Cedric

Hi AlfaRomeo, sorry I didn't read this earlier. Nope, the FOX controller cannot handle your draw. You will need a contactor definitely!

I am assuming you have read this post? All you need is to get the temp controller (any brand, any model also can). After that you will have to diy the wiring yourself. No special parts required. It is however important that you can read a simple electrical wiring diagram.

Thank me? hahaha Not necessary! I don't even remember his shop name! I'm only avocating installing fail safes by using redundancy in our system. But thanks for relaying the message, I appreciate it! Use any brand or type of controllers you want! As for relays or contactors, I do not use any because my amperage usage does not warrant the use of one. Take into consideration for your load and startup amp and add a safety factor! Only you can decide if it is safe enough to run without a relay coz I do not know what is your electrical load!

Can I learn from your experience since you have used both the RIO 3000 l/hr and Aquabee 3000 l/hr pump, in your opinion, which do you think is a stronger pump? Stronger in terms of pushing more water and hence enhancing the performance of your skimmer? I understand it is off topic but I wish to find out more.

sim lim tower or sim lim square? do they come with a instruction manual.. Already answered in previous post bro!

The usual price of the temperature is around $90+/-. I got mine at a discount of $65 because I bought in bulk (About 15 controllers). The wiring is very simple, however, the only timer fuction is the start delay. Meaning to say, if I set the time delay to 15mins and the temp flucuates frequently, the controller will ony allow the MH to restart after 15mins when the temp has dropped beyond your preset level.

Another pic taken with lights off

Cost range from $65-$150+++. I'm using the AC to AC version capable of handling up to 3Amp. Heater or Cooler function, full delta control, plastic coated probe and 3 digit LED display. FOX is a made in Korea brand. Working very well for me so far. This is the blur pic I can dig out so far.

Er . . . You do not necessary need a "FOX" temperature controller. Any temperature controller will do. There are several models to choose from in Sim Lim Tower. The wiring diagram is also provided. It looks just like the temperature controller found in all our chillers. Only thing to add is you need to tell them its for "heater" function instead of "chiller" function

I use the fox controller and thats it! It comes with its temperature probe which I leave in the main tank, it is wired inbetween the power supply and the MH. WHen the temp of the main tank rises beyond your preset temp, it will cut the power supply to my MH. ITs really very simple!

Yes! Unfortunately we are at the mercy of our equipment to protect the numerous lives in our care. But as with all mechanical components, they can and will fail one day when we are least prepared for it. So what we can do is to prepare for such failures with backup systems or contingencies. In my case, I installed a temperature controller (see pic) that will shut down my MH (the biggest heat source in my tank) in the event my tank's cooling system fails. Things that can fail includes: Chiller, Chiller pump, return pump, etc. I have also installed a 3inch DC fan that runs 24/7 to help chill the water although it is totally unnecessary. The additional side effects are higher evaporation but hey, I get to dose more kalk through my kalk reactor. My backups has saved my tank three times already. Twice due to my chiller pump freezing up with calcium deposits and once because I forgot to on my chiller after maintenance. My tank's temp climbed to 28 degrees but no higher, thanks to the fan and the MH being off. Hence the best thing to do is be prepared!

Yup, just as I suspected, yours is not a step down regulator. It just controls how much is released from your co2 tank. A 2 stage regulator first reduces the pressure from the co2 tank to 1 bar, and the second stage will regulate what is the release rate. You need to change your regulator. Nature aquarium has some rather cheap regulators available.

Creetin, can post pic of your regulator? I suspect yours is not a step down regulator.

Oh, I normally buy vinegar by bottles of 15 liters each. Very cheap, only about $8. Get from food industries!

Oh, what I do is to run the skimmer in vinegar. The skimmer comes out sparkling clean!

got pic to show?

? 8nm? Perhaps you got the rookies at the healms? I remember its usually 5nm or 2mins for heavy behind heavy for Wake turbulance. 118.25 was used during duo ATC plug in. So they changed from 118.6 to 118.25 for good? So its still 3000? There's no breather for the ATCOs at 3000 lah, I was hoping they'll revert back to 5000. Oh well . . . Nope, I dun fly, I was an ATCO

Hi Weisoon, how do you find our ATC compared to those of other countries? Is our current clearance still up to 3000ft upon take off from 118.6? before transfer to approach?

Er . . . I would recommend you do it yourself. Its extremely easy!!! The cost for the fan motor is around $18, blade is around $5. All you need is a screw driver and a little technical knowhow and you are done in 15mins. I've done the fan mod/replacement/repair and was surprise why so many people are willing to pay so much to repair a simple thing like the fan?

Hi Creetin, use vinegar to slowly dissolve the coraline. Never attempt to scrap it off as the seal is weak around the metal temperature probe.

Can I know where to buy this? Thanks!

Now that tunze skimmer looks very very familiar!!!

Excellent Service!

I would recommend you leave the prawn in!

Try a tablet. Am using a HP/Compaq TC1100. Way cool, and fast too!