FuEl

Woah guys..give the lady some slack..so many gentlemen against one lady (if she indeed is). It's true that she does seem to have spammed but then again, I must admit some of the post did make me laugh in one way or another. Like the saying goes, laughter is the best medicine. Don't take it so personally guys, just move on or laugh it off if you must. If AT/mods feel that her threads are taking up too much server space they could always erase them if they decide to do so. It's not like she's a cheater playing on the enemy side in counterstrike...or like a woman referring to $ as peanuts. It's no big deal!

Cockles thrive in nutrient laden waters. They won't survive in a reef tank for long anyway. Cockles also need mud as substrate, not coarse sand. Assuming you are talking about the cockle that we consume that is..

Nah..this product is meant for people who tend to eat too much. I eat 5 times a day..so..hopefully can cut down to 3. Save $ on food also..

Not available in Sg then apply for distribution rights lor. Big $.

Frags or small colonies have the advantage as they grow according to parameters like water flow, lighting, etc in the beginning. Larger colonies are more susceptible to stn especially if the branches are very close to one another and the conditions in your tank can't match the conditions they grow to in the wild.

Fresh or frozen food is the best. Processed food are very prone to oxidative rancidity and tend to lose nutrition over time. Best to store your flake or pellet food in the fridge to maintain freshness.

Hopefully I don't die of malnutrition.. Appetite controlling toothpaste

Hmm..interesting. Well, you can rule out the blood shrimp. Its larvae does'nt look like that. Looks alot like marble shrimp larvae though.

Sad to announce the death of another hermit. This time due to unexpected and unbelievable events. Just yesterday I had another hermit go into molting without burying itself in the extra mound of sand I provided it with. I read on www.hermit-crab.com that other crabs would be attracted to molting individuals and attempt to eat their shed exoskeletons or even the crab itself. And so, I took the liberty of gently liftly the hermit without moving it too much and put it into a pail which I left in the main outdoor enclosure. Today when I went down to check on it, I was pleasantly surprised as I saw it moving around happily with its exoskeleton all over the pail (more of legs and pieces). Then came the shock. There were 2 shells in the pail. I dug furiously through the sand and I found the remains of the hermit that was supposed to molt. It was torn to bits. So here's what I think happened. The hermit smelled this molting individual that was in the pail. It scaled a vertical pail which was more than 1 ft by using the metal handle of the pail (less than 5mm thick), dropped into the pail. Then it started its feast. I still can't believe what happened..I'm still in shock and disbelief. Sigh..never underestimate the intelligence and agility of a hermit crab, even a land one.

Yep..only male got the hemipenal bulge..

Chey..thought a real lizard thread..

Swelling of anemones during water changes is a sign of stress. Possibly due to the effects of "salt burn" if you did'nt let the mixed seawater run for 24 h prior to use. Might also be due to salinity shock especially if you are using a hydrometer. If an anemone loses its "stickiness", don't feed it too often. You'll end up doing more harm than good. Let it rest till it regain its "stickiness" before attempting to feed it a proper meal that is preferably small-sized. Smaller food items are more readily digested than large chunks of protein. I don't suggest feeding more than 1-2 small meals a week. Is that granite rock?

As long as the wattage of both tubes and ballasts match it can be done. A HO ballast is basically just a ballast which has a wattage rating that is suitable for the HO tube.

Normally for rotifers people use a 60 micron mesh and below. Cheers~

Not sure about that. It's available in the States though. So I suppose you can get them if people in Sg are willing to go through the trouble to bring them in. They originate from Great Barrier Reef area and if I don't remember wrongly they have set a very strict limit on such exports.

The clearest side photo I could take of JarJar. It keeps tumbling around..hard to take a steady pic..

Meet JarJar..my oldest larvae at 30 days old. Sole survivor of the previous and unfortunate freak overflow deaths. So named as it is now cultured in the safety of a floating 60ml plastic jar. Water, air and food exchange done 3 times a day. Special treatment..

Modified the overflow. The exchange rate is only 15L/hr. Just put in 50 larvae that are 1 week old. So far looking ok..hope tomorrow the same deaths don't occur. Oh well..will have enough larvae for experimentation..the batch i took them from had around 850 larvae..

If you believe it, it exists. If you don't, it's bullsh*t. The only way such things work is by playing with the mind of people. It's all in the mind. Let me state an example If someone tells you he cursed you. If you believe it, you are already contributing to the curse. Your affected mind won't think properly and you tend to make more mistakes or do things you should'nt do. Then when such things occur you attribute it to the "curse". So in actual fact the curse is created by your own mind. Or just like the wide perception of God, heaven or hell. Frankly I don't believe in any of them. See no evil, hear no evil.

Yea..washed everything and gave them 6" of sand. Just don't want more to die. As for the food I don't think I will use dog food or cat food. I'll stick to fresh veggie, fruits, Calcium powder and maybe raw chicken meat.

Not all inverts take cyclopeeze or any other zooplankton. Only corals which have stinging cells have the ability to consume cyclopeeze. Filter-feeders like tubeworms need smaller particles like microalgae or dissolved organics.

Heavy metal, rock, and counterstrike.

Don't keep seahorse. You're not ready yet. Anyone just starting the hobby won't be able to keep a seahorse alive for long until they gain some kind of basic experience like maintenance of water quality, feeding the right foods, fish behavior and suitability, etc. Seahorses won't go extinct anytime soon so there's no rush to keep them just yet. Furthermore they do best in a tank without other fish or inverts that would harrass them. Cleaner shrimp are just shrimp that sometimes serve to remove parasites from fish. They will eat uneaten food on the sand but won't clean the sand. A sea cucumber is more useful in this aspect. For a small tank you should look at a small cucumber like a tigertail cucumber. Let your tank run for another few months before you add the cucumber. The sand won't have enough nutrients as yet. Keep an eye on the camel shrimp or if possible trade it in for the cleaner shrimp. Camel shrimp will eat corals.

I'll try my best to help you. But a good and experienced tankmaker should know what to do. 1) Eurobracing is strong enough 2) Not sure. Generally the wider the better. I won't go anywhere below 2 inches. 3) Normally the same 4) Its inside the tank 5) Yes they overlap. That's where the strength of eurobracing comes from. 6) You can have the option of having the overflow done externally for easy access. Or if you can always consider having the overflow in the middle of the tank. Does'nt neccessarily have to always be against the corner or back of the tank. For your return piping you can either drill a hole in the tank wall itself if you want to..or you can drill a hole in the eurobracing before it is put in place.

Phytoplankton. I used to use Liquifry Marine..but I stopped using it as I found out that it pollutes your water real bad and it is essentially liquified egg yolk.