jervismun

I am so confused... some say Gonio, some say Alveo... Since the specimen is not opening well anyway, I guess no harm treat is as Alveo, I will move it to a position with lower current flow tonight.

Err... what's the difference between actinic blue and blue light? Em... if you are going for tube brands made for aquarium use, they are all actinic blue, IMO.

Oh ok... thanks for the ID, will read more on it... I might wanna go look for more... they are so pretty

Here's a FTS, 10 minutes after running MH. Notice the flying shrimp on top? My tank is a lot more colourful than before... but of course there are a lot of room for improvements... I am trying to fill up the top portion. The base on top is actually quite flat, so what u guys suggest? Don't suggest SPS pls

You mean the TR16? I will try to sell my old Teco (3 months old). I will not upgrade my tank anytime soon, so is the TR20 a bit overkill for my tank? And what's the recommended flow?

Bro... how's things? How's your Yumas doing?

Bro, did u discuss ur high NO3 with Seet/Henry? Perhaps you wanna consider using Chemical to bring the NO3 down. Are you still interested in a AM Nitratreductor 400? I heard from CH stock will come in the next few days

Bought the Mushroom from Ah Pek. What's the name of this Mushroom?

Your tank looks great... I don't think pumping in more $$$ will improve it significantly... unless you are talking about a new tank in a much grander scale

This is another piece of coral I'm concern of... hasn't been fully opened since day 1. I can see tiny little tentacles emerging from the skeleton, but no sign of it fully inflated... luckily the bright orange colour has not fade Placement wise, I think this specimen is being placed well on the sand bed.

This piece of Green Gonio is not opening... partly my fault... I have yet to find it a new location in the tank. My Cleaner Shrimps love hanging around it, and everytime my shrimps landed on them, they will retract. And it happens all the time... so I must move this specimen to the left side of the tank (currently occupied by my deadly Bubble)... the shrimps do not hang out on the left side of the tank

Bro Jacobus... here's how the Red Gonio looks like under actinic blue. Under my MH, it will look slightly less red, but definitely not tan as shown in my previous pix. I notice the specimen is more readily to stretch out its tentacles now... compared to 2 days ago ... so I think I can relax now coz I got a feeling this specimen can make it I fed it Cyclopeeze 2 days ago and all the tentacles reacted promptly to the feeding... although I've been saying Reefroid is a more superior product, when it comes to feeding... variety is good, and Reefroid is good coz it's very very fine, perfect for my Blue Gorgonia... but when it comes to Gonio, I think they prefer something a little more bite-size

Ok... nice nice pictures coming ur way... here's my Elegance (after 2 hours of actinic light)... I think this piece will make it Experience reefers, do I need to further push the skeleton into the sand bed? I seldom see Elegance with exposed skeleton or the specimen will open further? I notice my current is a little too strong now, will fix it soon.

Bro are u still running the TR20? Just relying on a single chiller for your tank? I am thinking of getting a TR20 for my 3ft tank (no sump). Here's a rough spec: 1. 75 US Gallon tank 2. 2 x 150W MH running 6 hours a day 3. Pumps: • Sicce Multi 2500 l/h • Sicce Multi 1300 l/h • Sicce Multi 800 l/h • Aqua Medic PH 2000 (Skimmer) • Tunze Stream 6000 • Tunze Turbelle 1600/2 (Filter) Appreciate your help. I will be running the Sicce Multi 2500 l/h for the chiller. From the tank --> Chiller (can elevate to reduce head loss) --> Tank via split outlet with duck beaks.

Emm... lesser Ich already... but I am too optimistic that they will just disappear like that How come I always have crisis? Almost once every week? Or I am the only one that reports every single detail of my tank Actually it can quite boring lor... reading a thread full of problems... always asking for help

I am planning to get a Teco TR20 vs. Arctica 1/5hp model. Anyone have experiences in both chillers? Price wise, they are the same, but the Arctica model is much smaller (in hp) compared to TR20

I am running a 3ft tank (without sump), with a series of pumps and 2 150W MH. Would like to bring water temperature down to 27ºC. Is this a good chiller? How does it fare compared to Arctica chillers?

Wah u have exquisite tastes

I just leave mine on the floor bed (those that comes with tiny rocks) for the time being. Once they get knock around or flying all over the place, I will PM u for more details on how to glue them together

Down the toilet bowl!!! KILL KILL KILL!!! You don't keep something like that as pet

No not running any UV coz it will also destroy the beneficial bacteria I've been adding using System Reef-resh... after talking to my usual LFS, there are 2 options: 1. To catch the infected fish out and cure them in a separate tank 2. To let the fish fight for its own life... if it happens , just remove it from the tank asap. Other methods like dosing the main tank will do more harm than good to the entire system. Preventive steps like UV and Ozone should be taken earlier, not now I will go for option 2, I will let the 2 Tangs fight for their lives. I heard a lot of Tangs survived and became stronger after that. I know it sounds cruel, but there isn't a way to do it without messing the tank, which in turn will add more stress to the remaining fishes and corals. For me... it's always the forest... I shouldn't jeopardize the entire forest just because of 2 trees At least they are still feeding well... not as "pig" as before... but still eating. Will get them something more appetizing. Another newbie mistake I made along the way... "Dear journal, I need a Q tank"...

I "kena" White Spots attack!!! My Tangs... yes my Chevron Tang is also affected!!! I am now feeding them food with Garlic but I don't think that can get rid of the WS... what can I do? I may drop by AM later to look for a cure... a cure that will not affect my corals and other fishes

After the drop you still purchase?... em if not what to do right? Can't remember how much leh... aiya in the region of $5 one lah... so ugly I don't think reefers will pay $10+ for it

The red will become more striking under actinic, the pix I posted earlier was a bit distorted (in terms of colour), notice the background is greenish? My camera sometimes doesn't capture well under my MH.

So confirm your tank is still cycling... just to make things easier to understand Your tank is now at the Nitrite stage. Ammonia ---> Nitrite ---> Nitrate ---> Nitrogen Nitrite shouldn't be too hard to get rid. Don't worry, your tank is cycling normally... the only problem is your fishes. They shouldn't be in there at this moment... are they exquisite/expensive specimens? Coz if they are, then it will be such a waste to see them perish... if they are $1 Chromis... then don't take them out, the extra stress will likely to kill them anyway. Bearing in mind that, if your fishes can go through this stage, they will become super strong in the future! Don't worry, let the tank continue the cycle. When was the last time you added in Nitrifying Bacteria (bottle/tables)? If not, quickly go get a bottle coz you need to boost the amount of bacteria fast. Once there are sufficient amount of bacterias (aerobic) residing in ur live rocks, bio balls, biohome, etc. They will convert Nitrite to Nitrate in no time... Once you detect low Nitrite, you can start changing 30% to 40% of the water. Make sure you have a good salt mix. Or else the Bacterias will get wipe-out and start all over again. Getting rid of Nitrate is a little more tricky, IMO although they are less toxic. We shall talk again once you reach that stage