FuEl

Yes that is a similar specimen to the ORA neon green toadstool. One way to tell is from the polyps, which are usually quite short for this species. Also, they have a very very short stalk. They tend to grow outwards rather than upwards. This species come in many shades of green, under high intense light like MH their polyps tend to become more yellow than green. Also, the level of fluorescence can vary from specimen to specimen. I will post a pic soon of 2 different morphs.

They will spread..

Cephalopod tank. Can add cuttlefish.

New skimmers need to be left running for a few days before they start skimming. Even my airstone skimmer can skim so yours should be able to skim as well.

Slime on the body is usually brooklynella or velvet. Both cases will kill nearly all fishes fast. Best is to leave your tank fishless for awhile before buying new fish.

From Iwarna. They had many but most people overlook them.

Ah that day at my place you never ask me.. I got the ultra rare lilac center, outside is brown+green.

47 small ones.

No response from the M'sia side. Mike I have pm you. 1 package left.

Updated top-down shots. Might be changing the tank to crystal clear glass.

Indo-pacific gorgonians are generally harder to maintain than their Carribean counterparts. Flow is one of the underestimated success factors in maintaining gorgonians. Polyp extension is more evident and prolonged if they are provided with sufficient flow, much like SPS.

Carribean gorgonian, Pterogorgia sp. One of the more fragile Carribean gorgonians. This guy needs lots of flow to aid it in shedding.

I add 2 part additives 1 min apart. Just don't add them together at the same time.

Offering $100 for a breeding pair of normal orange ocellaris.

Will consider breeding percula pairs as well.

Yes. Octozin works. If you have a big tank it would be more economical to buy the big bottle which has around 100 tablets or 200. I can't really remember.

Check with Aquamart on DT phytoplankton. There are very few people who culture phytoplankton due to the trouble. Even so, people tend to keep their cultures pure. If a culture has more than 1 species, sooner or later you will only end up with 1.

There are many diseases other than ich. People advocate quarantine for a reason. While it is true that most fishes are able to fight off ich, all you need is to introduce a fish which might have "ich". If it ends up to be marine velvet, there is pretty much nothing you can do by then. Skin lesions are often secondary infections, usually of bacterial origin. If you are able to get hold of a bigger UV, it would help greatly. I use the Coralife 18W for the return to 10 gallons. The best way to deal with disease without a QT is to get a big UV which can accomodate the flow of your return pump, without restricting the flow. Pond UVs come to mind. Halve the recommended flowrate of the UV unit (usually stated for freshwater) and you'll get the maximum flow you can use for seawater. Plumb the UV to the return before it enters the tank, this will treat the new incoming water. Next time you get new fish, if you do not have a QT tank, give it a 3-5 min freshwater dip (pH adjusted same with your tank). Use your sump as the QT area since whatever parasite which comes with the fish will pass through the UV before it enters your tank. I have heard of cases where even the most resilient of fishes which have been healthy for years, just die like flies once they encounter marine velvet.

Yes, very big difference. Put them side by side and you can tell.

No powerheads or pumps in the tank. Most anemones will move around. You won't want them to be blended up. Anemones need very good water quality and relatively strong light. Make sure you do a proper overflow, the bigger the overflow area the less likely the anemone will get stuck at the overflow. Make sure the overflow is properly screened. An overflow along the back length of the tank would greatly reduce the likelihood of the anemone getting stuck due to suction. One of the most hardy of all anemones are bubble-tip anemones.

Looking for spawning pairs of normal orange Amphiprion ocellaris. Do PM me your offers. Thanks.

Can the Malaysian member who reserved the packs contact me? I can't find your nick in the member list and am unable to pm you. New links to the pics, old links not working. 1) Blue Cespitularia (1" frag) (Considered one of the ultimate xenias, very hardy) http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=597+2341+2512+2753&pcatid=2753 2) ORA Neon Green Polyp Sarcophyton (1"x1" frag) (Polyp is 100% green, not just the tip) http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=597+1492+2295+2320&pcatid=2320 3) Fibre Optic Sinularia (1" frag) Post #91 @ http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=84746&st=80 Unable to find any information on this via the internet. 4) Ultra Neon Green Sinularia (1" frag) (Australian origin, confirm not dyed) Post #109 @ http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=84746&st=100 5) Devil's Teeth Palythoas (3 polyps, polyps are 1" across!) http://www.zoaid.com/index.php?module=Gallery2&g2_itemId=9584

Letting off my male red head goby (Elacatinus puncticulatus) as the female went missing. It is HUGE, probably one of the biggest red head gobies you have ever seen, between 4-5cm. The head itself is more than 1cm across. Starting bid $50. Minimum increment $1. Bid ends on Friday, 2nd April, 2359 SRC time.

Those who wish to order DI resin can pm shootsimon. 1L is only around $10+ IIRC.

Glad they have found a good home. Probably the first few pearl eye clarkiis to hit Singapore shores.