Cedric

I think the black plastic control boxes are quite cheap from Sim lim tower (does not include all the switches!) and you can easily wire it to control the pump as well!

Oh! I did discuss that with lightningstrike. Its a hell lot easier than what we are doing but we didn't want to hear the beeps every time it comes on!

Hi Weilong, excellent suggestion! We can place the probe in the pipes between the chiller feed pump and the chiller!!! That way if the pump fails, water will stop running and temp will remain more or less constant!

Hi to all again, with regards to the comments made by Sunray, I offer my views. Sunray mention something along the line of temperature probe being soft and bends in strong water current. Well, the probe of the FOX controller I use definitely will not bend. I suspect the probe Atman orginally use is quite soft. Next, about the change of capacitor, were you refering to the small black box mounted on the bottom of the casing? That is wired to the compressor and nothing to do with the sensing of temperature. Just for all to know, there are two different standards for the probes used in commerical temperature controllers. To sense the temperature, they read the resistance across the probe to tell the temp. If you do not want to use the orginal probe that comes with the controller (strongly not recommended), then you will have a hell of a time to find a capacitor/resistor to adjust to the correct voltage and current for the controller to give the correct reading. I am making a guess here that Sunray is placing the probe of the new eliwell controller in the water reservoir. However, as the hole in the reservoir is quite small, he had to change to a smaller non-orginal probe and hence had to use another capacitor to compensate in order to get a true reading of the temperature. Er . . . A long shot but let me know how wrong is my guess ok? To Sunray, can I know which capacitor are you talking about? I'm really confused!

Ok, just to make it transparent to all, I am doing the mod for bro Eric at $150. Including all parts.

Hi, I think me and sunray do things differently. I do it with the controller mounted outside and temperatre probe in the main tank; plus I use a different controller with 3 digits, i.e. to 0.1 degrees. Plus I dun understand his use of "thermostat" (I keep wondering if he is refering to the controller or the temperature probe? In the dictionary, a thermostat is: A device, as in a home heating system, a refrigerator, or an air conditioner, that automatically responds to temperature changes and activates switches controlling the equipment.)So was he refering to the temperature controller? I also did not change the capacitor as I do not understand the need to. I find it rather troublesome to redo the electrical connections inside. Why not see if Sunray is willing to do it for you first? If he is unwilling, then I'll be more than willing to help you. Just can let me know!

Hi CalciumReef, so what do you propose? The next thing I can think of is to "Remove" the orginal probe and replace it with the new one in the water reservoir. Any ideas? p.s. by the way, do you happen to run the atman as well?

Hi everyone, I guess its a problem that as long as we change to an external controller, we will have to place the new temperature probe externally in the main tank or sump tank. While it offers more accurate reading, I must agree that it presents a new set of problems as suggested by calciumreef (i.e. when pump fails, the reservoir might freeze up.) Deos anyone have a solution to that?

Can I know why you change the capacitor? Thanks!

? Sorry I dun quite understand. The thermostat? Are you refering to the temperature probe?

Nope, thats not a fox controller. its only 2 digit. A fox controller is 3 digit.

Hi, well I guess you can over come the problem by connecting the pump to the controller as well. The artica commerical chiller has the probe in the main tank as well. I guess the problem with this is the stagnant water in the pipes and reservoir but since the atman has a small reservoir, the problem may not be too severe.

Hi to all users of ATMAN chillers. As a user myself, I'm sure you will all agree with me that our chillers cut in too often for our liking. ( although it does maintain the temperature rather preciously) What happen was I used poor brother lightningstrike as a test subject Using an external 3 digit temperature controller that allows heater and chiller function control, time delay and temp differential, we stripped the chiller apart and rewired the innerts. We are proud to say it works!!! So now bro lightningstrike has an atman chiller with an external controller, whose temperature probe is in the main tank. This will allow accurate measurement of the water temp. The chiller cuts in alot less often and you can easily program the delta as you like. This is to let fellow reefers know it can be done quite easily so why not try it yourself?

PLatax for the info!

Hi, would like to ask some questions which I orginally asked when you first posted about this wonderful service but unfortunately my questions did not get answered. So here it is again! Q: How are you refilling the cannisters? I.e. are you bringing to places like SOXAL for example for them to refill or simply decanting? I.e. transfering from a big huge cannister to a smaller one? Thanks!

SRC was slow for me too! I'm on Singtel Magix, all other sites are fine! Any way to improve the speed?

Wah? So fast selling liao?

Correct me if I am wrong, but I think the TR 1.25HP is not true 1.25HP. At around 800 watts for a 1.25HP TR(if I recall correctly), perhaps its only running a 0.5HP compressor?

Its really quite cheap actually. Less than $50 as long as you dun change the controller as well. But it'll be good coz with a new controller, coz you can have a three digit LCD with all the fancy stuff.you can have the temp probe in your main tank reading the actual temp of your system. I think the difference could be because you do not heat up the compressor and other parts ithe hot air like in the RA series. Serious, it made a difference in my friends tank. Hi lighthningstrike, yes I sold my chiller, it was never a teco. I did the teco mod on my friend!

Hi, on the topic of RA 680, just like to share something with those who are using the old version. The old RA version sucks in air from the back and blows out the front(the side which you read the LCD display). The new version, TW series sucks in air from the front and blows out the back. I helped a friend to mod the old RA chiller with a new fan motor, new blades and new controller(extra) to follow the new TW. I must say that the performance has improved with the reversed air flow. For those with the old RA series, its worth a try!

Depends on how you define good? I find it cheap and efficient in cooling my tank with 950watts of pumps, lights and stuff running my 3 feet. Fortunately, the atman was able to chill my tank and maintain at 25 even when the weather is so hot now. My greatest disappointment was the frequent cutting on/off of the chiller.

Don't think so, when I bought my maxijet from water circle, it does not come with the venturi attachment show in your pic.

Wow! Macro Needle Wheel skimmer! Atman external pump! Interesting choice of equipment you have here, but I have no doubt you have done your research and decided whats best for you! Everything looks really cool! Do you think it will be too much trouble to have a pic of the insides of the needle wheel pump by macro? Also, The atman pump looks unique! Can I ask where you bought it and what are its specs? Sorry for asking so much, I'm just really curious

Found this Conversation, might be helpful! Hence I recommend using the ppt scale as it seems most consistant according to my little experiment.

Hi to all, I happen to have with me the two refractometers from Reef depot and a third different one I got from a fellow reefer direct from US. Out of curiosity, I calibrated all three with ultrapure grade water I got from a lab and proceeded to take reading of my tank water using all three refractometers. The reading I got was quite surprising. All three showned 35ppt but the similarity stops there. Mine shows 1.026SG but the two from Reef Depot showed 1.027SG. Which means to say the scale is different! Does anybody now of the actual concersion to convert 35ppt to SG?