FuEl

Hmmm..think you'll have to apply for trade visitor pass if you want to go in before it's actually open to the public. Useful if you know people who can get them for you.

Commonly dyed corals I've seen include yellow gonioporas, yellow cup corals and purplish pink colt corals. Normally dyed corals don't open as much and they tend to bleach slowly to their death. A good way to guess is to look at the tissue of the coral, it it looks more intensely colored in certain areas compared to the rest it most certainly might be dyed. This can be seen in dyed soft corals. For hard corals its a little harder but how I normally judge is if the coral looks fake, it most probably is dyed. Not forgetting the fluorescent yellow pink/purple tipped anemones, these are most probably dyed.

Ah..fellow frog prince.. Pmed you..talk in private with respect to the thread starter. Anyway mAxKoh..how's your tank coming along? Do show us more pics! Oh yes forgot to mention this but try to avoid anemone shrimps unless you can maintain an anemone. I and many others have kept anemone shrimps before and without a host, these shrimp tend to turn opaque and die off for some reason.

Heh..stumbled upon an article on the benefits of this compared to other enrichment diets for Artemia. Did'nt know my lecturer was involved. microencapsulatedHUFA.pdf

Came across this article. Thought might be of some use to some guys out there. rotifer.pdf

From my tank last time..beautiful fish.

My recommendation. Neon eviota..

wow thats cheap...

Hmmm..looks like I'm not the only one who keep gobies in 4 footer.. Welcome to the goby addiction! Gobies can be seen regardless of your tank size, as long as no big fish are swimming continuously around them as gobies are by nature very shy fish. IMO 4 feet is just right to keep gobies. Just make sure no strong pumps mince them up.

www.petfrd.com

Maybe she feel you spending more $ on your hobby than on her? Aiya buy her a bigbig diamond ring then maybe she won't make noise already. If you want lobang for reasonably priced ruby, sapphire, other gemstones on ring let me know. Too bad I not in sg at the moment..don't mind setting up a tank just to keep potbelly horsies. Anyway..hope they find a good home. Your price is very very reasonable considering the effort needed to source them.

Just an idea...could we have a few people document the ongoings of the upcoming Aquarama and have a thread later on for pictures of the SRC booth and assistants? Maybe a few shots of other booths as well? I'm sure reefers overseas who can't make it to the event would appreciate it. I sure would appreciate it!

The toy for the rich. If you are earning average income or low income, a simple carboy innoculated with algae and suitable media will be sufficient. External FL tubes will provide sufficient lighting.

A website which states all human beings have the reptilian mind. Time to love your reptiles.

It would not be impossible set up a protocol for hobbyists to set up bivalve cultures. I doubt we would need to do any enriching as trochophores and D-veliger stage larvae should be nutritious enough. The problem is getting the correct species and the correct stimulus to induce them to spawn. I've only worked with sydney rock oysters so far and as this is a temperate species they spawn immediately once u place them in warmer water. Another factor is to know when their reproductive season is as you will not want to waste time conditioning broodstock to breeding condition. It's impractical to use temperate species as a continuous source of larvae as the shipping costs each time will kill you financially. You might however, be able to ask certain seafood joints to bring in ripe oysters for you. Tropical species that might be worth a try could be mussels, market clams and maybe cheap Tridacna clams if you can smuggle them over from Indonesia . One of the latest spawning induction techniques involve the use of U.V irradiated seawater. Sounds rather promising for home hobbyists. Perhaps this in combination with a salinity drop might induce them spawn on command. Probably will need a decent microscope to add sperm to egg in a 3:1 ratio. Then just leave it under very very gentle aeration for 12 hrs and you get trochophores. Might seem more troublesome than rotifers..but it does spare you the time spent on enrichment.

Hmmm...I agree with your point. Just wondering if anyone in Sg has tried spawning bivalves to produce live feeds? If people have witnessed their Tridacna clams spawning in their tanks..It might be possible to do so for cockles,mussels and clams meant for consumption? The larvae can then be supplied either fresh or frozen to either fish larvae in the appropriate stages or even to corals like sps. Does'nt hurt to have more variety does it? bawater..you studied aquaculture too?

