tropic

hi.when u mean circulate does it mean from bottom to top and top to bottom in a cycle? in this case there should not be any diatoms or particles build up at the sand bed right?

i think its abit underpowered.always best to get higher up. is the chiller getting the flowrate within the range below? Technical Data: Model: HC-150A Power: 1/10HP Voltage: 220~240V Frequency: 50Hz Working Current: 1.1A Water Refrigerated: 50~400L Iced Mediam: R134a Rate Of Flow: 200~1200L/H Weight: 15.0kg Size: 420×248×365mm

ok. i will check again when i go home. thnks.

wow.i didnt know vaseline does that. +1.

yes.sorry for the trouble.there is a decimal. thanks

Just an update. I have setup the controller yesterday night. everything is ok which is good ..when switch on blinking for few secs etc.. i set the setpoint to 26 and exit out menu. the temp diff before its trigger is 2degs in the manual. but my temp till this morning is still at 27deg on the controller and the chiller is still running . the other function default settings i remains untouched. i am using a ptc probe (silicone). did i set correctly?

ok.my chiller is actually 1/2hp. 2.4A rating on the chiller equates to about 552w.i will proceed with the wiring but without the 8A fuse.will post my final results.thanks!!

the picture sure helps. is the 8A necessary and if i do not have an inline 8amp can i just wire it up directly as per drawing without the 8a fuse?thanks.

Looking forward! thanks so much!this is how the final outcome..only no connections yet

hi thc.so is the setup right? do i tap the wire to the wall plug as in bro triggerfish suggest? this is how the controller manual indicates.thnks!

Hi.need help to confirm the wiring. Got the parts just need some confirmation form bros here... Eliwell IC902, 230v. http://shop.cpu.com.tw/upload/2009/05/f6145e478a4bff385a33fb48447c6cad.gif 8 and 9 is the probe. 6 and 7 is my 230v mains into the controller. 3 tap to 6 is the inline fuse 3A. 1 is tap to 7. So which part is the connection to the 3pinplug that i am mounting on the box for the chiller plug? thanks.

Do I need to purchase a separate pump to draw out water from the sump to chiller? My setup i used a seperate pump to pump the water into the chiller. I believe some T off from their return provided the pump is strong. I suggest use a seperate pump and follow the recommended flowrate for the chiller.Also pls factor chiller size for the tank. You dont want to get it underpowered and work hard to cool the tank Where is the water from the chiller usually deposited? The water from the chiller flows back to my return pump sump area where it gets carried into the tank. Main tank or sump? I thnk there is a few configuration on this. Most common is into the return pump area.Some pump directly into the main tank but must anticipate flowrate etc. Do I still need to use my return pump in my sump? Most importantly how much will the increase in utility bill be in dollars. I hope you can help me with my questions. Thank you. Cant advise you on bills. maybe can try calculate using online bills chart.Definitely will have an increase because have other acc.. Most powerful pump are around 90watt above. Hope this helps.

Double post.

Thanks noted that.Ijust need to know the differences on the two setup. As I have not used chiller before my previous setup long time back i just need to know the common setup. initially planned for an aircon compressor but after deeep though on how the trunking may need to be run to the living rm , i drop the idea. So the more common way is on the chiller 24/7 and let i adjust to the desired temp to be set automatically? Any idea the benefits it has to preset chiller to switch on using timer />?

Q1, Assuming that your tank is not in an aircon room, the purpose of the chiller is to keep the water temperature CONSTANTLY lower than the atmosphere. If you power it on off with the lights, you are creating a mini global-warming effect that will kill your corals. If you only keep fish, chiller is not a MUST in the first place. Unless you keep cold water species (deep water species, temperate species) ___________________________________________________________________________________ Thanks for the explaination. But logically i understand why we need the chiller. But why would some reefers put the chiller and MH on a timer ??

Nice tank and equipments. Would have seriously considered if this was posted much earlier...

Finally some enlightenment.thanks. Err, back casing can remove? got to check again. will it attract more dust? the blower that you place is infront of the chiller is it .

the shop directly after the turn beside a scrap metal dealer. the name on the shop is the boss name. only one boss inside. u know he is the boss when u step inside. a rough sketch with dimension will do. he want to get a rough idea of what you want. delivery mostly chargeable lah. he advised u take taxi save cost...lol.

I have been in reading in the threads and im getting some info overload.... hope you guys can clarify some things. Q1- do you switch on the chiller 24/7 and let it runs and allow the compressor to kick in at the preset temp? I have read some switch on the chiller together with their lightings based on a timer set a certain timings. So which are the more common setup and why/? Q2- Whats the specific model for the temperature controller that you guys have purchase to control the chiller? A specific model would help me alot so i can just purchase the item. I have seen eliwell and fox...will they work the same or different models varies in certain settings? Anyone tried with atc800? Q3- I am using a hailea chiller hc500a running on 5x2.5ft tank.Temp set at 26deg. Hailea cant set by dec place and I am fine with that.The hailea seems to kick in quite often at 27.1deg above within less than 45min. The number does not jump around very much and is quite stable but the frequent kicking in may not be economical imo. I read that its due to the ambient temp around the temp probe in the chiller. Will this help if i blow 120mm a fan into the chiller vent...or an external thermostat will solve?thanks. Hope to have some responses.many thanks.

Letting go one 4ft DE lightings Retrofit.54w x 2 .In working condition. Come with 2x white planted tubes. Self collect AMK.FCFS- $130.thanks.

Kelantan lane..just after the turn from jln besar. give him the designs you want..

Maybe he is on a budget.Thats why considered this two. But if have extra cash to spare can consider LEDs. Smaller tank LEds oklah..but if bigger size tanks..LED oso got pros and cons.

i used to have PL and also MH previously.That was years back.Now with T5 so readily available and at attractive price..you should just go for T5 for your 2ft.Compact and many combi to tried out and of course HO.

Impressive.the price looks promising too.