FuEl

Wow...such a brave thief. Hope he has the resources to cater to all 60 of them as I doubt he would dare to sell them now. Anyway, if he lacks the conscience and is capable of stealing 60 seahorses..I'm pretty sure he would'nt think twice about flushing them all if things go out of hand. Poor seahorses. One thing I don't understand..how can anyone steal 60 seahorses without being noticed? Unless he stole them without water and they were meant for the chinese medicine trade.

.........I wonder how some people think..3 liter of water is like so pathetic...that's only the volume of 2 1.5 liter coke bottles. If the fish is large, I pity it.

Sallylightfoot crabs will eat coralline algae once they have finished up with other algae, even those on the glass. If you are unsure about crabs there are always urchins.

Try feeding it more and it should recover.

A shrimp that will cause a boxer to leave it alone is the Harlequin shrimp. I had an individual that would made the boxer to avoid it at all costs.

Once upon a time..Trimma striata (I think). The goby which swims upside down.

wow nice frogfish..anyway $300 for a frogfish is insane. It's not like they're rare.. just like how Anthony Calfo shared the same thoughts on acan prices in U.S.

A mixture of 2 grades of sand would be preferable to prevent the compaction of sandbeds overtime especially if you are planning for a DSB. Grade 0 is too fine in my opinion..maybe a mixture of grade 1 and 2 might be good.

Nah..zilch survival...probably starve or get eaten.

Dug up a pic thought it might be useful..pic of S.zanzibaricus.

Yea..amphipod..amazingly clear shot..

Full moon goby P.nocturna (I think) requested by ambystoma82..

Loss of colouration overtime is due to nutritional deficiencies. Your best bet would to be feed it foods that are rich in highly unsaturated fatty acids like chopped squid or prawns. Not to forget the carotenoids that help to maintain reddish pigmentation and their role as antioxidants. Food that contain carotenoids include cyclopeeze and spirulina.

Nice things. If you like xenia you will like these guys. These guys can crash though, no one is really sure of the reason...but I think (only a guess) it might be due to excessive alkalinity levels.

They can eat newly hatched Artemia nauplii straightaway. That's what most people feed them in the beginning although I'm doing some work on microalgae to see if it improves their survival. You'll get reasonable survival of around 70-80% or maybe more during the first week. Around week 2 you'll get a mass mortality around 50% or maybe more depending on your husbandry. Around week 2 onwards they will take minced prawn or squid..watch your water quality though. Keep artemia densities between 2-5 artemia/mL. It will take around 1.5 months or more for them to settle. During this time survival will drop slowly so be prepared. Anyway, both shrimp will produce eggs as they will alternate sexual roles. Normally the molt and spawning interval is about 2 weeks.

Lol..I don't work with fish right now so I can't take any pics of Ich. But there's plenty of photos on net anyway. ...Dun call me expert...I'm not to that level yet....I'm just a generalist..just scraping off the top of everything from fish to reptiles... I can't be on par with a vet... Anyway...Amoebas are freshwater thingies right? Maybe those are phyto cells? Green phyto like Isochrysis and Tetraselmis swim around with a flagellum..

Anthelia sp.

The presence of other fish will determine the success at which you can wean your mandarins. I had a mandarin that loved mysis so much it ate itself to death.

The "joy" of counting at day 19..60% survival.. A portion of 360+ larvae..

Did they import it specially? Or was it mixed in with the S.nematodes at the same price?

Yep...think you can leave your skimmer running anyway. Maybe find a fish to eat the flatworms? Heard stories of six-line or canary wrasses doing so..you might want to give them a try..six-lines are aggressive fish though.

A picture says a thousands words. They won't give off toxins, ammonia more likely. What nitrate levels do you consider high?

Oh dear it looks unhealthy to start off with. First thing you could do is shield it from bright light. Place it on your sandbed if need be. Secondly give it gentle-moderate current to encourage the polyps to emerge. Thirdly when the polyps emerge try feeding it with blended shrimp. Hope it recovers.

Don't worry about NO3 now. It should'nt be the top of your priority list. Get the most basic water parameters stable first. What I'm referring to is accurate salinity (get a refractometer), pH, kH and when you're ready Ca and Mg levels if you are planning to keep hard corals. Not to forget phosphate, reduce it in the beginning by not overfeeding and improving your skimming. Phosphate kills more stuff compared to nitrates. Even 100ppm of nitrates won't kill fish. I kept the so called sensitive blood shrimp in 50ppm nitrate waters (Salifert test kit) for months and it grew and moulted well. What you should do now is to get accurate test kits (Salifert is a good brand). The one you should get first right now is for kH. kH levels between 8-10 generally will minimize pH swings which is common in marine aquaria. You mentioned not changing water for some time..I won't be surprised if your kH is 5-6 (personal experience). Do take into consideration the other points iantoh mentioned. Will save you lots of $. Cheers

1) The lighting is either sufficient or insufficient depending on the type of mushrooms. But in general if you notice them stretching for light you should place them higher up. You won't go wrong with low light in the beginning but more likely to cause them harm if the lights are too bright to start off with (in your case I don't think they are). 2) No much special conditions. Maintaining iodide levels can be accomplished by water changes. If you choose to dose iodide separately using a commercial product I suggest that you buy a iodide test kit to prevent overdosage. 3) Feeding can be accomplished by reducing your skimming. Leave some nutrients in the water for them to absorb directly. Turning off your skimming for few hrs during the day might be a good idea. Don't off it during the night due to lower pH levels. 4) They fall off due to stress. Leave them in a low flow area in a tupperware with substrate at the bottom and they will attach in no time.