FuEl

Hmm..I won't mind writing. Do I get paid? Jobless now.

Bought at $35. Letting for for $35. Looks green from the top under natural sunlight but looks blue thru the glass. Interested parties pm me. Pls don't bargain as every dollar means something to me right now.

Depends on your filtration and skimming capabilities. If your skimmer is very efficient you can probably feed heavily. It also depends on the number of sps you keep. Just err on the side of caution.

heh..yup..lots of blue linkias there..

It's a commensal shrimp. It lives on hosts like echinoderms, gorgonians without much benefit to the host. I've kept it before once but once I put it in my tank it simply vanished. It's less than 1cm long. The price should'nt be more than $8.

Yep. I noticed that too. But there will only be a certain extent of pink it will turn to. H.picta from hawaii waters is very very reddish pink. H.elegans looks more subtle in pink colouration.

They grew to adult size on fat sea stars like linkias. Once I fed them sandshifter stars as a staple diet they just flopped & died without any obvious signs of injury. I observed my male wander around the tank before the night he died. He must have been looking for other species of sea stars.

Hmmm..if I'm not wrong the common name for this is emperor shrimp. Will take a variety of hosts other than sea stars. In the wild they can be found on sea cucumbers, sea urchins and gorgonians too.

Good point Terryz. My adult pair of harlequin shrimps died on a diet of sandshifting stars.

If I'm not wrong Tropical Marine Science Institute on St. John Island might be providing the fish fry. I've seen them raising groupa fry there the last time I visited (long long ago)

Water motion is indeed important. Random flow is more important and helpful to prevent detritus buildup rather than laminar flow. It's best to utilise a wavemaker, modified maxijets to timers, or even tunze controllers for pulsing effects. This randomness in water movement will create the conditions needed to prevent detritus buildup. Laminar flow (eg. with a tunze 6060) will certainly create dead spots one way or another (unless your tank is very small). Enough said, I would say a few modified maxijets attached to electronic timers will work better than 2-3 tunze 6060 switched on for 24 hours a day. Just work out the different combinations of water movement you can achieve with maxijets, rather than 3 6060's that will result in a rather predictable flow of water (unless you are using them in timer mode too). Flow is important in a few aspects. Firstly, they prevent detritus from settling on sps and smothering them, causing mucus to be released to try to slough off the detritus. Mucus will attract bacteria and other pathogens, which have been said to be the cause of rtn. Sufficient flow will also prevent the spread of rtn as sufficient water movement will be able to prevent pathogens coming from rtn specimens from settling on other established colonies. Sps grow to fit their conditions. So when we place sps in our tanks we must consider which place is best suited to the conditions they have adapted to. Thin branching sps tend to need less flow. Thicker sps colonies tend to need alot of flow. If you have insufficient spots to place them, an alternative would be to frag a recently purchased specimen (it should be fine as long as it is healthy) and glue it in different spots of the tank and let it grow to fit the conditions it is subject to. Talking about flow I should be guilty. Last time in my 4x1.5x1.5 my only source of flow was a single modified maxijet. But the sps were on the top half of the tank and situated at the back shelf. So it was possible for a single modified maxijet to keep them happy. Was not into wild colonies back then. Went for frags as they can adapt to suit the water movement.

Yes they will. I have kept this species before.

One of my upsidedown gobies.

Never save on skimmers. Buy the best one you can afford. Even if it means saving for weeks, your money will be well spent.

It all boils down to your husbandry.

Sigh...so tired after work..and later today morning have to work although it's a sunday... Oh well..things you do for your hobby.. . People who are into stamps can drop by to suntec exhibition hall 602 for stamp exhibition..I'm working there. Decided to do some updates On 27th Aug (Fri)....went to the shops in lavender area..bought 2 gobies that have the habit of swimming upside down.. And 1 neon eviota.. Reached home..dumped the bags in my sump. Went to bathe. Upon coming out around 10 mins later, spotted the neon eviota out of water! It was trapped at the corner of the bag.. Dumped it into my tank. No gill movement, not a single movement which indicated some form of survival. Decided to leave it drifting in the tank as food for my sallylightfoots. Today...switched on my tank lights...and its swimming around like it just got resurrected! 28 Aug (Sat)..after work..spent 4 hours to fix up my pipings..In the end I did'nt glue properly and it started to leak. Left my tank return pump and lights off. Applied generous amounts of pvc glue on the outside at all the joints before I went to bed. Was talking to a fellow reefer today. He advised me to actually pull apart the pipings by force (since it has leaked it should be quite easy to pull apart as suggested by him). So I brought home some silicon and more pvc glue just in case. Went home...ran the return pump again to recirculate the "stale" water in my sump and main tank. Surprisingly...the piping did'nt leak this time. Decided to leave it as it is and see how it is in the morning. So far been running for about 2 hours with no signs of leak. Hopefully I don't discover a flooded living room in the morning. Oh well...below is a pic of my "toilet-paper leak test". Ignore the messy wiring..no time to tidy up.. too tired..Sigh..

As long as the temperature is 28 degrees celcius or below it does'nt really matter. Most aquarists advocate a lower temperature simply to slow down the breakdown of organic matter in our closed systems such that they can be removed by skimming or other forms of nutrient export before they get converted into nitrates. However if your skimming is efficient, you can keep most tropical corals in 28 degrees celcius. They might in fact grow faster. One thing to note about warmer water is that the dissolved oxygen content is lower, thus you might want to stock lightly.

Opaque acrylic? Will thick ones melt?

Hmmm..lots of current + Lots of sand stirring + Lots of food (including frozen zooplankton) = forest of blue flowers. Hopefully this guy continue to do well.. and grow..

Yumas...I thought rics..if Rics I book all.

Hmmm..got my crocea at $35...you interested? I might want to let it off as I need to clear some space.

I mount my end caps in cheap pvc cable trunking. Works well enough. Easy to make the holes too.

A 20,000K tube would be better. Since it's an ATI twinfix, replacing one bulb with actinic will mean effectively that the corals are only using most of the light that's coming from the other tube. Actinics does help LPS to fluoresce but it plays little part to aid in photosynthesis.

Those with small shrimps be wary...I don't trust any pseudochromis..

Yo bro I can offer my tanks to tompang first if you like. Got lots of space.