Soul

Yup .. general rule start with little and increase as needed, if u read the thread from start theres a few posts on when to and when not to dose

Both tentatively reserved for collection thks for interest.

Got 2 handfulls (enuf to fill tau hway container) to give away, sms me 97373800 if interested.

Do u have testkits for Ca,KH n possibly PH? If u do then easy, continue ur 2 pail a day routine. Do Ca/KH/PH n salinity test for 3 days in a row, if the parameters r stable then go ahead continue. If they're not stable of even close then i suggest a 10% water change a week. What salt are u using? Or are u using NSW? Is there nuisance algae growing on your rocks? If u decide to do what i suggested pls post ur parameters for the 3 days.

U only test salinity where can? The KH if change everyday the corals will be effected, also when KH not stable PH also not stable which causes fishes to get stressed up.

Alamak i too late liaoz, 2 mths time u'll have to frag again one lah hehe

Right side need more corals. If u have trouble maintaining blue color sps but not other colors maybe get a potassium testkit, could be low on that aspect.

Kindof bad, unless the 2 pails of water is properly mixed to get the same salinity, calcium and KH as the water in your maintank. Changing water too frequently causes the parameters to flunctuate too much. Once a week about 10 to 15% would be better

That poor shrimp must to hanging on for dear life lol!

Thanks for the compliments i am actually contemplating whether to relocate them to the bottom as they r growing dangerously near the pink BN plus taking up precious space for sps ... bro Ced what u think?

(lol @ myself for being silly) Thank u bro Lemon for the explaination, kindof weird having pods in the NP FR but anyway after your enlightenment on what they r i directed the outlet to my return pump instead of skimmer inlet. Thanks n cheers~

I can't tell whether these are the same pods or not as theres no pics nor comprehensive info i can find on the net but my nitrate level is a constant zero ever since using the pellets plus i only see these pods inside the NP pellet FR and not in my sorb4 FR. U can say that i just presumed they r what they r

upz for generous bro wish i had a bugger tank!

Closeup pics of bacteria pods multiplying n munching away at the NP pellets yum yum ...

U have to test your parameters straight the next few days and adjust the dosing so as not to overdose, unless u have various probes to monitor for uthen dont need. Nice sps btw hope they survive.

Ahhh i see, well i run PH meter and the difference is usually about 0.1 ~ 0.15. Now its stable at 8.19~8.22 compare to b4 it used to drop as low as 8 after lights off.

Bro do u keep an independant lighting over your chaeto? If u do then use a timer with that lighting, time it to turn on only when the lights of your maintank is off. This is to maintain a stable PH throughout day n night. Just something i picked up from some sps gurus at RC, might wanna give it a try.

Don't tell me its cooking salt!? lol kiddin ...

2 units of 160w = $1440 (w/o Cree upgrade) just to cover a little more dark areas vs 1 unit of 230w = $1150. The other issue is of cos why ppl are choosing LED units in the first place, which is to save on electricity bills & eliminate heat. 2 x 160w = 320w vs 230w ... u do the math. But like what i mentioned earlier if a person is big on budget he can put 10 units of lighting over his tank for all i care.

I just bought 2 of these, waiting for them to be delivered maybe u can consider getting too. Theres 3 diff sizes to choose from. http://cgi.ebay.com.sg/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370393119474&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_4516wt_1041

For KH u do not read anything from the cup. Anyway i will try and explain to u step by step in simple English see if u can understand. 1. Take the smaller but fatter syringe(it looks like what doctors use for giving injections) and suck 4ml of water from your sump or maintank then press all water out from the syringe to the long cup. 2. Add 2 drops of KH-Ind small bottle into the long cup. Dont overshoot hor 2 drops means 2 drops! 3. Next take the longer but thinner syringe that has a lot of markings on it, fix the sharp cap onto the syringe and suck out the liquid from the bottle labeled 'KH' til the black rubber tip inside the syringe is at the 1.0 marking. 4. Now add 1 drop at a time from the syringe into the long cup which u prepared just now, add and shake the bottle a bit keep doing this til the color change from blue until it becomes reddish. Then stop pressing the syringe, look at the bloody syringe and see which number the black rubber inside the syringe stop at. 5. Now take the instruction that is not written in English, there is a chart there with a lot of numbers correct? With the reading u got from the syringe, look at the bloody chart and see what your KH reading is. For example if your syringe marking is 0.34, so from the chart 0.34 = 10.6 KH value. Thats all, if u cant understand then i bopian its the best i can explain liao.

If u see properly each kit has 2 instructions, one is definately in English(If dont have then bring it back to the shop). As for color chart not every type of testkit has it. You want people to help then say properly which type of salifert testkit u refering to. Calcium or Nitrate or Phosphate or magnesium? Be more specific . And like some others have said many times already, if u dont bother to type your sentences properly no one can understand nor help u.

Fwah nice man, whats lacking is probably more red amongst the rest. Get a rose mill or red planet!

Nice setup and equipment choices, can see in ur latest FTS u've been clearing space at the top areas for more sps hehe ... try to get frags instead of big colonies is my advice. Can have more variety that way, easier to glue on and they will grow naturally towards the lightsource. However make sure u place the right species at the right place for amt of flow needed.