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Ha ha ! a marine planted tank. would be nice to be able to see slightly more rocks, as the chaeto is like moss and the rocks slightly higher or taller. A good concept, the chaeto will acts as nutrient export and the lights helps in the growing of the chaeto!

Too much ultra violet can kill your fishes. Remember that there is such a thing as a Ultra-Violet light to purify water (it kills micro-organisms in the water) so too much no good, a little is useful of course as the sun produces UV as well as infra-red as well as the whole spectrum of light which indoors we cannot re-produce with our lighting systems.

Anothe quicker way is this. Just pour washed sand on the crushed coral. Over time the sand will slowly fall down to the bottom and fill the gaps in between the crushed corals. This way you will not trap uneaten food and reduce the amount of gaps in between the crushed corals.

I think it is a little bleached. I will feed a inch of prawn once a week. Try to give light as well but if hidden under the rocks, then no choice. But if feeding well then no problems.

I want! can contact me at 96419855. Thanks. I can collect today.

Sometimes I do ask myself Questions, 14 and 15. Question 18 and 34 are good questiosn are we are shooting outdoors. Q 26 & 29 are interesting points to note.

Sounds like fun and a challenge at the same time.

I thought that having a big 8ft tank with a central partition made of glass with several open area (covered with a netting mesh) so that water can flow thru, but not the fishes. Perhaps the partition can be covered with live rocks on both sides so that it appears that the live rocks becomes the partition area. this can be very interesting in terms of the aquascaping. Good Luck!

If we think of it like this. The total volume of the display tank and the sump tank if our Ocean. If the live rocks are in the sump and there is little in our display tank, the "dirt/impurities" will get pump to the sump to be cleanse and back to the main tank. It is ok. But if we want lots of rocks in our display ( for disply of corals etc) then we also need lots of equipment to maintain the system, then the sump will be full of equipment which we have to continue to maintain and check so no space. My take on this is - Let nature do its job naturally. We just enjoy the setup once it is setup and matured.

So far, personally I am a fan of low-tech marine tank. Truly, if we ever even see the condition of our local beaches, then you will understand why my personal statement is such. If we have been to Pasir Ris, Changi or Punggol beaches, we will know. I have been to Semaku and have see real corals and stuff right at our doorstep and the water condition is not fanstatic but nature has its way. I don't believe that we should be destroying the reef for our pleasure in our tanks. Since if we want corals, we must try to replicate nature's condition (sunlight, food, minerals) that is in the sea in our tanks (which is need impossible). If we just have a normal tank with fishes, then it is more easily achieve. My take is that for a low-tech tank, don't over-stock, allow time for each fish to find its own place in the tank. Also try to stock the tank at the same time. If we want to add new fishes, try to rearrange the aqauscape so that the "old" fishes have also to re-adjust to the new aquascape, giving time for the new fish to adjust as well. Good Luck.

if you can hold until Monday 3rd May, I will come and collect from you.

Maybe in the sump, he has many live rocks to aid in the stability of water?

If the water level on both tank is equal, then some of your rocks on the main tank will be exposed to air for a period of time. If that is ok, then stay with this arrangement as this works well for small tanks and you have the space to this arrangement, else go for the normal sump-at-the-bottom layout.

sand gives a more natural look. as for a FOWLR filteration is a issue, so the sand can have beneficial properties. We need to have sufficient water flow in the tyank to prevent algae bloom, if that is what you are worried about.

from the 2nd picture, I think you have the white tank as the refugium. Then the powerhead is in the white tank. The water is pump into the main tank, then there is an overflow where the water returns to the white refugium tank. The problem comes when the powerhead in the refugium is stopped. the main tank water will still overflow into your refugium, causing a flood. When the power comes back on again, the overflow will not automatically restart thus the powerhead will pump water until the main water floods. If you want to do it, you can have this design but must have a proper overflow box to counter this issue of power stoppages. Good luck!

