FuEl

Fading of color due to food. Feed top dressed otohime C1/C2 within 2 weeks the color will come back. Stomach bloating could be due to internal bacteria infection, can feed with Dr G's Anti-bacteria food if the fish is still feeding. If not, treating in a QT tank with antibiotics would be your best bet.

1.028 won't cause your fishes to die. I've had SPS up to 1.034 reading from refractometer and they did'nt die immediately, just started to STN.

I have high purity Ca, Mg and NaHCO3 powder from Fauna Marin. These have biopolymers in them to stabilize pH and increase solubility and do not have unwanted elements in them. 1kg bottles are available at Madpetz & Iwarna. I have 4kg tubs as well, more economical for long term usage. PM me for pricing if interested, I'm selling at an attractive price compared to euro pricing.

Nets kill larvae. The only way to remove them is either to siphon them or scoop them out with a container.

For damsels to die probably disease. Many velvet cases you will not see spots, usually the fishes die when velvet affects the gills. You don't get the chance to see the body being covered in spots, which is in a very advanced stage.

Soft coral shipment at Iwarna

Do the following. 1) Check your water parameters. If it's not normal, change water. 2) Stop adding fish. Adding too many fish at once can cause an overwhelming outbreak as more fishes have less resistance to the strain of ich in your tank. The more vulnerable hosts for ich, the more quickly ich can populate and reach a level which can kill your fishes. If you do not practice good quarantine, your best bet is only add a fish every 2 weeks, although I would opt for 1 fish a month. This gives the new fish to build immunity. Fishes that have built resistance to ich can "disarm" ich parasites when the parasites attach to them. You need to have a balance. Immune fishes way more than non-immune fishes. 3) Add It's Clear. Natural water clarifier that improves water quality and does bind to ich. Battles Ich the natural way. This is NOT medication, it's a natural biodegradable polymer called chitosan. 4) Feed medicated food like Dr G's Anti-parasitic RX. This contains quinine which is very effective with common parasites like ich, velvet, brook, etc. This treats your fish and not your entire tank, does not wreck havoc to your tank biological filter. 5) Stop adding fish till symptoms subside. 6) Do not add medication to your tank.

Effla is solid purple without any reflective blue. Cesp has a blue sheen.

Amazing results in just around 2-3 weeks of dosing. Wonder how this piece could turn out in another few weeks.

I'm not aware of any crustacean larvae being reared successfully 100% on frozen prey. I think I might have 4-5 females. The males have larger claws.

Well done. I could never get mine to have eggs although I have like 10 of them. Looking at the larvae reminds me of harlequin shrimp larvae. You should consider live rotifers in the beginning for about 10 days and start feeding newly hatched artemia after that. Dead food tends to foul the water and success rate is greatly diminished as they lack the enzymes that live prey carry which is crucial for larvae.

0 experience with them, no one has even done them nor even reports on their larval cycle. You should try newly hatched artemia once they're big enough. Settlement is a different issue altogether, many unknown variables that can affect this.

Cheapest $50 but don't expect very nice markings or a large size of 2". They will be around 1.5-2cm. I don't usually get the chance to grow fish out till so big.

The best place to go in the west for concrete advise would be Marine Life at Hong Leong Gardens. There's a huge difference in shops specialized in marine equipment and marine livestock compared to shops which sell general equipment.

A wise initial investment would be a good book. I recommend "The Coral Reef Aquarium" by Tony Vargas. It will save you more $ then the initial investment in the book. Even long term hobbyists like myself still refer to books. You may order it here: . Also do buy captive bred fish if possible as they are more adaptable & less likely to carry infective pathogens.

There's Reef Nutrition Roti-feast at Iwarna and Madpetz. Not frozen but chilled concentrate.

Orchid dottybacks, neon dottybacks, berghia nudibranchs at Iwarna. Also available after 2pm (need to look for me as they are kept elsewhere due to their proness to Cryptocaryon): Yellow Neon Goby (E. figaro) which is already banned from export from Brazil and Red Head Gobies (Large size).

http://www.fusedjaw.com/aquariumcare/net-pen-raised-seahorses/ http://www.fusedjaw.com/advancedcare/net-pen-raised-seahorses-part-ii/ http://www.fusedjaw.com/aquariumcare/dont-sump-that-seahorse-refugiums-are-not-a-happy-seahorse-home/ Good site with lots of information. Explains the difference between tank bred & tank raised.

Yep true. Going to chill my reidis to 22 degrees.

http://www.fusedjaw.com/aquariumcare/dont-sump-that-seahorse-refugiums-are-not-a-happy-seahorse-home/

It's Clear from FAF. Give 24 hours confirm clear. Too bad it works too well, no stock left everywhere. New stock should be arriving in a week. One 6oz bottle can treat up to 4000 gallons.

And some super rare purple efflatounaria & cespitularia frags!

Just 1/3 of the Ricordea at Iwarna!