planetg

use a proper digital thermometer and measure the input and output of chiller. it shd give you ard 1.6-2 degrees difference. else your flowrate might be incorrect.

check out the intense colour of the blasto!!!

wrasses are beautiful fishes. in my opinion clown fishes are also underrated. however, wrasses do create piles of sand dunes while digging for a 'bed' to sleep. my experience with wrasses is that they also do disturb clams. they do not nip at them but hover ard them and somtimes hide under the warmth or shade of the mantles. thus, they may irritate them. however, wrasses like the six-line are good for ridding the predator pyra snails before they cause harm to clams. in a reef world, everything is ideal. however, in our tanks, we'll have to give and take. read up more and make your decision.

no one mention abt good circulation???

i ditto AT. joe_p's results is strange. this is a good read cheers

in short, good water pararmeters and circulation. dun even need to brush ard, it will encrust the rocks and tank walls.

1/4 hp for your tank???? look towards the minimum minimum 1/2 hp

given good water parameters and right current flow, you'll be surprised how large they can grow and how fast they will multiply! enjoy

since it was highly recommended by seniors here, i decided to try it a shot a couple of weeks ago. getting good KH readings of >40 dkh with PH 6.8-6.9 from my limited experiece, it's good media! are u getting new media or using media that has been waiting at home?

hi seareef. TEST KITS: first and foremost, get a reliable test kit. forget abt those cheapo stuff unless you can verify it's accuracy PH: readings between 8-8.5 shd be ok. however as roidan pointed out, try to minimise swings. during lights on, PH shd be ard 8.3-8.5. during lights off, PH shd ard 8.1-8.2. some reefers employ reverse photo-period refugium or kalkwasser at night to keep PH up and consistent. not sure if you can accomodate these options NO2: Zero! Why? This is considered toxic for the animals NO3: As low as possible. < 10mg if possible. Try to take it easy with livestock addition and watch the bioload. (Note of Honesty: It's pretty tough to be a model reefer) That's why get a good skimmer and/or employ a good nutrient removal technique like refugium with algae. SRC contains lots of useful threads for you. Cheers

i just tested my effluent again on low resolution with salifert. at max 32 dkh, it's still not turned from blue yet. cannot measure more than that liao! unless i use sera which is drop by drop. but then again, i'll probably have to use that up very quickly if KH is high. design-wise, thumbs up to my 'shifu'. he's the best!

As above, any recommendations. Currently using Salifert. Firstly, I'm beginning to suspect it's accuracy and secondly tha max i can measure is 32 dkh. Cheers

a pic would be good for diagnosis.

hi roidan, you're evil to post that pic. will cause many to rob banks!!! btw, very beautiful clams and mushies!

hi derrick, the first 2 pics shows the detestable aiptasias. try to remove them as much as you can. cos they are anemones and multiply very quickly. they grow quite large too. make a search in the forums and i'm sure you'll find lots of threads regarding that issue. 3rd and 5th pic not clear 4th pic is encrusting porites which is not harmful. cheers

1. do i see 2 clams? what kind of lighting are u running? 2. an overflow for a 2 ft is pretty nice and well done. however, do take note of lighting for the caulerpa cos they too need light 3. honestly a Poweder Brown Tang in a 2ft is really a little cramp otherwise, it's pretty nice. and because it's near the window, watch out for the algae!

hi CMY, is your tank newly setup? if it is, diatoms and such algae are part of cycling. be patient and keep your parameters good. shd be waving gdbye to you in a couple of weeks.

weileong, some description of your current or intended live stock would be useful for some of us to help.

it's planetG not Q!!! anyway enjoy your trip!

dun think you need to close the cap. from your pic, looks between 25-50. is it a relatively new tank?

FB, Iwakis are definitely one of the most sought after pumps in this hobby. The MX series is produced in China since they moved production to China whereas the MD series is manufactured in Japan, which explains the premium. Logically, it shd be the cheapest in Japan but what is ever cheap in Japan? Thus, the next export location with a big industrial market is definitely China and HongKong. Since production is now in China, I would think it's the cheapest there. Else HK is your next best bet.

mmm... interesting product. a good product start a bulk order?

hi FB, if you do a search on RC, you'll find people complimenting Velocity-T for it's low noise level but complaining about heat transfer. Gen-X and Blueline (they claim that it's even quieter than Iwaki!) are your next best bet. All these 3 brands are decently priced. Hope you can post a review soon! Not all models can be wired for 220V and even if there is, better make an order early for them to get it for you.

my personal experience is that my CB doesn't even want to smell my aiptasias. kept it alive for only 2 weeks in my previous tank until it passed away, probably due to starvation cos they are picky eaters. however in your established tank, they could feed on other stuff other than aiptasias so chances of keeping it is better but to solve your aiptasia, it's a hit or miss! probably you'll lose some tube worms as well. peppermints didn't really like my aiptasias b4 they disappeared, also in my previous tank. i currently have one in my new tank and it's active at night. i have not seen any aiptasias yet in my tank and i'm still praying hard i'll never find any!

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