This is a simple excellent idea to solve those who want a surge in their tank. Instead of having to buy expensive programmable pumps, this is a classic purely mechanical way to solve the problem. If you want to vary the frequency of the surge, then just have one compartment bigger than the other, or even have 3 different compartment, then the waves/frequency will be different. I think if we do this the height of water in this tank has to be carefully planned as if the compartments dump water at the time, the level of the water will suddenly go up way high and cause a flood.

Take care now that you have an anemone, becuase if the wavemaker is too strong then the anemone will start moving around, then suddenly one morning you wake up and see you tank like a blended "mikshake" with the anemone being sucked into the wavemaker and then blended to bits. Of course your livestock will mostly go up lorry and then you have to restart again. Please protect your wavemaker against accidently sucking in of the anemone. On websites, there will be several suggestions, please read through and consider before you regret.

If it is a 1.5ft FOWLR then it is possible to epoxy the rocks together to create a nice aquascape with sufficient space for the fishes to swim around. But 1.5ft for a reef tank is challenging. Somemore your is acting as a divider - meaning both sides of the tank is "seen" the 1.5ft is quite limited as the overflow has no "wall" to be placed, unless it is in the corner, then the flow of the water could be limited. you would nedd stronger motors to move the water around - meaning more heat, meaning you need a chiller, and meaning more equipment - menaing more $. If you have a 2ft width, then the "pressures" placed on you can be relieved as later on you can have more options. It is up to you brother. Good luck!

I stay in Hougang. can collect from you if you are alright. Thanks.

yes it is moon crab. They can be in your sump, to help clean up excess food and dirt.

My low-tech low-light FOLWR 2ft tank is similar to yours; only that my main tank has about more rocks than yours, but these rocks are reasonably big. My sump is also 2ft and has a basket full of live rocks. I like to give the hiding places for the fishes to sleep/rest at night as I do sometimes do a head count when they are all sleeping (they tend to sleep inthe same place every night). But to each his own, I like the mountan-in-the-clouds way that you have done it, it is actually very pleasing to the eye. But "in the view of aquascaping" the lower 1/3 of the tank should have rocks, gives it a more stable impression. If I were you, I will try to raise the "mountains" higher to about 1/3 of the tank". This will give the impression of mountains rather now "a bit Bukit Timah". Cheers. Good Luck!

School tank is still going strong, although it is very very low-tech, has a overhead filter, and a hang-on filter. the Damsel is still fighting strong, the anemone is still ok, 1 common local goby, else the rest did not survive the long lonely Dec school holidays. this is going to be a very very low-tech tank, the water will not have a filter, I intend to just do water changes by pouring in new water - high tide, then later suck out some of the water back into my sump - so becomes low tide again. This will occur at least once a week - water change. no mangrove as my balcony has only natural filtered sunlight. Maybe go and catch one more goby to accompany the crabs.

I caught several small big crabs (I think cannot eat type) from the Punngol beach. I placed them in a betta tank for the night, but in the morning discovered that they have all managed to climb over into the main tank. So after a week, I discover that all my fishes are swimming tio the surface. The reason because one of the bigger crab is occupied the rocks and the fishes are scared of the crab. So I got fed up and last night managed to use the tongs and catch the crab out. Now I am stuck, and after observing the crab for a week, got quite attached to it. So I will not create a vivarium for it as well as ctach the small crab from the main tank to join this fella. It will be smiple, some rocks, about 1 inch of water and then see how long these crabs can survived as I know that during the low tides they can survive like 4 hours in the hot sun without water. Will post pictures tonight when the tank is set up.

Cool DIY work!

I found this person's tank in the AquaticQuotient forum where he has a mangrove tank with mudskippers living in it. And of course I mentioned that if he has a reef tank connected to it, it will be super and that's what he will be doing next. http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum/showthread.php?t=65006 Brothers that are interested you can join in the forum to view this post.