jervismun

I've decided to go T5... 1 major reason is heat... as I will be using back my old Arctica 1/5hp chiller... introducing 500W of MH will stretch my old chiller so badly it will run for hours without stop

I think the corals are real... just that the whole combination looks too clean and sterile... I got a feeling this is a show tank... sorta put up for a short period of time... but again, this might be the Japanese style with Zen approach to things... very different from our style I must say

Good night guys... last pix of the night... see those teeth Now that's gonna be a real Clown Bite

Hey... damn... shouldn't have left those drawings with AquaMarin... haha I'm still learning but most of my "brilliant" ideas were considered impractical in the end Not exactly off topic... coz you may think I'm crazy... I designed the tank to suit my Bubble Master Shall not reveal now Ok a bit of self advertising... my new tank will be delivered this weekend... will start a new tank thread... awaits your supports

Bro Chrislzh Thanks for getting your friend to bring in some nice US Zoos. I am interested in the Light Blue Zoas... but really can't commit as I can't visualize how it looks like. If you don't mind, do contact me once the Zoos are in your tank, I don't mind paying a little bit more, but at least I get what I see. Just let me know... even if I can't afford it... at least can drool lah Coz very seldom see "drooling" grade Zoas nowadays

Ic... wow another BM direct from Germany... so now all together already 4 known BM owners I hope I will not be the last to fire-up Aiya your BM will be up and running immediately as it has been running smoothly for 2 to 3 weeks now... must get good deal lah How come AM didn't offer me the used unit I don't mind really

Bro Ozy... just want to check if you are staying in Singapore or elsewhere? Saw that piece of BM being packed inside a DHL Jumbo box Good choice btw... you will never regret it!

I have no idea... looks like a square footprint to me... oh this tank is connected to the sea... about 100 yards away

Oh yeah... thanks bro for the confidence... but probably won't happen as I will turn it into a FOWLR in 2 weeks time... will unhook the chiller (run with minimal lighting and equipments). Expect water temperature to be around 29ºC most of the time... so not expecting much coral growth. WILL REMOVE ALL CORALS FROM PERCULA 90 except those hitchiker featherduster worms and shrooms

So sorry to hear that bro... can show me a close up pix of your overflow area? Is there anything you can do to rectify the problem?

Emm... I've seen an entire colony grow on glass reaching to the overflow area... in bro Happy's tank! His GSP's tentacles are so long... doesn't look like GSP anymore... more like "lalang" grass

Well actually... not really. The spot the Orange Yumas are sittting used to be a palm-size colony of GSP, I moved it to the sand bed 2 months ago... only recently new polyps grew out of the LR... 2 small spots actually Give it 3 years... it will cover the entire area

I know... everything seems so balance here... and you notice there's no large fish? The focus is on the corals instead of fishes... true Japanese style

Corals been spreading all over the LR... here's a new colony of GSP

My Merulina... very slow growth The newly acquired Red Spotted Mushroom is still settling down... expect them to open bigger in a week time From this pix, you can tell how desperate I am in fighting the battle with algae growth Once I transfered my corals to the new tank, I will slowly do water change using DI water only... no more tap water

Seldom featured BE Anthias... this specimen is slowly morphing into a male

Tank arriving this Saturday (hope there's no delay) Here's a very nice pix I picked up from ReefCentral, a Japanese tank... drool

Oh I saw you asking bro Melvyn Tan about keeping SPS using T5 only... well I am also in the process of setting up my new second tank, a 4 footer (will be up this weekend) for my office. I am planning to use ATI HO T5 (at least 8 tubes) to keep SPS. Although there are some successful reefers keeping healthy SPS using T5 such as Danano, MH is a much more tested, preferred and "safe" lighting option when it comes to SPS. As always, there are pros and cons to everything... I don't see T5 as consuming a lot lesser power compared to MH, take bro Melvyn Tan's tank for example, his 8 x 54W consumes 432W. A MH + T5 setup probably consume a little bit more than 600W. So the difference is not too great. However, T5 produces much lesser heat and doesn't transmit excessive heat to the tank water beneath it. That will result in lesser load to your chiller. Chiller is one of the most major power hungry monster in the entire setup and every step should be taken to lighten its load. So the real pro comes from savings from the chiller (comparing MH to T5). Remember, T5 doesn't give you "shimmering effect" on the floor bed. If I am to go back to MH one day... it is for this reason alone

Personally, I don't necessarily see 20+ years as a MUST LISTEN as the aquarium technology has been moving pretty fast... the older they are... the more stubborn they can be (sometimes)... swear by their old ways of doing things. But since they also do mega projects, then you can rest assured they will not screw up your tank project... I'm quite surprise they suggest only 2 x 150W as most big time LFS (especially those who handle mega projects) always recommend excessively Personally, I think 2 MH spread across 4ft doesn't allow sufficient coverage. Again, it depends on your rockscaping. If you plan to have 2 mountains, then 1 MH on top of each mountain may provide a dramatic and interesting effect. Other than that, you may get blind spots especially towards the edges. Of course you can lift your MH higher to achieve a broader coverage but that will weaken your "firepower". Although I am not a MH expert (or lighting expert), I will do the following configurations if I am to illuminate my 4ft SPS tank: 1) 3 x 150W evenly spaced to achieve 100% coverage, around 7 to 8 inches from water surface to make up for the lack of "firepower". 24" + 8" = 32" 2) 2 x 250W but lifted higher to achieve better coverage, probably 10 to 12 inches from water surface. 24" + 12" = 36" Both consumes about the same amount of energy... so both are good in my opinion. Option 2 has a slight advantage as it is further away from the water surface (MH transmit a lot of heat vertically downwards and can dramatically heat up your water by 3 to 4ºC at its peak). Don't forget to add some HO T5 also (dimmable will be nice) using both Blue and Actinic tubes. Hope this helps

Yeah you are sick bro At least my Black Tips will not consume those pretty babes... just caress them But your Pirahnas

Some very nice Anthias at AM... nice and healthy looking Pair Pistol Shrimp with Goby... Oh some black Bristle Stars too!!!

The same Cup Coral (Satellite Dish) in SPS photographic style

Cup Coral opening more than ever... especially these few days... been with me for around 2 months now Tremendous growth on the sides... can see new mouths forming I hope the tentacles will continue to grow longer as I've seen some really impressive extension in some reefers' tanks

Since WOW server is down today for maintenance... I'll have plenty of time to do a major pictorial update tonight I'll start with my Red Gonio... been with me for 4 months now... very small specimen when I bought it (about the size of a golf ball)... notice the new growth on the side of the rock? The Gonio came attached to a piece of LR Hopefully by end of the year... they will cover the entire rock Notice also the beautiful Coralline Algae growth on top of the Red Gonio? Thanks to Caribsea AragaMilk and Purple Up (refer to product review by bro Altantis, available at RD)

Yeah she's quite cute... unfortunately I chosen a female specimen (can't differentiate when I started reefing) A male specimen will look even more impressive with bolder fins This Mandarin is one of my longest fish... outlasting my 2 Chromis and 2 Skunk Clowns