jervismun

Yeah it's like the New York twin towers actually... very slim indeed... well you can build a chamber and use your JBJ also Just get a suitable pump... Eheim also produces very small pumps.

Also the thrill of putting your hand inside chilled water... I like the feeling... very refreshing

DI water only... will consider later if a KR is required... already eyeing on a cool unit I will try to measure the volume of the chamber so that I can do markings on the glass container

Emm... you do have a point there... doesn't allow me to change more than 5% water... will check with my tank maker again... probably can convert this into a stand-by outlet for any gravity feed equipments in the future

Finally... my DI water filter All connected and ready to use... this is my pantry wall (converted from a bathroom)... about 5 to 7 ft away from my tank

Last piping pix of the day... my return outlet... the tank maker purposely sourced for a very dark grey piece to blend in with the black background better... partly my idea also

Showing the DI water top-up station on the left... running an Aquabee 300 Controlled by Aquatronica

3rd round of fixing... finally the sump is complete!!! Here's how the sump's overflow outlet looks like... the PVC pipe that runs across the sump (middle portion) is connected to the DI water top-up station Love the Bioballs... make the sump looks more like a sump Will decide 2 months later whether to remove the bioballs, replace it with some other media or retain them.

Bro you are so lucky to get so much help from experienced bros here... yes read more... at least now you know what's a QT Let me reply you since the above was your reply to me... 1) Yes, it's important to admit that. After many months of learning... I still consider myself at the intermediate level... so there's really no need to rush to the expert level... relax and enjoy the hobby too. However, since you have so much more to learn, I suggest you stop adding new LS to your tank. 2) Despite success reported by some bros without testing the pH of the tank... I suggest you get some Salifert test kits (those crucial ones). This is a part of learning... now how can you learn when you do not know what is the condition of your own tank? Actually you do not need to wait till the tank is matured to add new fishes, it may take months if not years... as long as you are confident of your parameters, you can add some hardy fishes slowly. I think the keywords are CONFIDENCE and RESPONSIBILITY. 3) FOWLR is good for learning... try to give away your Anemone, post it under Pasar Malam or SWOP section. Hopefully, a reefer will adopt the Anemone from you. Well... you don't expect an inferior car manufacturer to warn you about the car's lack of safety features

Quite unlikely the filter that originally came with the Juwel tank was not done properly... but again that was so many years ago Will give this idea a "skip" this round as I believe what I have in place this time round is sufficient in solving dead zones and trapped detritus problems. Thanks bro Minireef and bro Soul... at least we've discussed this issue and I will not regret not applying it About young men taking ######...

Hi bro Yeah I understand your difficulty also... a complete set of reliable Salifert test kits can cost up to $200. Ok perhaps you just need to focus on the following for the time being. 1) Salinity 2) Temperature 3) pH 5) Ammonia The rest are crucial also... but at least you should know your pH (day and night readings) and Ammonia as it is highly toxic. Another advice... if your Anemone shows sign of deterioration... remove it from your tank immediately. Anemone is hard to keep (for a new tank with your equipments) and they are HIGHLY TOXIC once they die and decay... so be extra careful. So many many many reefers experienced total TANK CRASH with dying Anemones... so you must be careful. Try to avoid Anemone in the future... they are nice to see... but the risk is way too high and I don't think you are ready to handle a TANK CRASH. And what do you do if the water parameter u tested is not optimum? Improve on it... that's the only way you can keep your fishes happy... come to think of it... without a chiller to maintain water temperature below 29ºC... forget about corals. They will not do well in the long run Remember... this hobby comes in various stages... looking at your setup and equipments... you belong to the beginner stage... therefore avoid expert level fishes and corals... trust me... they will "not-make-it"... there's no such thing as "try try" in this hobby

I am still experimenting with most of the features... some may work well... some may not work well... expected really... so do follow my thread closely in order to learn more about them (for example the Flushing System). If you have more queries... just ask Don't be shy We are all here to share (and to show off a bit lah )

Firstly, water condition. How long have you been running the tank? I suspect you are using either dead rocks or uncured live rocks... How about these parameters? 1) Salinity 2) Temperature (min & max) 3) pH 4) Alkalinity 5) Ammonia 6) Nitrite 7) Nitrate Is it crucial for any new tank to test the aboves and make sure all 7 of them are at optimum level before introducing any fish or corals. There's no fix time needed for the cycle, some may take days, some weeks, some months... very much depending on the state of the live rocks (and sand bed) the time you introduced into your tank. One thing to remember... fishes don't usually die in a tank mysteriously... in order to learn from the hobby... you need to find out the reason/s... only then can you sustain the hobby in the long run as constant fish/corals replenishment is both harmful to the environment and the wallet. All the best! Don't worry... we will be with you along the way

Healthy looking Cup Coral there... I have a piece of similar colouration and size

Nice panaromic tank... I always wanted a long tank... I think your equipment list is alright (especially the skimmer, good choice)... but without a chiller you may be restricted to keeping "very hardy" corals and "very hardy" inverts. Other than that... I think everything seems fine... even the 2 HO T5 tubes will do the job since your tank is quite shallow. More pix!!!

I know... $90 for a plate? Damn... mine costs $9.90 Well... it's also a good chance to polish Singapore's image... so "small money don't go out, big money won't come in". As long as we are SAFE & SOUND by the end of next week... don't really care much about money spent

Welcome to the club... So what shall we call it officially? Anti-Shrimp Society? or Global War Against Shrimps?

Yeah... dip it into vinegar for a while... Tunze 6060 is quite good... but 6080 for extra power. Or you can use 2 pieces of 6060. Controllable units are good but more costly.

Yes you are invited Note: Since you so thick-skin

The pump connected to the Flushing System will draw water from the chamber where chilled water is being released. The Flushing System will share the same pump as the Main Return. It's hard to reach behind live rocks especially if you have limited space between the rocks and the back glass panel... say 2 inches. I think the Flushing System will work better than using a Tunze Stream constantly blowing the back of the tank (like what I'm doing now in my current tank).

Whatever it is... don't you ever EVER ever add medication straight into the main tank... disaster!!!

Let's start an Anti-Shrimp Club

I've experienced and survived a RBT Anemone chopped to slices by my Tunze... I removed all the chopped parts... did water change and more water change for the next 3 weeks. Run the protein skimmer full force. Add extra activated carbon. And use chemical (on as last resort) to control ammonia. I was very lucky then... not a single casualty in the tank. All the best to you bro. Je®vis

Not too sure about Seio... but for sure Tunze is a reliable piece of equipment worth investing

Very logical explanation... I will bear that in mind too