jervismun

It's a great idea actually... but make sure the timer doesn't on/off the pumps too many times... the last time I read, the Tunze Stream 6060 (non controllable) only allows not more than 24 times a day. So if your timer on/off the pumps more than once an hour... the chances are... they might get spoilt a lot faster If you hubby is interested to find out more... it has something to do with the current used... one using AC the other DC... if I am not wrong.

Nah no flaming... all your above comments are valid and definitely something that Resun should look at when they are to design the next generation... both of you are very observant

You can actually place the PO4 media into a stocking and place it inside your canister filter (latest stage). That can also do the job... without all the piping... and heat from yet another feed pump. If you wanna do that, go for a PO4 that is a bit coarser and one that comes with the assurance of "no leaching" in the long run.

Why leh? Your hubby only likes Tunze?

Well... that's a very possible scenario bro Godzilla... definitely more heat transfer as MH is known to do that... but for my case, I will be combining/replacing some of the pumps in my tank as early as next week... by saving up to 100W worth of 24/7 pump consumption... I believe that will counter the increment. Bottomline is... yes my chiller will work harder no doubt... that's part of the hobby I guess

Oh dear... now where's my tail... I can't find it anywhere... did I left it in the Anemone? Steve... how many times do I have to tell you...

Based on my experience with Chaetomorpha... a 18W (if placed not too high above) can just sustain their growth... sufficient flow will avoid rotting... basically that's all needed... and of course... it depends on the nutrients level in your tank. A tank with high PO4 and NO3 will see their Chaeto grow faster... but in the event of depleted nutrients... your Chaeto will either stop growing or slowly die off The latter was the fate of my 1.5ft by 1.5ft worth of Chaeto... they simply stop growing anymore

This thread is getting a little out of hand... Good that through here we do know more about individual reefers and where we stand... and I really bro Kelstorm for his boycott of sharksfin related dishes... in my case it will be rude to refuse a bowl of sharksfin offered by a fellow business partner or a client... that's why I will opt for man-made fins whenever possible... coz it doesn't matter in the end... what matters is the culture and respect that comes with that dish... that's the reason why Disneyland Hong Kong can't take this dish off their menu even with heated protests

That lens 4-digit lah Lowered my Grotech Photon Plus light fixture by 3" this morning... making it 6" from water surface right now... transferring a significant amount of heat into the water I suppose... but no choice lah

Cannot as the specimen is quite deep inside... I need a even more powerful macro lens to achieve that Please don't suggest I go that direction Here's a macro just as stunning... specially for you sis... red red LAVA!!!

Ok will try to take a full shot of my clam tomorrow

You can consider the Sentosa IR too... I hope you don't get too offended here... keeping Sharks is always a very sensitive subject in most forums All the best to you and your Black Tips

Sis Waner, actually that patch is grey in colour (looked purple under my lighting)... I suspect it is a form of discolouration But the good news is the green is coming back... I expect that patch to be gone within weeks Actually it has baby blue polyps which can't be seen in the pix

It's not that bro Kenneth... just that there seems to be not much response... but having said that... here's another SPS pix Montipora Palawanesis... quite rare and the green is getting more and more intense

That Xenia from bro Fishtalk? Don't you wanna move it up or back? So that you can have all the colours on your sandbed

Yupe

Maybe here's sorta good news for Shark lovers... Nowadays, most Chinese restaurants serve fake sharksfin anyway... especially those affordable packages... in Malaysia, 8 out of 10 CNY dinners serve fake fins nowdays... some call it agar-agar... some call it Japanese sharksfin (those golden colour used in Sushi). Looking at the trend... in a year or two... unless you are filthy rich... you will have difficulty tasting real sharksfin anyway But that doesn't mean that Sharks are safe... it's just that... we can't pay what the China Chinese can pay anymore

It's a Maxima

Emm... ok this will surely create some interests, non?

I can't find DT's product anymore... any idea where I can get hold of a good bottle?

Yeah that's what I thought originally... but I've also read articles that contradict this belief Bro you mind share with us where you get this information from? A web link will do just fine

Oh that's probably ich... and they are harmful. Do not take them too lightly although it's true that they come and go... and some specimens are known to be somewhat immune to such attack after a while... For me, if I have this problem... I will do the following: 1) Feed them well in a wide variety of good food. Boost their immune system and seaweed is generally good to help boost Tang's immune system. Also, you can consider feeding them more, but that is if you are confident enough that the extra feeding will not affect water quality. 2) Do partial water change, but slowly. Avoid large amount of water changed within a day as it will add additional stress to the infected fishes. 3) You might wanna consider running a UV Sterilizer, although may not be able to remove those ich from your fishes, at least it will reduce the possibility of another outbreak, which will usually happen 2 weeks later 4) Do not stress your fish further, try not to put your hands in the tank too frequent. Minimize interference. 5) Do not introduce any new fishes. As it is most likely the cause for such outbreak in the first place. 6) Check all your major parameters, namely Sg, ph, KH, NO3, NO2 and NH4 as all these can add major stress to the infected fishes if left to stray away from the acceptable range. 7) Of course, if you can catch the infected fish... you can consider treating them in a separate tank (water not linked to the main tank please)... and NO MEDICATION INSIDE YOUR MAIN TANK!!! And no, I don't think corals will bring ich along... All the best to your bro!

Yes... equipments... they can release a lot of heat especially those high power consumption pumps... lighting too. The general guide is... the higher the power consumption... the more heat it will generate A chiller will be the ultimate answer to your problem as the issue now is not just to cool down the water, but to maintain at a marginal range. A functional chiller will be able to sustain a temperature within a 1ºC range, say... 27ºC to 28ºC. Now that's optimum as no matter what's ur un-aircon room temperature... the tank water will always remain within that range. A fan will not allow your fishes/corals that kinda comfort... however, using a timer and activate the fan during day time (or lighting hours) will help in the short term. Hope this helps!

More SPS... hey am I the only SPS keeper (left) in SRC?