Kalib

1. Get the biggest model possible. Its always better IMO, better to have more than sufficient filtration than to have insufficient filtration. 2. Since its a nano tank, i think like what Terryz has mentioned, better to get a small skimmer. It helps in removing wastes in the water, hence aiding in filtration as well. So long as you use a wooden air stone with a powerful airpump, you should be able to get decent skimmate. I have ever managed to collect brownish skimmate on my Orca air-pump driven skimmer.

I don't think there's any problem, my 2 false percula clowns usually swim at mid to surface level as well. You can do a check on water parameters just in case but i don't think there's a problem.

If you got a tripod, try using it, alternatively rest your camera or hands on a steady object like a table before snapping. High bioload Careful of the Tang police too.

There is 11W PL. Its for those small tanks, like 1.5', 1'.

Looks safe to me. I've seen his tank several times.

Don't add fish in to kick-off the cycling. Its a practise that is often frowned upon as it causes stress and suffering to the fish. Try putting yourself in a room that is filled with waste and more waste for weeks before it gradually gets cleaner daily. The die-offs from the liverock should be sufficient to kick-off the cycling, alternatively, if no die-off occur, you can add some meat like a dead market prawn. The transition from a freshwater to a marine environment is likely to kill-off the bacteria found in your canister, so its good to cycle again.

Just to add on, dead rock is basically just those dried rocks you find at the LFS which are placed outside in the open rather than in the water.

Yes, wearing gloves will save you alot of suffering later on. The spines from bristleworms are small and hard to see, very painful after you get pricked all over.

There's no fixed time frame, some tanks cycle faster, some longer. Use testkits to determine if its ready for the 1st fish or that it needs more time. Guessing is not good. You should cycle again, the transferring of sand/LR from your current tank to the new tank is likely to kill of bacteria.

I think some LS like snails take in calcium for their shells as they grow. You should increase the level, 320ppm is a little low. 400-450 is the recommended range.

Maybe you can try introducing both at the same time. MIGHT prevent fighting.

Most LFS should have coral sand. Just pick a grade you want, i think grade 1 or 2 would be good. Liverocks can be found at the fishfarms, LFS not sure though, some have some don't have. If you stay in the East, E*quarist's P*ace and the Pasir Ris fishfarms will have. Those LFS near Farmart should also have. I think fighting may occur, read that not more than 1 dwarf angel(the type of angels which both flame angel and coral beauty fall under) should be kept in a tank. I think for a 2ft better to get either one not both, since its the territorial issues between both fish that cause fighting.

Since this topic is about fragging corals, might as well i tag along and post this URL i got. Mushroom Propagation - Fabio Iannelli

Results in high high high levels of nitrates.

If your testkits detect sufficient levels of calcium and dkH, no need to dose anything Otherwise you should does, but don't like me just keep dosing and dosing blindly and end up with calcium at 600ppm and dkH at 17. My advice is to use a testkit to determine if dosing is required before you buy anything or dose anything.

Its not about being strict here, by stating your topic clearly we know exactly what your talking about in the post, no need to waste time looking at something which you have no interest in right?

I want the rotifers for raising cleaner shrimp larvae.

The one to Aqua F*una is still available.

There goes my supply of Rotifers. No wonder no reply from them when i emailed them to enquire about buying their Rotifers.

Came across this article on the web and would like to share it with those interested in raising and breeding the banggai cardinalfish. http://www.breeders-registry.gen.ca.us/Art...rini/marini.htm

Here's some websites that i've visited to gather information to raise cleaner shrimp larvae. There should be another 1 or 2 more sites but i can't quite seem to find the URL amongst my bookmarks, will post them up when i find them. http://www.reefs.org/library/article/r_toonen10.html http://saltaquarium.about.com/gi/dynamic/o...4%2Fscarlet.htm

Rotifers may work better than enriched bbs. Managed to find a local company who can supply Rotifers. http://www.watercircle.com.sg/Marine.html Have emailed them and waiting for a reply.

The only problem i can see about tilting the MH is that light may fall out of the tank which may make it look unsightly and that you don't make full use of the MH. So, you may have to lower the angle by a little. A MH bulb covers around 2'x2' surface area. Its a good idea overall, however if viewed from the side, the MH may shine right into your eyes which is actually very bad as MH is very bright. Just some thoughts which you might want to consider.

3 to 5 years without water change Did you miss out anything on the website? Or you happened to read the article by the guy who 'invented' the sump. If just relying on a DSB, thats definitely not possible. As far as i know, DSB only does nitrification at the upper levels and dentirfication at the lower levels. This only takes care of the bioload, what about the other processes like elements lost through natural processes? Corals take in elements like calcium and other trace elements. There's quite alot of chemical reactions going in the tank and elements found in the water actually can aid in making everything stable. I've yet to fully understand this so i can't really explain Regarding the depth, at 30"-33" of water, metal hallide is a must if you intend to keep corals unless you are willing to put all the corals high up and leave the bottom empty or with some of those non-photosynthetic corals. Are you going to keep fishes or you intend to just keep corals? There's someone in this forum who owns such a tank, coral-only setup. What about a wider tank instead of such a deep tank? Fish swim sideways mostly, not up and down.

How thick is the glass? At 43" depth, you will need very thick glass maybe 15mm minimum otherwise you risk having problems in future. 43" -> Around 3.5' depth leh. Did you make a mistake?