3 years. The large wild-caught pairs you find around should already be at least 2-3 years of age. Monitor how long they survive from there and you'll end up with a good estimate.

Hi arcanehacker, peppermints are more than glad to eat other foods other than Aiptasia. Contrary to popular belief, the shrimps don't get immune to the sting by Aiptasia unlike clownfish with anemones. Each time they work on one, they get stung. Bigger aiptasia should be macerated somewhat to reduce their potency such that peppermints would be more willing to work on them. As for their disappearance, most probably they got eaten (by fish, other crustaceans, geckos, and possibly even by giant aiptasia which they thought they could handle ). Aiptasia stings are stronger than those by tube anemones. Anyway, thanks for the support people. The 20 shrimps are all reserved. Thread closed.

2 other undescribed species of peppermints have been misidentified by scientists as L. wurdemanni in the past. Work is still undergoing on identifying the other 2 species. So in that respect, I can't really tell you guys what the exact species is. I can only say that the adults were purchased from a very established LFS. I have pmed you guys the information. I've been told that some Indo-Pacific Lysmata species also take Aiptasia. I will double confirm this in future.

PM me for the link.

Clown gobies are generally reef safe, but not SPS safe. They clear the tissue on the SPS such that they can lay their eggs on the exposed part of the SPS skeleton. They continue to peck on SPS even when they are not breeding. It's a habit I guess.

Kindly add to the list below. Thanks. Will ask my friend to pm you guys for collection. 1) shawncel - 4 pc 2) nightdust - 1 pc

I have 20 pcs of captive bred peppermint shrimps for sale. Although the parents were marketed as L. wurdemanni and they do look like L. wurdemanni in reference books, there is a slight chance they might be a novel species. Check the link below and you would get what I mean. These are below market size (<2cm) and thus are going for an attractive price of: $14 per pc OR $24 for two. Please list your interest below. Collection will be in Kallang area.

Parasitic isopod. It's something like a flea. No such thing as a good parasite. Suggest you kill it.

Think MarineLife carries waterlife products as well. There is another product called Octozin. Not sure whether Myxazin or Octozin is more effective against bloated eye, think reading the instruction manual should help.

After seeing a post in arofanatics about a crystal red shrimp selling for $1500 , I was wondering if breeding marine shrimps are even worth the hassle. For one thing marine shrimps have larval stages, unlike freshwater shrimps which are easy to raise. For blood shrimp larvae to settle, it takes about 2 months. And an additional month of growout is needed if they are sold between 1-2 cm. The above pricing is for this size range, which is great for nano tanks. If current commercial sizes are to be reached it would take at least 8 months of grow-out, needless to say shrimp will become more expensive by then. Maybe at twice the price? Growing out shrimp is not cheap. Blood shrimps have lifespans of about 2-3 years (that is what I have heard), so it is sometimes advantageous to get not too large specimens. So the question is, how much are reefers here willing to pay? Probably from this poll I can extrapolate it to other species as well. Just need to find out if blood shrimps are even worth the hassle. Obviously this poll would have furthur consequences in the future sustainability of the marine hobby so please vote with consideration to this.

