Cedric

Hi, you can get the laguna pump 5 at Lor Harlus farm or Superstar.

Laguana Pump 5 (made in Italy)consumes 55watt for 4850l/hr. I think that is a very efficient pump. I recommend it to all my friends.

You can use the UGF plates under 6" of C1 sand and do a plenum system instead. Its just as good as dsb!

Hi Limpc, I cannot tell you how effective my idea is at removing nitrate coz I am running a aquamedic denitrator as well. My reason for doing that is more to stablize my pH swing than nutrient export. However, it is quite cool to see macro algae sprout from nowhere and grow on the glass and pvc pipes!

I have a crazy idea which I'm trying myself with some success. Since you've mentioned its the glass area, try lighting it with a 13 watt PC or something. I stuck a 13 watt PC (study Lamp) to my glass overflow with durso pipe. It is now overgrow with some sort of algae swamping with pods. The algae just grew from nowhere and aheres to all available surface area in the overflow compartment. I believe it will work as some form of nutrient export but its effects will be limited due to its size. Other benefits I can derive from it is a more stable pH as I keep it lit 24/7. Cheers!

Can try the laguna pump. 4850 l/hr at 55 watts!

drool.... can I know how much does one H&S cost?

Tried the marine buffer, but the effects are short lived, hence I was wondering would the enormous constant amount required be detrimental? Perhaps I'm justing chasing numbers? Thanks Tanzy!

Thanks Robe! I am recirculating my 2nd chamber. But having it at 6.5 is pushing my pH to the lower ends of 8.0 in at day break and 8.15 peak at noon. Hence I was wondering should I increase my pH effluent from 2nd chamber since it is suppose to help against low pH due to a Cal Reactor.

Hi, I was searching around and found that most ppl keep the effluent pH from the first chamber at around 6.5. I am wondering whats the pH effluent coming out of your 2nd chamber???

Just watch the total amperage. If the transformer you get is too small, you may not be able to drive the fans if the amperage load is too high.

Wow!!! quite cool looking! I was wondering... 1. Will your filter floss in A float? (Bio-balls too!) Because the water level in B will be higher as the overflow from B to C is higher. Hence the water level in A and B is determined by the height of the overflow between B to C. 2. I think your bio-balls in B will try to float as it is submerged in water. I think bio-balls should be exposed to air to allow for maximum aerobic denitrification. 3. The water flow from skimmer compartment D to refugium compartment E to F Maybe too fast. What I mean is that the water may tend to go directly from compartment D to F with very little mixing of water in the refugium. 4. Wondering what kind of skimmer you intend to get? Depending on what you intend to put in compartment F, you may get micro bubbles back into your main tank as you do not hav baffles... The above points is what I interpret from the diagram and pics. I may have totally misinterpreted the setup and I may be wrong. Just my 0.2cts, hope you do not get offended. Overall, I think its way cool!

Hi [d]3v|L, please dun get a damsel for cycling! If it is your intention to get a damsel for cycling, I suggest not coz its not very fair to the poor fish! If I got your intentions wrong, please forgive me and forget what I said. Cheers!

Hi, I'm using the Aquamedic Denitrator 400 with deniballs as food source for the bacteria. My nitrate has dropped from 100+++ to zero in a months time. I think it definitely works!

Hi Alvy, think the link not working???

Wow AT!!! looks great! Think you should be ready for a tank warming party soon rite??? Cannot wait to see your tank up close and personal!

Maybe for a start, can those interested pls PM me? Then I'll go shop for the parts and assemble.

Lifespan of the unit??? I honestly would not know??? Its only a few months old. As for fancy packing, what fancy packing??? I never did post any packing right??? and did not have any intention too as well!

a bomb??? hah hah hah Technically, its not very difficult. Our normal plant fertilizer ammonium nitrate will work. Only difficult part is getting the HE/ignitor. Hon you want one???

Hi, I'm using plumber's tape to secure my durso pipe to the bulkhead as well, works fine. I think you would like the durso to be as high as possible. My overflow column is almost all entirely filled with water and my durso is just below it to eliminate the noise from water falling. Also, I had to make a screen to prevent snails from climbing into my durso. I have no idea how it got into the overflow bx but it did get into my durso and choked the pipe. Luckily the tank did not overflow!!! Also, can you let us know the what pump and flowrate you are using for your H&S skimmer??? Thanks in advance!

To hongqixian, hi, I'll try to answer some of your questions here. How long will it last??? er... , it runs on AC from your wall socket, so no battery to replace.. As for the fresh water, it will depend on how big is your fresh water reservoir. Specs: hmm... 12 DV to Float Switch (minimum risk in the event of current leak), support any AC pump up to 1 amp.(that can be modified) Three light indicator showing which mode the unit is in. A selector switch to choose from pump "off" , pump "on" and "auto" mode. These selections will come in handy when you want to do tank maintaince etc. price wise, assuming a price of $100, its alot cheaper than commerical ones. Sealife has their own custom made ones which is alot simpler and retails for $125. As for the packageing, what were you refering to??? To BarraCuda, that can be easily done. Question is, why do you want to drag such a long piping from your tap? All you need to do is connect the topoff unit to a solenoid that controls water instead of air, fit it to your tap. Very costly...

The entire thingy gets quite costly. Around the region of $80. How much do you think you would be willing to pay for it??? If the response is good, I might just consider making it for everybody.

Sorry for posting so many pics. This would be the final shot. Its a pic of the DC relay. The heart of the Auto-topoff unit. Any comments on the unit???

Another internal shot. The lights are also arranged in red, amber, green.

Another front view shot