FuEl

Ok..will try your suggestion. Last night I tried a sponge but it didnt help. Maybe I need a phonecard or something.

That's what I did..but bubbles still come out as my overflow draws in some air.

I have recently got my tank running. I have an internal overflow box with a hole drilled at the back of the box (not below the tank). Have already done my piping to my sump . Anyone with suggestions how I can cut down on the salt spray entering my sump besides tying a cloth around the pipe? I have thought of doing a dorso in my overflow box but space is really limited. Anything that I can do to my piping in my sump to minimise salt spray? The piping is currently submerged in the water.

I know what a Na/K pump is...and I'm not refering to that...I'm referring to Na/Ca exchangers. Such channels do exist.

I agree totally. When I tore down my old reef I found 2 peanut worms in it! I wonder how they got there although I never seen them before. Beautiful worms that don't bother anything in the tank at all. Wanted to give them away but flushed them as I did'nt think anyone would pick up worms.

Hmmm..you don't need to tempt brains into extending their tentacles. Just wait 1-2 hours after lights out and their tentacles will all be out waiting for food.

Most important are Ca levels and kH levels. I've had coralline algae growing all over in my skimmer that was in my sump with only normal room light.

Measure how much your calcium levels drop in a week and use it as a guage as how much kalk to add per week. The amount of kalk you can add also depends on your rate of evaporation. So most people who keep sps give up on kalk as you'll have to dose daily in large amounts to keep up with calcium depletion. Dosing so much kalk when your evaporation rate is low will lead to your specific gravity dropping. Dosing kalk in the long run will lead to magnesium deficiency. Which means you'll have to monitor your magnesium levels and add magnesium sulphate (epsom salt) to bring it back up to normal levels (above 1300ppm). That's why I chose to go for a CR. At least it maintains Ca levels, kH levels and magnesium levels. As for kalk I dose it at night to minimise the nightly pH dips.

Those are only the basic transport processes. There are many more complex exchangers that exist. Can't remember most of them already but I think an example of one of them are Na/Ca exchangers (If I did'nt remember wrongly). These serve to move both ions in an antiport way. So if Ca moves out of the cell, Na moves in, increasing the osmolarity of the cell and thus water will move into the cell, causing the cell to swell. Hmmm..amazing I remembered my most hated biology topics...hehe..I'm better at ecology and general animal stuff. Hate topics that zoom into detail...like cellular processes, microbiology, etc altogether..cause studying these for exams totally kills.

Tried to entice them out with phyto yet? Get those small clear plastic tanks and invert it over the worms n squirt some phytoplankton in...try bioplankton..very strong smell.

Most people with calcium reactors either have sps or lots of coralline algae. Of cause the plus point with calcium reactors is that they will keep your tank parameters stable once correctly tuned. Manual dosing can be done if you are keeping mostly softies and LPS. However, you should always test before dosing so that you do not upset the balance in your tank. Dosing too rapidly or with other supplements adjacent to each other can have different effects too.

deal in wat? marijuana?

Dying sponges give out very harmful toxins.

Oh darn..I just threw a whole bag of those away..should have kept it for my new setup..

live rocks in your canister? what kind of advice is that!?

Hmm..from my biology background if i didnt remember wrongly adequate calcium levels are needed to maintain cell integrity. If the surrounding calcium concentration is low, calcium might diffuse out of the acro tissue into the surrounding water. The movement of calcium out of the tissue might have led to influx of water into the tissue. Forgot all the jargon about receptor transport,etc but the problem should be due to your calcium levels if all other parameters are constant.

If the male is still a "virgin" it might be due to inexperience that led to the misguidance of the eggs onto the floor instead of his pouch. Failed breeding attempts are commonplace for first time spawners.

Hmmm..be careful...a too strong pump going directly through a chiller can spoil the chiller.

Could the pouch of the other male be too small to accomodate all the eggs?

If you can space out your T5s enough it would be good to incorporate parabolic reflectors to all tubes. Such reflectors really make a difference.

Ah..posted in wrong forum section?

Improve water movement thru the colony and their waste products might provide nutrients for the zooxanthellae.

The sps will benefit.

I was doing my pipings from 9 till 1 plus..just finished.. =x

Increase your kH if it is low and try to get it to 9 or 10. Keeping kH at this elevated level has been said to alleviate dinoflagellate bloom..it might very well affect cyano too. High kH levels and higher specific gravity will also improve skimming efficiency (due to higher viscousity). Try increasing your s.g to around 1.025 slowly over 2-3 days to see it it helps.