I believe no one is answering as none of them has this experience and no one wants to end up with the possibility of misleading you.
You should check with the product manufacturers instead.
http://www.npbiopellets.com/
http://www.waterlife.co.uk/
I am looking for bryopsis. If anyone has a lot and does'nt mind giving away the algae instead of dumping it I will gladly take it. Got hungry lettuce nudibranchs to feed. Bryopsis have a rather feathery look and no fishes touch them. Thanks
With powerhead until most salts dissolve. Then run an airstone in the mixed water for 24 hours. If you measure the pH of newly mixed seawater it is almost always around 8.9. Levels will drop back to 8.2-8.3 range after aeration.
If you mix and aerate the water for 24 hours before using you will not experience this issue. Newly mixed seawater is not chemically stable and corals like SPS become stressed and react by sliming.
27-29 is ok for most corals. Most corals including SPS can live comfortably within that temperature range. Main thing is not to overstock if your tank is at the warmer end.
True hawaiin red flame angels easily 4 digits. If you think the price is fair, then should not compare. Pricing depends on many other factors like DOA, shipping, rental, etc.
Collection will be in Marine Parade. Frags are very stable. Newly imported cespitularias usually suffer from shipping and can deteriorate quite quickly.
I introduced 4 pcs into my pico tank and soon I had 30+ of them. The numbers are much lower now, due to a scarlet hermit crab which was feasting itself on them.
Only have limited pcs. 2 large frags that are around 2", $50 each. 3 small frags that are around 1", $30 each.
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=747+2662+2753&pcatid=2753
If there was more than 1pc I would have gotten them already. Pricing for these fish are usually between $100-$200. Then again that was many many years ago. Not an easy fish, especially for WC. I would not keep them anywhere above 26 degrees. There are captive bred ones that should be able to tolerate slighhtly higher temperatures.
The camel shrimp will end up eating your SPS. I would recommend that you get a skimmer before attempting SPS. I have a friend who is keeping his SPS without the skimmer but his tank had been stable for years and has a very large water volume of above 500 gallons. He employs other form of nutrient export like a refugium with chaetomorpha algae and mangroves. Currently as I see it if there are no means of nutrient export and you do not engage in frequent water changes to keep nutrient levels low, all you will end up with is brown sps.
Sps always look better from top-down.
There are some pieces that I can keep in this tank, which I am unable to do so in my main system with chiller and CR. One such piece is the sunset millepora. I have 2 montis which came from the same colony, the one in my nano tank has colored up rather well while the other pc had been kept by a friend under MH and all it did was stay brown. It's rather hard to explain why.
I use artificial seawater. I mix it to 1.021 and leave it in an enclosed bucket with aeration. I leave it for at least 24 hours after mixing before usage. This is to bring the pH down to normal levels. All salts I have tested do not mix to the normal seawater pH immediately after mixing.
I place NP biopellets and biohome in my HOB filters. The HOB filters provide enough flow for the SPS. In the later part of the second video, I switched the HOB filters back on if you notice the xenia swaying more. I tried not using a skimmer but my SPS turned brown, then again it might have been due to inexperience. Now I am running a simple airstone skimmer if you look carefully. I might considering taking it down again when my husbandry is more or less perfect.
Siphoning of detritus daily, water volume changed daily is around 2L. Ca and kH maintained by dosing equal parts of C-balance Part A & Part B, 2x daily. I have a pail full of aged seawater for water changes anytime.