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30 degrees celcius should be within the temperature tolerance of tropical fish. One thing you should take note is that dissolved oxygen levels will be lower at higher temperatures. Don't overstock and all should be well.

To separate the cysts, pour everything into a clear container. Let it sit for 5-10 minutes with a light source shining in the middle of the container. Unhatched cysts sink, empty shells float. Your brine shrimp will be all concentrated near the light and you can siphon them out easily. Avoid putting culture water into your tank as it is usually highly laden with bacteria and ammonia which is associated with hatching. Soaking brine shrimps in freshwater is a good way to kill off most pathogens. You can soak them for few minutes to few hours and they won't die. They're tough things.

Either low dissolved oxygen levels or pH shock. If your kH is low, pH can fluctuate a lot during one night.

Most probably Hippocampus kuda which can be found in local waters. Feed less brine shrimp and more mysis. Brine shrimp are less nutritious. You could try raising a few female mollies/guppies with 1 male in the same tank. They do fine in seawater once acclimatized. The newborn fry will be eaten readily by the seahorse. It is best to have the fry born in seawater. They don't last long if they are born in freshwater and dumped straight into seawater.

Why buy liverock when you are going to kill them? You would have been better off starting with artificial rock.

Probably only pose threat to very small fish like gobies. Larger gobies like flame gobies should be fine. Has the weakest of all anemone stings. Even aiptasia stings stronger than it.

Ammonia breaks down into nitrite. Nitrite is then broken down into nitrate. You might want to consider doing water changes to bring nitrate levels down before stocking up.

Cool crab. Sea urchins are it's natural host.

People usually introduce newly hatched brine shrimp around day 10 or so. Best to feed the bbs as soon as they hatch as they lose their nutritional value very fast. Normally takes around 24 h for the brine shrimp eggs to hatch. If you want to enrich your brine shrimp either use Selco or microalgae paste. For me I use both.

For detailed documentation click here.

Just came across this thread in RC. Might be helpful to you. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthre...threadid=817622 IA = Instant Algae (aka Microalgae paste) if I did'nt interpret it wrongly.

10-12 h of photoperiod is the norm.

Not sure how accurate Red Sea test kits are. Best to check using a Salifert test kit before doing anything. Not normal to have Ca levels so high, unless you have been dosing alot of Ca supplement.

Most hardcore reptile keepers will suggest that you have a proper basking spotlight which emits UV-B rays, supplemented with a FL tube which emits UV-A too. However, leopard geckos are nocturnal animals. I don't find a need to provide them with such basking spots in Singapore as most of the time it is warm enough for them. Main thing for small specimens is calcium+vitamin D3 supplements (you can get them from petmart). You dust this on their food, which includes mealworms/crickets. Or just place the supplement in a dish and the gecko will lick the supplement when it wants too. Larger specimens will take superworms. I know of a leopard gecko accepting frozen caterpillars. Then again, this must be trained. Most of the time they only accept live prey. I don't suggest feeding cockroaches as you don't know where they have been (insecticides, etc). Grasshoppers can be an occassional treat too, you can find these at bird shops at certain seasons. As for substrate, good old newspaper will do fine. No need for desert sand unless you want the tank to look nice. If you want a lizard which will feed on pellets you can consider a bearded dragon. However, these grow slightly larger (about 1ft) and require vegetable matter in their diet, in addition to insect prey. You can look up on reptile products at www.exo-terra.com I know of a distributor of exo-terra in Sg, pm me if you want more details. Or you could always swing by reptile shops in Malaysia to have a look.

Give it more water flow and it should be fine. When it does'nt open up normally it is preparing to shed a mucus layer which gets rid of detritus which has settled on it. As for the color change it's a natural adaptation to different light spectrums and intensities. Nothing to worry about.

1) Make sure your test kit is reliable. Double check with another reefer you are close with. Brands like S*R* are very unreliable with regards to their nitrate test kits. 2)If it is really at 800ppm, the best thing you can do is to do water change. Maybe 30% per day until it drops to normal values.

As long as there is still pressure in the tank there is no need to refill. Only when it is very very close to zero should you have it refilled. Alternatively you can get a spare CO2 refilled just before your current tank runs out. That way you can have the replacement running while you get your current CO2 tank refilled. I think there is a reefer providing CO2 refill service if I did'nt remember wrongly. Not sure if he is still providing the service. Best to check with him. http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?...topic=14212&hl=

No problem. Everyone learns something new every day. Now at least informed members of the public can boycott such animals and leave them to the wild.

Did'nt know a neutral reply by an fellow ATI supporter would create such hoo-ha. Anyway, THC I believe I have met you before too. For some fish? . Argh...I feel so ripped off in the past. $60+ a tube!

Nothing beats a gecko. Go for a leopard gecko and you will never regret. Max size = palm + fingers. Non-endangered species. Many already available in Sg, you just have to have the correct networks. Fairly easy to take care of and adults only need to be fed 2-3 times a week. Best is that they are not skittish animals and will happily lie on your tummy while you watch tv. They easily live well over 10 years in captivity. Can read up more on www.geckoworld.net

I shall comment from a neutral standpoint. Firstly, I have tried ATI Aquablue specials before and ATI is really one of the best brands of T5s around. Even after 1.5 years, the lights were still going strong. Secondly, the AquaScience tubes at $40+ is not exactly overpriced. When ATI first entered the marine industry here, 4 ft Aquablue Special tubes were retailing for $60+ per tube. Spectrum charts are not a reliable way to judge light intensity. The way is to use a lux meter. I have said my piece.

An article which might be of use to you guys... http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/july2002/toonen.htm

Yep agree on that point by cci[RR]us. I also succeeded with my maroons by removing the female briefly (<1 week) and reintroducing her to the much smaller male.

Those are soldier crabs, commonly found along intertidal regions. If I'm not wrong they are more efficient extracting oxygen from air. During high tide their burrows actually trap an air pocket that provides them with enough oxygen till the next low tide. So I think they actually drowned. The same goes with land hermits that are kept submerged for long periods of time. It's sad to see such animals in retail shops fully submerged in water. If they are not bought they will most certainly die within a couple of hours.

Dosing of iron and manganese supplements was mentioned to help polyp extension in goniopora. Apparently they need to be fed too.