What's a bali nemo?! It's either Amphiprion ocellaris or Amphiprion percula . Perculas tend to have more black outlining the white stripes. And they have one more dorsal ray compared to ocellaris (or is it the other way round? best to check with others).

Eh..look a little obscene leh.. Joking..

Can try mud crab also..go choose those with ripe eggs..once eggs hatch feed the larvae to your horses...then after that cook the crab to reward yourself!

Asked my lecturer about this today. He said bivalve trochophores and D-veliger stage larvae are commonly used to feed crustacean and even fish larvae! Their nutritional composition is better compared to rotifers...and they are supposedly smaller than rotifers. Trochophores do not need enriching..they develop from fertilized eggs about 12-15 hrs later. D-veliger stage occurs at about 24 hrs post fertilization. Might give better survival if fed in conjunction with rotifers during early larval stage as it might offsets the lower nutritional composition of Artemia during transition phase. Oysters, mussels, etc produce eggs around 50-70 micrometers..giant clams around 100-120 microns..maybe T.squamosa somewhere in between? Replacement for copepods if you cant culture them in sufficient amounts!

Decapsulation might actually decrease hatching rate although most literature claims it increases it. So you might actually end up with a wastage of eggs. Also decapsulation can pose problems if you do not rinse the decapsulated eggs thoroughly before use. Conventional hatching techniques seem good enough..just be careful not to drain out the empty cysts or unhatched eggs. As mentioned, rinsing artemia in freshwater will get rid of most bacteria and fungi. As for the Artemia, different artemia from different areas have different nutritional values. Those from great salt lake seem the best so far and should be available during Aquarama. If I'm not wrong canned decapsulated artemia eggs may be available and this might save you some trouble in performing the decapsulation yourself. Enriching with microalgae like T-ISO and pavlova can also be considered. These algae do not need to be live. It would be best to have a microscope to determine which enrichment formulation is ingested best by the artemia. I have no experience with Zeocon but it may be in a particle size too small for efficient ingestion (negative energy balance) or maybe its composed of too much water instead of suspended solids. This might have affected the overall "gutloading". If you feed newly hatched brine shrimp there's no need for enrichment as they have not developed a functional gut and feeding apparatus. If you do decide to enrich, it's best done overnight after the brine shrimps are 12 hrs post hatch as they can feed by then. Once the fry get bigger, copepods would be good as suggested..but can be painstakingly hard to maintain in significant numbers. Shrimp larvae would be a better choice. It would be good to farm a separate colony of shrimp like ###### shrimp or cleaner shrimps that reproduce at a regular basis. Think of it this way..if you have 50 ###### shrimps..you'll probably get a constant suppy of shrimp larvae at least once every few days to feed your seahorse babies. Cleaner shrimps can be considered but these take a longer time to mature. Think of it this way..bulk ordering 100-300 ###### shrimp might only set u back about $2-$3 (or maybe even less?) per shrimp. Small price to pay to have constant reliable supply of nutritious food don't you think? If I were to ever consider breeding seahorses on scale with high survival, I'll probably stock up on at least 500 ###### shrimp and not worry about food issues. Crazy of me? Temperature might be a factor too. I believe 26-27 degrees might help to prevent excessive bacterial blooms and to increase dissolved oxygen content. In an enclosed system with high food load, bacteria and fungi will grow as long as there is accumulated waste on tank walls, etc. It's a good preventive move if culture tanks could be switched every few days or best every day. I believe that would help significantly as that is the practice for most commercial fish hatcheries.

Interesting!

Hmmm..frequent water changes will pretty much satisfy their iodine demands. Dosing iodine in a nano tank is dangerous. A slight overdose and all your shrimps will be gone..

Stroke gf's hair..then she wonder why you so nice all of a sudden.

Up..