jervismun

Let me try out the product lah... coz my Ca yesterday is 340!!! I also bought PURPLE UP by Caribsea also... if these 2 products works well... I can forget about the CR for the time being coz I really running out of space now

Bro what's your Calcium level? Are you just relying on ArgoMilk for replenishing Calcium? Hehe... you BAD INFLUENCE lor... I bought a bottle to try out

Bad news... was at RD just now... may have to plan further before buying the Deltec CR coz without a sump... I have difficulty finding the right spot for the CR. Originally planned to put it inside the small cabinet beneath my tank... then realized that the flow may not be strong enough to create enough pressure the push the water back to the main tank... and the smallest model is not really a hang-on unit Might drop by IKEA this weekend and try to find a narrow and tall stool-like table to place the CR same level as my main tank... just like my NR

Haha bro Altantis... it's such as nice way to put it... so next time... you see some gangters in Chinatown "play catching" and "hide and seek"... you join in lah

Reminder to all winners... pls PM me your mailing address and full name... so far I only received one leh... my figurines too cheapo is it?

Thanks bro for your advice... I think if we really wanna slack and relax... then have to be very conservative when it comes to stocking LS... but most of us tend to squeeze in as many as we could I am still trying to make more room

Haha... Vaseline so old fashion... use K-W Jello lah

Haha... I was comparing to those huge huge SPS tanks around... they don't change water that often I believe... but for my setup... I don't think I can stretch my water change too long... can see the clarity of the water somehow lost So for me... twice monthly is already very acceptable

Very nice number Maybe I shall wait for my 8888... shouldn't be too hard for me

Hehe... thanks! Well... my tank is way too "young" to be able to give you a clear indication... due to my Anemone incident, I've changed water much more frequent lately... what I'm planning to do now is to change 10% water every 2 weeks. I'm using Marine Environment and Aqua Medic Reefsalt. How often do you change now? I think once a month is not very advisable for small tanks like us... unless we have top-notch equipments

Wow... NO3 and KH at optimum level... what product r u using to increase kH? I've been trying several products and still can't find a reliable source. You can try RD, they carry their own DIY RO/DI (check their website for price). Yes, a lot of bros connect it permanent in one of the taps... but it can also be removed, just more work to be done. Some more advanced reefer will auto top-up direct from tap via RO/DI unit but u need some sorta computer system to allow for that to happen.

Rowaphos claims to remove Phosphat, Silicate and Arsenic... how effective can it removes Silicate?

Hi bro... I'm new... and SRC is my life Yeah office politics... haiz... luckily my office too small... no room for politic-king

Hahaha... love the spirit!

I think your explaination is correct (IMO)... if the corals/plants do not require sunlight for food generation (photosynthesis)... there's actually no incentive/benefit for them to feed at that particular timing. From what I gather, planktons are more active at night and also there are a lot of spawning activities happening under moonlight... so your SPS can have a better feast at night The Polyp Lab System Reef-resh I am using... 1 of the 4 bottles is actually Coral Food. They strongly recommend dosing in the dark.

Who can blaim you... dolls are so boring... emm... wait... I think I used to have a Barbie when I was very young

Hehe... it's me again... My 3 cents 1) I heard 400+ is ideal but according to a LFS, it can be quite hard to reach to that level without the use of an Ozonizer. 2) Water temperature affects ORP readings. Cooler water contains more oxygen. 3) A efficient protein skimmer is a good source of dissolved oxygen. 4) NR1000 (Nitrate Reductor using Bioballs) will bring ORP down, that's why I adjusted mine a little to slow the flow. Don't think it will affect too much as my Protein Skimmer (running using PH2500) can easily replenish the dissolved oxygen consumed by the NR1000. 5) Adding an Ozonizer can raise ORP 6) Lots of water surface movement (gas exchange) can increase ORP 7) Lots of current (usage of wavemaker) can also increase the overall tank water ORP (to ensure more evenly distributed dissolved oxygen). Hehe... it's 7 cents actually

Hi both bros According to a LFS (and a bit of research on that matter)... actually the sea water (deep down) is cooler in the day than at night. This is due to more wind activities and exchange of heat between the water and the environment. Shallow water is opposite. So we can better mimic nature if we are to set our temperature 1ºC to 1.5ºC higher during day time. However, this doesn't makes much sense to reefers in this region as we will end up paying a very hefty energy bill. And yes, more kick-in = higher energy consumption = faster wear/tear for the chiller. That's the reason why, I set mine to 1.5ºC instead of 1ºC (Teco thermostat). Kicking in 5 times a day is very efficient already... but running 2 1/2 hours in a stretch is not. So I still think my chiller is unpowered. Perhaps a 1/5hp or 1/4hp Arctica (with Platinum coil) can chill my 75 US gallon within 35 - 45 mins (which is highly possible) instead of 150 mins. But on the other hand... I will also have to keep into account a 1/5hp Arctica consumes more than just 225W (my current Teco). So I don't expect the upgrade can save much electricity in the end... just make my study room more bearable at times... imagine me sitting in front of the computer... the chiller which is less than 6 ft away running from 8pm to 10.30pm Sauna leh! I think it's good practice to avoid locating probes too near powerheads/pumps. All my probes are showing very consistent readings (coz I put them in a dedicated chamber away from pumps and the water flow is constantly moderate). That chamber is actually my last chamber before the water is being return to the main tank using only a Aquabee 1000, so the water is pretty clean (without much particles) and pretty aerated as most of the water that pass thru the IOS will be sucked into the Protein Skimmer (PH2500 pump). That's why my Redox is quite high... around 325 to 350mV.

Emm... let me go back and try set one of my pumps to run continuously... most probably what I will do is to set the timer to on at 00:00 off at 00:00... see if it will overide the system. Or have you already tried that bro Lyz77? If yes, do report to Italy and ask them why why why?!? Using Water Level Sensor to detect tank leak? Emm... gonna involve 2 sensors I think. It can be done... I've yet to try that out.

Yupe... I can still remember the time when you put a small piece on top of your tank... I think the tremendous growth has to do with its positioning... being on top... getting a lot of nutrients and food from feeding Another thing I notice about GSP... the stronger the flow, the longer the tentacles... I saw bro Happy's GSP... he placed it near his giant overflow compartment... the tentacles are so so long... it doesn't look like GSP... serious... I even asked him what the grass looking coral is?

Wow! Nice Anemone and Pair Clown Ok here's what I think: 1) Your NO3 a tad high... although nothing to do with your current problem... try to bring it down to <10ppm 2) dKH also a tad low 3) Magnesium is nice!!! Haiz... mine very sad lor... that's why I need a CR soon. 4) If you are using TAP WATER (just like me, although I used domestic water filter)... dun thing changing water regularly will help much... coz in the process we are introducing back the depleted nutrients and silicate... to feed the algaes 5) Some Silicate removing media is good... I am also planning to run some... at least to remove the silicate from the freshwater bucket (for top up and salt mixing). Any particular brand to go for? IS it healthy to run it 24/7 in the main tank just like Rowaphos/Activated Carbon? Bros with experience... appreciate your help and recommendations.

Haha... fortunately nope

That was before he bought his chiller (relying on an Ice Probe)... yeah things can be quite tough at 29ºC... probably only Zoos will bloom well under such warmth

Agree with bro Naka... if your prata has not bloom ever since you introduced into your tank... the fundamental requirements may be way-off... do check all your parameters coz your problem may be more serious than just bleaching.

Thanks bro... I will check with RD what's the best lubricant to apply to the ring... em... could it be something I already owned inside one of my bedroom drawers?