planetg

hi guys, i do understand the effects of travel distance plus loss due to elbows but as of now, redoing pipework is not an option. would seriously consider next time. appreciate all your advice and time. do keep them coming. cheers

Thanx fuel for that advice. Adding another pump is not an option too. Hi AT, i heard that Hailea is like AquaMedic OEM. in that case, why not i just get a Hailea instead? but any idea why it's running at 200W? Thanx for the advice.

plumbing (4 90 degree elbows in total)

Here's my situation: I currently have a 4 x 2.5 x 2.5 tank. My return pump is an Eheim 1262. Because of my hood and height of the cabinet, the poor Eheim 1262 has to pull water up ard 5.5ft ard 4 elbows. At that height, it's just 'dripping' water! In addition to that, as I pump water from the input compartment of my sump to the chiller, the Eheim cannot keep up with it. In short, I'm in urgent need to change the pump. Redoing the plumbing is not an option. I would also prefer an Iwaki but my current plumbing conditions allow only a submersible plus I do not have the budget for that right now. I was looking at the options available and came down to crappy choices. What can I do right? Hailea, Dymax, Weipro or Resun? I was stunned when I saw the Hailea 6550 running at 200W but was told that's why it has an impressive flow rate. Others include Dymax 5000 or some Weipro pump. Remember my head pressure. Anyone, pls advice me on what my next course of action is to be. Appreciate all your help. Cheers.

latest update All items a,b,c,d are still available as of now. I've received lots of pm and hope you guys see this update. I will take time to reply everyone that they're still available. As for other, please PM me if you're sincerely interested. Cheers.

you've got pm

Items a+b+d has been reserved till tomorrow morning. Will keep all updated. Thanx for your interest. I will reply all PMs Item C still available : 2 unused sets of Iwasaki 250W Single-ended Metal Halide Lamp + Capacitor + Ballast. This is not a ready to use set. You gotta DIY a hood or canopy or use your current setup. (only $200 for both sets including brand new timers) Cheers

more pics

more pics

have just almost finished transferring to my new tank and thus selling the tank that has faithfully kept my interest alive for 8 mths. a. 2 ft cube tank with internal-overflow sump. i have gotten it from another guy about 8 mths ago. (only $80 including 4 mths old 1600l/hr return pump) specs of tank - 2 ft cube. (actually it's taller than 2 ft) - 8 mm all round. - cover and cabinet included. b. 2 ft metal halide (150W + 2 15W FL). Seperate switches for both MH and FL. Need to change the bulbs. (only $200) c. 2 unused sets of Iwasaki 250W Single-ended Metal Halide Lamp + Capacitor + Ballast. This is not a ready to use set. You gotta DIY a hood or canopy or use your current setup. (only $200 for both sets including brand new timers) d. Live Rocks. No much coralline but nevertheless 8 mths old LR. Selling $40 for the all of them. Look at the pics. All self collect at Hougang. Only sincere buyers please. Appreciate your time to read this thread and your kind interest. Cheers. PM me if interested.

i'm no expert but yazid advised me to use multiple extensions and allow a single equipment into a single plug. here's what i did. from one power source on the wall, use a 3 gang multiplug. from these 3 gangs, i hook up 1 hager box for my lights and the other 2 extended to another 5 gangs on opposite sides of my cabinet. in that way, i try my best to put only one equipment on each socket. so far so good for a week. hope that helps.

the other side effects of 24/7 lighting is the unnatural 'lights on' all the time for critters and other creatures. i've read somewhere it affects their 'activities' and reproduction. however if it really costs <$5 to maintain 36W 24/7, it's worth it, isn't it to prevent algae going sexual!

hi AT, that means fully submerged?

i've experience in both trickling water and fully submerging activated carbon and phosphate removers. i thought trickling thru such media would be more beneficial but i've noted not much difference. any other comments?

Hi Ian and RedDevils, What are both your photoperiod like? Normally, macro goes sexual during lights out or when they start to fight for space. When they go sexual, they release back the nutrients (nitrates, phosphates) it has exported back to the tank in high concentrations. Regular pruning of the algae will help. 24/7 photoperiod will also help. Cheers

i dun really advocate freshwater dipping. but then many have been successful with it. imagine when you're sick, and the doctor immerse you into some water/chemical you're not used to. after i tried once, i never did it again. just my 2 cents

i'm in line if you intend to give away

mmm....my advise is to monitor and not dose any kind of medications. try some garlic dips on the food.

Can owners pls share some experience on the various species of Starfishes. Benefits, Behaviour, Handling, Acclimatisation Procedures and Survivability... Can't fully trust websites and books, can we? Better to hear from more hobbyists! Thanx

BLV 10K is crisp/clear white. Depends on your preference for colour. However, higher colour temperature has lower PAR value, i.e. less intense.

hi xfusion, what are your water parameters? how long have the fishes been in your tank?

fiji rocks are good cos they are really dense and heavy. shd provide a good number of 'live' stuff!

have you got test kits to measure your ammonia and nitrites? maybe you can post the results so we can help better.

u got pm

hi ivcap. advise is to go for streams if your budget allows. it'll allow you to go SPS if u catch the bug. cheers