jervismun

Hi bro Nakazoru... I hope I am not overdoing it Coz cycling can be a very simple process also... depending on individuals I will say... A school for newbies? Well... I hope my step-by-step postings are clear enough... that's why I am doing this... I really hope there is such a thread when I first started... I can remember how lost I was I think most importantly is NOT to instruct reefers what to do... let them discover themselves... as there are not definite RIGHTs and WRONGs in this hobby

Time to add in the AquaMedic Biobacter (bateria culture)... lovely

I own a reefpack 500 and it is true... it's mechanical filter is pretty impressive for its size... do consider that, that may save you a lot of piping work as you can have everything contained within the main tank... period. And you will also find the water top-up very handy. Definitely worth considering if you want a fuss free, accident-free setup. IMO, that product is worth every single cent... and unfortunately I am not selling my set

The texture is actually quite pretty... should've cover the entire sand bed with this product (if cost is not an issue) Sprinkle a thin layer on top of my shell bed... that will allow the beneficial bacterias to spread across... quickly Hopefully, the decaying market shrimps will be able to create sufficient amount of ammonia to keep them from hunger I purposely chose smaller shrimps as they decay at a faster rate Will start to monitor Ammonia and Nitrite in 2 days time... ROT BABY ROT!!! Note: The idea of creating food for bacterias should be practice in moderation... avoid flooding your tank with too much decaying seafood... that will create too much of a disaster... can get out of control Right now... those few little shrimps are foul enough to be detected by my nose even with the cabinet doors closed

Time to add a pack of Live Sand (Aragonite) too Note: Before you buy any Live Sand product, check for expiry date... mine expires Dec 07

Good morning!!! Time to add in the defrosted baby market shrimp... damn the smell is heavenly... placed them in the sump compartment so that I can monitor them easily and allow me to remove them if necessary Let the CYCLE BEGINS!!!

In order for your refugium to work properly... it needs to be sizable. Also depending on your stocking level... I think a 4 ft tank should have at least a 2ft refugium... anything smaller will be insignificant. Refugium is not only a good way to export undesirable nutrients... it is also a good way to learn more about macroalgaes... they can be extremely beautiful too Refugium also help to stabilize pH (reduce day/night fluctuation) if the refugium lighting is turn on in opposite of main tank lighting period. It is a great place to cultivate pods for your fishes and corals. However, some macroalgaes tend to go asexual (sexually active) after a while... so contant trimming is required... or else... there will be a posibility of the macros releasing toxins into the water column. It's a nice to have... and I am planning 1 too

yupe... the first pix... confirm not reef safe

No idea... perhaps the flow is different... slow flow offers better filtration capability... if you really encounter problem with the unit... bring it back to AM... I'm sure they will honour it and help you on this small issue... that's why I only buy from shops... at least you know where to FIND them

AquaMedic Biobacter... will add tomorrow together with the market shrimps Now how am I gonna break the glass vial Am I suppose to chop its neck using the supplied metal piece?

Yes bro... the point of no return Defrosting some frozen baby shrimp... will add a few pieces into the main tank (shell bed) tomorrow morning to kick-start the Nitrogen Cycle Expecting the cured live rock (cured for 3 weeks now) to arrive this Thursday

Bro... be it refractometer or hydrometer... raising the salinity slightly... say to 1.023 (refractormeter reading)... in case you hydrometer reading of 1.018 is the correct one.

Haha... wait till all of them open up BIG BIG Can be both annoying and damaging to its non-compatible neighbours Stock moderately You do know Hammers can mix well with Torch and Frogspawn... don't you? Coz Frogspawns can be very pretty too

Yes DI water is known to lower kH and pH... but ME Salt is known for slightly lower kH, as experienced at home using tap water (was )

My conclusion: 1) DI water is definitely the way to go... it is crucial to get the water condition right at the very beginning than to expect our FR filled with expensive Rowaphos to do the job later 2) Marine Environment salt is close to perfect. The Mg and Ca balance is simply stunning... the only set back is the lower than expected kH. I guess... ME is good enough for day-to-day use as it is truly a value for money salt mix. Important note: Sg 1.023, Temperature 28ºC, entirely new mix using DI water... ran for 2 days.

A bro asked me about the benefits of using DI water... well... since this is not a new product... I shall let the product packaging speaks for itself... bought this unit from AquaMarin.

Now... let's unveil the POWER of using DI WATER Phosphate = 0 mg/L (as expected) Nitrate = 0.2 mg/L (Salifert side reading... actually as good as zero) Conclusion coming up...

Fourthly, Calcium... less expensive to raise/maintain compared to Magnesium... Salifert showing a stunning reading of 475ppm

Alright... I've put the Marine Environment salt to the test... and here are my findings... will do a conclusion later Firstly, the kH is only 4ºkH... very low as a 8ºkH is needed to keep fishes and corals happy... however, buffing up is not an issue as it is both easy and not costly... furthermore a Calcium Reactor will take care of that. Secondly, pH is decently alright at 7.9... this is a reflection of the low kH. Thirdly, Magnesium. This is the most important factor as raising/maintaining Mg is a very expensive affair... my Salifert shows 1380!!! Perfect... almost Important note: Sg 1.023, Temperature 28ºC, entirely new mix using DI water... ran for 2 days.

Bro Colinsoon... inconsistency in readings is an indication that either the main tank or sump contains pocket of water with poor circulation... supposedly... both should give you similar reading as they are within the same system... do find out why

Oh... let me test it now... damn gotto off the Red Dragon... it will blow my hydrometer to pieces Readings are consistent bro Colinsoon... Now temperature: Tank water: 28ºC (using hydrometer) Sump cabinet: 27.7ºC Room temperature: 26.1ºC Air-con setting: 24ºC Humidity: Sump cabinet: 62% Room: 61% Will continue to monitor it although not so critical a piece of information...

Now... time to add in the magic potion... Marine Environment's secret recipe that made all the difference

Haha... as predicted... UPDATEZ!!! Very happy by the my accurate salt mix Coz I didn't wait for the salt to be fully dissolved before I left last Saturday... this morning... salinity reading 1.023 Not too bad for a start although a slightly higher salinity is more desired (for me). A classic hydrometer will do the job fine for the time being... will get a more accurate reading once I transfer my Aquatronica over

Perhaps a little more info of the CR will help

Ok guys... after 2 days... without any positive response... I have decided to keep the tank... Hehe... at least now I can tell my CFO... no one wants my tank... therefore I shall continue keeping 2 tanks Thanks bros for your time and support