When I mentioned that sps can even grow using normal FL tubes, it does happen if you do your setup properly. This would mean shallow tanks and lots of FL tubes. SPS are capable to adapting to extremely low light (Titlyanov et al., 2001). Even if a certain brand of T5 does produce better PAR, it does not neccessarily mean the increased photosynthesis seen in sps will lead to increased calcification (growth as we commonly call it). Interactions between calcification and photosynthesis still remain unresolved and are still matters of continuous controversy (Houlbrèque et al., 2003). As such, I don't understand the statement by which someone made regarding a certain brand of T5 unable to achieve growth. There are many other factors that affect growth in SPS besides light. Other factors include feeding (Houlbrèque et al., 2003) and water motion (Dennison and Barnes, 1988). Growth in sps is thus a combination of various variables. Very often in aquaria, we often blame it on light when the limiting factor could have been otherwise. Marketing hype for aquarium lighting often plays on the lack of understanding on sps growth. Colouration in SPS is always held in high regard, although it is often not related to sps health at all. This is nothing but a common effect of anthromorphism. The comment on colouration is not a ridiculous one. If so many other people could be considered ridiculous as well. Check out this article and notice the comment made by Andy. Like how clownfish fare better physiologically without an anemone host, why could'nt SPS benefit more by being brown? I quote from the following article by Dr Ross J. Jones. "Corals gain most of their brown colouration from the photosynthetic pigments of the symbiotic algae (zooxanthellae) in their tissues. When corals bleach, either they lose zooxanthellae, or the zooxanthellae lose their pigments, or both." From this statement one can simply infer that brightly coloured sps will be more prone to bleaching compared to brown ones, simply because they have less zooxanthellae. Thank goodness sps are being aquacultured. If they are not, probably all the SPS will be left in the oceans in distant future would be brown. No SPS would want to appear attractive as that would simply warrant their removal from the oceans. Simple basics of selection pressure on evolutionary change. I was once an avid ATI fan, but seeing the way the brand is being marketed right now simply puts me off. It kind of reminds me of the recent elections which I will not dwell on. I'm sure there are other reefers who feel the same. My next T5 choice would certainly be any brand but ATI. References http://www.reefs.org/library/article/borne...iss_nguyen.html http://www.spc.int/coastfish/News/LRF/3/2Jones.html Titlyanov, E. A., Titlyanova, T. V., Yamazato, K., Woesik, R. v., 2001. Photo-acclimation dynamics of the coral Stylophora pistillata to low and extremely low light. Journal of Experimental Marine Biology and Ecology 263 (2), 211-225. Houlbrèque, F., Tambutté, E., Ferrier-Pagès, C., 2003. Effect of zooplankton availability on the rates of photosynthesis, and tissue and skeletal growth in the scleractinian coral Stylophora pistillata. Journal of Experimental Marine Biology and Ecology 296(2), 145-166. Dennison, W. C., Barnes, D. J., 1988. Effect of water motion on coral photosynthesis and calcification. Journal of Experimental Marine Biology and Ecology 115(1), 67-77.

Person A can drive a ferrari from point A to point B. Person B can drive a bmw from point A to point B. Person C can drive a toyota corolla from point A to point B. Can all cars reach point B? Simple answer is yes. That being said, even normal FL tubes sold in hardware stores can achieve growth in sps. Colouration in sps is another common misconception. Just because we want sps to appear colourful and aesthetically pleasing to us does not always mean it will be at its optimum health. If sps could talk I think an interesting question to ask them would be whether they would prefer to be colourful or dull.

Check your salinity using a refractometer (don't use a hydrometer, it defeats the purpose). Sometimes we neglect the most basic parameter.

Neon gobies can only clear large ectoparasites like gill flukes, isopods, etc. They don't cure ich, ich kills them. Same goes for cleaner wrasses.

Test your salinity with a refractometer to be sure. Shrimps are very susceptible to salinity shock, especially at higher than normal salinity levels. Even acclimatising does not guarantee that shrimps will be able to adapt to higher than normal salinity levels.

Very plump and well conditioned female.

The pair is really large and releasing larvae on a regular basis. So if you want fish food for your tank often can consider this pair. $40 for 3 is a steal considering their size.

You can light a candle or build a small light bulb at the bottom corner of your tank away from the overflow. Keep this light source on at night. Once larvae hatch most will gather there instead of going down your overflow. You won't have enough rotifers to sustain the larvae if you buy them off the shelf (unless you only want to try raising like eg. 20-30 larvae out of the few thousand larvae). If you want to raise the whole clutch, 2-3 coralife buckets of dense rotifer culture is probably the minimum you need to have. You also need the 53 micron Nitex mesh to separate the rotifers from the culture water (the water will probably kill the larvae). Early this year I asked around but apparently there is no shop in Sg selling them due to the low demand. But I will be getting some soon.

Most crustaceans I know of can only deposit eggs on their pleopods (commonly called swimmerets) after they moult. Although there is one exceptional reef lobster in my lab which does'nt need to do this. Contrary to many online sources, I find bbs too big. I doubt the larvae are even capable of capturing them. Probably you need rotifers to start them off. Have'nt heard of them ingesting Phyto but live phyto could'nt hurt. Their larval duration is above 5 weeks. Have heard that they have very stringent water quality requirements. Best if you can have undetectable nitrates. Thanks for taking awesome care of the adult pair tineng. If could just get the larvae from you would be great. Would'nt want to stress the adults by moving them to and fro. Then again will see if I am able to take them back. Depends on my tank condition when I return.

When did your female moult? Can't remember how often mine released larvae but I think was something like every 3 weeks or so. Normally after lights out. The larvae are attracted to light so it is rather easy to gather them before you siphon them out. I will try again when I am back. Should be successful this time.