oshkosh

Is the sand new or used?

upz

Any Pics of the T5?

Hi Stix, Having trouble with the PM. How long have you had the T5 and the tubes? I'm interested. Please reserve for me.

Hi. Interested in your T5. Does it take the HO tubes?

What is the length of the T5. Is it for a 3ft tank?

Yo Letdoit, I think you are jumping the gun here. First, a simple setup is possible. All you need is some sand, a few pieces of live rocks, a simple filtration system and you are off. Things you can keep in the setup? Hardy fishes only. Check out damsels, there are many to choose from. You want to keep corals with the above setup? Best of luck. Know that if you keep replacing dead and dying corals, the money will add up. As you are a newbie, I would suggest that you start up simple and just keep fish for the next few months. Move up to more delicate fishes and corals when you have had some experience. As for starting up the tank. It is good to cycle it first before you throw in any lifestock. What is cycling? Read up! I know you are quite excited about getting the tank going, but by the questions you ask, it shows a lack of any reading or research at your end. It's important that you have some foundation. Better get it soon. Cheers and good luck.

I migrated in 1.5 weeks. No visible damage to LS. How I did it? 1. Set up the new tank while the old is still running. Fill with new water and new sand. 2. Let the water cycle, and transfer a few pieces of LRs from the old to new tank. 3. Seed your new sand with some sand from your old tank. 4. Transfer some old filter media from your old to new tank. This should jump start the cycle and at the same time introduce bacteria to your new tank. The LRs and sand also help. 5. Depending on the size of your tank, transfer about 5% of the water between the old and new tank, daily. This serve to equalize the water parameters between the old and new tank. Also introduce bacteria in the old water. 6. Transfer your LRs over a few pieces at a time. 7. At the end of 1.5 to 2 weeks, test your water parameters, it should be ready for your transfer. 8. Move all LRs over and aquascape. 9. Move your corals and inverts. 10. Last but not least, catch and transfer your fast swimming fishes. Worked for me. You can give it a try.

The outrage is understandable but I feel that we unfairly heap all the blame on Mr. Durai. I feel that the board of directors of NKS should stand up and take half the responsibilities as well. They should not have approved this exorbitant pay package in the first place! Of course, they may think that this pay is ok, as reflected by the "Peanuts" quote from a member of the board. If this is how they really feel, they should have to guts to come out and make such a statement, and not let Durai take all the blame. I think that not only Durai will have to go for this, but the board of "Rich People" should consider stepping aside for people more cost conscious and more willing to make sure that the majority of the money goes to the people who needs this!

My fastest record for a 2.5 ft tank was 1.5 weeks. Shifting house then and did not have much time to start up the new tank. Nothing died from that move. Try to get an accurate reading with your test kit. If >80 you wait. If you are ready to cut some corners, your tank can actually begin to receive some hardy fishes like damsels/chromis. Generally these fishes can take nitrates of >40. Over time if you acclimatise your fishes, most fishes can survive in a high nitrate environment. I have tried this out on my blue tang and mandarin (unintentionally of course). Make sure that Ammonia and nitrites are low though. Get your nitrates to <20 before adding corals, they should survive in the short term but growth will be affected by the nitrate levels. Choose only hardy specimens. Don't try out with those requiring perfect water conditions. You can read up on them at www.liveaquaria.com In the meantime, try to achieve perfect water conditions. Happy reefing.

Anyone knows a good place?

Try a six line wrasse. Here's a link to a short write-up and a picture. http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Di....cfm?pCatId=375 Cheers

Hi Bro, How long is the casing?

Should be bleaching. No mistake about that. Not sure if you can turn the process around, but it's usually a sign that it's dying.

My blue tang did that before. It is a sure sign of itch. My tang survived without medication so I think that it is due to a combination of factors. 1. I feed my tang Ocean Nutrition pellets. The Formula 2 ones, with garlic. It builds up resistance. I don't think it is too late to try this. 2. I have cleaner shrimps in my tank. They do help the tang to pick off the white spots. 3. At this stage, keep your water parameters stable. Change usually stress fish and lower their immunity levels. If you want to try medication, do it in a quarantine tank. This way you don't contaminate your show tank with the medicine. Blue tangs don't have a good record for surviving itch. But I have had my blue tang for almost 2 years now, so I don't think its the end of the road for your tang. Good luck.