FuEl

Hmm, Sylvio I think you need to register to SpringerLink to view the article. There should be a fee to register I think. And oh yes I found another translation website. www.freetranslation.com Gruß FuEl

I had it before. Very beautiful algae and does'nt harm anything. If you want to keep it then avoid adding herbivorous livestock. My piece got mowed down completely once I introduced a yellow tang.

Danke for checking out SRC Sylvio! Don't think anyone has even got Labroides dimidiatus spawning successfully in Singapore as yet (as far as I know of). Most people already have difficulty keeping them alive for prolonged periods of time. Great achievement! Have not came across any literature with breeding this species so far but if you manage to succeed you will be doing mother nature a very big favour! Gruß FuEl

###### shrimps will tend to stay around each other. They form non-obligate associations with many corals, meaning that they are not host specific and they can survive well without a host. A host makes them feel more secure though. One of their natural hosts in the wild are Heliofungia sp. Fungia should work as well and they are hardier compared to their long tentacled cousins. $8 for a single ###### shrimp is seriously overpriced. If you know where to get them and you order in bulk you can easily get them for $3 per pc. Of course a certain quantity would be needed (>10). 10 shrimps should be ok for your tank.

Shrimps make better work of eating uneaten food from the sandbed. As for algae control either reef-safe hermit crabs, sally lightfoot crabs, emerald crabs, abalones or urchins. Algae blenny goes mostly for diatoms. Fish that eat green hairy algae you can try small rabbitfish or even small tangs.

Many factors will cause fish to die with their mouths open, not solely cyanide poisoning..

Try not to restrict the flow and see if the heat problem subsides. If so, either don't restrict the flow or change to another pump of low wattage. High wattage pumps are sure to run hot.

Check your rocks for crabs.

Stirring up your substrate from time to time will benefit these guys as well. Yes, you can frag the seafan if you find it too big but only do it when it is healthy.

Once upon a time, Periclimenes kororensis pair.

For a tank so small I would rather do water changes to bring the nitrates down. In fact maybe even 80-90% with overnight newly mixed seawater. The anaerobic bacteria population won't bloom that fast compared to the aerobic bacteria which is already established. So the best way to keep nitrates down in the beginning is water change, gradually reducing it as your tank matures (when you notice nitrate build up is slowing down). Oh yes ensure the test kit has not expired if not it may affect accuracy. I had a salifert test kit which expired and it tested 1ppm of nitrates when the actual value was 10ppm (had it tested by a helpful reefer). Chaetomorpha is ok in absorbing nitrates and is rather hardy. Avoid turtleweed as it is impossible to keep it for an extended period of time. To keep turtleweed successfully you must introduce other trace elements which might not be that useful for the rest of your tank inhabitants. When caulerpa, turtleweed or any other macroalgae die they will introduce phosphates and other wastes like ammonia back into your system. This is very risky in a tank of small water volume.

Attention seeker. Don't worry too much, gals find this sort of guys pathetic. They just can't handle competition.

No need to target feed zoanthids really. They absorb dissolved organics through the water. If they are dying off like you said it would help to give them a 5-10 min freshwater bath to get rid of possible parasites like nudibranchs.

Sally lightfoots eat coralline too.

Nice work there. Your name rings a bell somehow..

Phosphates harm sps more than nitrates. 10 ppm nitrates won't even kill larvae, not to mention sps.

Reduced photoperiod will help to keep your pH from rising further. Photosynthesis only extracts CO2 from the water and result = pH rise.

Yep those. More value for $ are the frozen type (concentrated pastes stored in freezer) as they can last longer compared to the live ones (normally stored in fridge). However if you overdose it will affect your water quality. Even powder form will pollute your water if you feed too much. Corals and anemones take zooplankton (meat based), filter-feeders like worms, clams, tunicates etc mostly take phytoplankton (plant based).

There you go. Unless they specifically mention that the buffering effect will stop at a certain value then by right the more you add the higher the value will go. If you dosed kH buffer alone only your kH will rise. But you dosed pH buffer as well. The problem now is that it will take a long long time for your pH to drop back to normal since you increased your kH as well. Suggest you do water changes to bring things back to normal.

Haha...yep..should be from *hi**!

Use proper phytoplankton. I've stopped using Liquifry for many many years since phytoplankton became available. Corals and other inverts don't really eat egg yolk in their natural habitat do they?

My guess is that if it's not photoshopped the cat was already dead to begin with. Simply because the cat did'nt even appear to put up a struggle. No scratches on the woman's leg is there?

$20 is a good price for a specimen that size. At retail shops one that size can easily cost close to $30.

Looks like Palythoa sp. Highly toxic if ingested or if the toxins enter your bloodstream somehow. Just don't eat them (unlikely) and wash your hands thoroughly after handling them.