Underwater

SM's FAQ in his signature. http://www.algaescrubber.net/forums/viewto...hp?f=9&t=68 Scrubber Lighting: Q: What kind of light do I need? A: Experience has shown that at least a 23 Watt Compact Fluorescent (CFL) floodlight, of the 2700K or 3000K color, works best. One on each side of the screen, about 4" from the screen, and pointed at the middle of the screen. And note that 23W is "at least", unless it's for a nano. These CFL lights have also shown to only last about three months before their power drops off (even though they "look" fine). T5HO has also shown tremendous growth, although they are more difficult to design and build, however their even spread of light from side to side is superior to CFL bulbs. And recently, it has been found that there is an upper limit on CFL bulb size; CFL bulbs in the 50 watt range are at the top, whereas anything in the 60 watt range is too much. If you must use 60 watts or more, then use two smaller bulbs instead. The lighting just needs to be spread out more, and not concentrated so much on one spot. And whatever wattage you use, always get a "floodlight", which has the reflector built-in. If you already have bulbs and they are not floodlights, be sure to get "CFL reflectors" so you can point the light at the center of the screen, and not waste any. Q: What's the best wattage/power bulb to use? A: Generally, up to 50 watt CFL bulbs. The more powerful the light, the faster your nitrate, phosphate, and nuisance algae will be reduced, and the lower they will stay. The bare minimum for any setup is a 23W CFL Floodlight, 2700K or 3000K. A maximum might be a 55 watt bulb, but you can have multiple smaller bulbs, of course, in order to reach your recommended total wattage. The ultimate are TH5O bulbs, which spread the light out so that the most light-power can be placed near the algae, without "burning" it. Q: What's the best bulb color/spectrum? A: The best would seem to be the "plant grow" spectrum. These bulbs looks "pink", and don't seem bright at all. But 2700K and 3000K seem to grow even better.

Bro, the exhaust fan blowing 24hrs? Do replace it once you hear funny sound coming from it after using for a while, just to be on the safe side. You may want to consider placing the chiller outside the cabinet cos it will run longer as it'll still take in warm air from within the cabinet than cooler air if placed outside. As a bro suggested, quite risky to have electrical sockets fixed under waterpipes, esp if near joint areas (possibility of leak from the joints). Waiting to see your lifestock in....

Very nice & neat website. Great effort and must have taken you a lot of time to do it. Just my 5ct comment...takes longer to look for a certain fish as there are too many steps and the user may not know, e.g., which region the fish comes from, hence, will be tough to locate that required species. Probably easier for users if there is a main page showing main 'category' (fish, turtle, shrimps, etc), follow by 'family' (for fish) and 'species' (for others such as shrimps & turtles), next would be pictures of all the species under that group, and once the user found his species, he can click on that picture to see the detailed info which could include its habitat and behaviour.

Anyone seen S to M blue tangs?

I recommend SgBros too.

So far so good for my soft coral tank. With those 3 angels, the fourth dwarf must be big enough liao...a flamebk would be nice w the blue & yellow...heehee. Golden angel is nice but not many success cases I think. Tks for offering the GSP, i got mine liao. Oh, I got that cheap mixed viet zoa you recommended that day, very nice indeed! Ok ok, if you are going east or west, let me know, would love to lobang...no car really difficult to go those farms. Ok, better not dilute your thread, do update us if you got new acquistion. haha.

Hoohoo, 2 sohals...nice! Bro, since you dun have angels, besides zoas, u can add blue, purple & orange sponges, and GSP to add color to your tank like mine. Easy corals to keep and multiply. Soft corals are nice, though often not given much attention.

Wow, this is one big tank not commonly seen here. I think the fishes in there are gonna be very happy. Will be coming bk often to view the pics...

If there is really no success till this long here, i think it's time the LFS stop importing this fish to avoid further killing and reefers wasting their money.

Yes, chiller in/out should NOT be in the same compartment. That's wrong positioning cos some chilled water in that compartment will get back into your chiller again, sending the wrong temp signal to the chiller while your main tank has not been totally chilled yet.

Quite surprised that yr tank maker didn't make any ventilation holes (with exhaust fan even better) at your top cabinet. Though you have powerful fans blowing at your lighting, the warm air is just circulating within the cabinet and will only get even warmer when your 2x250w MH lights are on. Really good to get those trapped warm air out from the top cabinet if you want to save some electricity and having chiller running too often.

Sorry, type error in earlier post. __________________ To make it simply... Warm water drawn in by the pump should be in the sump compartment (usually first or second) before chilled water pumped out in another compartment (usually the last compartment where return PUMP is). Not the other way round. Both inlet and outlet should not be in the same compartment. Some reefers chose to pump chilled water directly into main tank from the chiller.

To make it simply... Warm water drawn in by the pump should be in the sump compartment (usually first or second) before chilled water pumped out in another compartment (usually the last compartment where return pipe is). Not the other way round. Both inlet and outlet should not be in the same compartment. Some reefers chose to pump chilled water directly into main tank from the chiller.

Hi bro, it's 'tang', not 'tank', so we dun get confused reading your posts. Blue tangs are quite proned to white spots. The source of your fish is also important. Buy from more reputable LFS, or as suggested by Bro Solo, get those feeding ones. If you buy unhealthy stock in the first place, the fishes will have to struggle more in your tank, presuming water parameters are ok. And yah, don't add anymore fishes as suggested till you are sure of your water parameters.

Nice anemone. As for rockscape, maybe remove the centre piece LR (the one which is very white in color) wld be nicer.

Nice tank, bro. I'm getting to like EOS setup now.

Oh, thanks. Thought there were other advantages. But definitely worth considering if i were to do a new tank in future.

Bro Nitro, can share with us the advantages of using the EOS than those usual built-in type? It does seems like a better idea as it gives more space to the main tank and less ugly too. In case of leak somewhere at the pipes, EOS seems easier to rectify.

No immediate results but it works, can try Algae Scrubber. It works for me. http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=73162

Fish is about 3-4 iches. Ups for sale.

Collected. Thread closed.

Selling Sohal tang - $90. Healthy and eats any fish food. Collection at Hougang Central. Thanks.

FOC live sand from my decomm 3.5ft tank. Collection anytime today at Hougang Central. Thanks.

Selling for $12. High fin, healthy and eating greedily on pellets. Collection at Hougang Central.

Isn't using hook and line cruel to the fish, esp trying to unhook it? Imagine a hook that goes through your mouth and someone trying to pull it out? Pls don't do that to ýour pet. The fish may suffer mouth infection thereafter. Try the 'sudden lights on'method. Works 90% of the time for me. When all the fishes went to sleep during lights off, after an hour or so, turn on all the tank lights. The fish will come out from the LR 'blurred' and this is the best time to scoop it up. Should work for tangs and clownfish, except wrasses which could be more difficult.