cci[RR]us

I was just kidding. Gold is a metal so is a good heat conductor; gold is "very" inert so it is highly unlikely to react with the saltwater to for gold oxide. Heh.

Btw, Gold is inert.

It might not be cost-efficient to do so. In other words, you might be better off running your chiller more often than buying a couple of these peltiers and powering them for a long time.

I have read that peltier cooling is "good" for smaller tanks; most marine tanks here would not be suitable for peltier cooling.

Get any old power adapter that has sufficient voltage AND current ratings, from your old handphone, cordless phone, modem, routers, etc... then cut off the socket part, trim away the rubber tubing to reveal the 2 sets of copper wires, and finally attach to the YELLOW (+12DC) and BLACK (ground) molex connector of your CPU fan. There are only 2 ways to connect the 2 copper wires to the yellow and black sockets of your CPU fan molex connector. If it doesn't work, simply swap the wires around. You have 50% chance of getting it right the first time, and 100% chance of getting it right the second time! Note: Most 80mm CPU fans are rated 12VDC, 100mA (0.10A). I have tried using 5VDC, 200mA power adapters on these fans, and they worked, although they spin much slower. But my 2 feet tank still gets cooled sufficiently. It would be better to find adapters producing the same amount of voltage and current as the fan for optimum performance. Also note that when the fan is spinning at top speed, it can be noisy. Lowering the speed <=> lower frequency of vibration and lower amplitude of sound <=> noise less noticeble to the human ear. Thus, it might be better to get a slower spinning 120mm DC fan instead of a faster spinning 80mm DC fan, even though both have the same rated airflow, in Cubic Feet per Minute (CFM). In other words, there is same performance but with less noise.

They don't look like zoos to me, more like yumas.

2 feet black wooden stand: S$92, from C328. 2 feet round edge Nisso tank: S$20, from a bro here. Total: S$112.

I'm laughing until I get cramps...

Wah! Do you have a pic or video of them playing in the plate coral? I'm curious to see them in action in the plate coral! Amazing leh...

Good to see that your Suns are doing very well, however, be sure to keep them well-fed. I neglected my suns for a while due to school work and they are noticebly shrunk.

Mine never bothered with the plate coral. In fact, I read that clowns rarely play with plate corals.

Do us a favour, learn to shrink your photos. Read about it here: http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/using/d...eschelman2.mspx

For my case, when I first introduced them into my tank, they don't extend outwards. It was only after weeks of conditioning then they became like this. Entice them with the juices of your mysis shrimps, then feed them everyday. Soon, they'll be nicely opened. Oh, they prefer to open up when there is no light. So if you wanna see them in full glory, you'd gotta wait until nightfall (and you off your lights).

No idea yet, but likely to be 4 feet. Intending to focus on tangs and a pair of (tomato?) clowns. I'll post ask for comments when the time comes. Here's an update of my tank, in the form of a video! Download the 36 seconds, 640x480 XviD video here.

Confirm cannot, unless your tank is really big. The golden stripe maroon is an aggressor towards any other clowns, including maroon clowns as well!

Yellow Tang, Blue Tang, Sailfin Tang? Pick one.

Reflector most likely will not disperse/diffuse the concentrated beam of light well. Well, no harm trying.

I need so many of them because I want to light up my tank from left, all the way to the right. If I cut down on the LEDs, I would not be able to cover the length of my tank. The proper way to reduce the brightness, I think, is to use resistors. My DC is too high, that's why they are too bright. Sad to say, I have no patience with my LED light and I didn't do any proper cover. My previous filter caused salt sprays which corroded all my LEDs and bread board. Right now, they are very rusty. But they were ok before I decommissioned it. Btw, you should look for glass or plastic blocks that are able to disperse/diffuse the focused light from the LEDs. Otherwise you'll find them acting as spotlights and look very ugly.

I think they sell at around 40 cents per piece. Btw I got that 25 cents price when I buy in bulk. I bought over 30 pieces, I think.

Not that mine no need, but I didn't bother to put. By right I have to put, but I chose not to put because I am too lazy. Somehow, they worked. But I stopped using them after a month coz they appear to be very crude looking. Yucks. Quite bright, but I can't find a light diffuser, to spread the concentrated beams of LED light into the entire tank. That's the main problem with LEDs, next is the narrow spectrum of their wave emissions.

Actually, no, I'll go to Sim Lim SQUARE instead. There is a shop along level 3 that specializes in these electronics stuff. Looks messy and "low-class", but it's a good sign. There, I got my blue and white LEDs at prices even LOWER than Sim Lim Tower. Since I wanted quite a few, I shopped SLT and SLS, and my efforts paid off. Each LED costs me S$0.25. Shiok... And if you wanna go SLT, be sure to go there during office hours coz most shops are closed after that. However, SLS is usually bustling with activities after office hours. My DIY lights are found here. I didn't bother to use a resistor coz I'm lazy. No soldering, just poke the LEDs into a bread board.

Clementi Avenue 2, Block 328 aka C328

Heh, I have no idea if they are harmful or not.

Yeah, I'm upgrading to a bigger tank this June.

Some updates of my tangs! They are free of ich now... whew! A new comer, a tiny blue tang. As usual, it is having ich now but hopefully the ich would go away after a week or 2, just like the rest of the tangs.