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not starting again in the nearest time. been there, done that. i will just watch from the side, and watch you guys growth with the hobit.

all LS gone... thanks to all the boys who supported me. oh ya, one last carpet anemone left. going at $3. collection at west coast or clememti mrt.

sorry bro, the blue tangs are sold as a total package with all LS. but to thank to you for bidding, i will pass you a bottle of new chemi-pure (artivated carbon) as a thank you token. please PM me or sms me at 97973622. sorry and thank you

some salt will take a few hours to be completely desloved. there is no harm in airing the water over night as well how frequent to change water will depend of a lot factors, biolaod, what you feed, etc. you can start with changing every 4 days, then every 5 days and observe, then 6 days and observe... you shall be able to notice a duration (4days/ 5 days/ 6 days, etc) which is the maximum days that you can do before the next water change. so that shall be the days that you shall perform water change

shall not be a problem. try to get the cleaner shrimps as big as the coral banded.

the duration for changing light tube also depends on the time you "on" them. normally blue light will be turned on longer than white lights... different reefers also has different lighting hours, 10 hours white for some, 12 hours for some, 14 hours for some, etc. thus the duration of lighting will have to be depend on that as well...

less than 1% of the coral removed/ dead in the sea is for the hobit so dont feel too bad for it... (1% might also be a lot in kg though) more of my concerns are the fish... cleaner/ tile/ etc that have very slim chances of surviving... we shall really stop buying those fish that we cant keep successfully....

you are right in the salinity aspect. of course there are other areas that you can ensure that there are the same ie PH, temp, etc. but for me i only ensure that the salinity is the same then pour it...

me very low budget and low tech... but no tank soon. can also join???

Hi! everyone. thinking of kick starting this poll as i am leaving the hobit soon, i just want to have a place(thread) to share the mistakes i made and hopefully others will share as will. i hope that this thread will be useful to newcomers as they can learn from other people mistakes instead of them committing the same mistakes. i have committed more than one of the mistakes at different stages of my hobit life. for eg, i have not heard of PO4 like 3~4 months into starting my tank. the algal was growing faster and faster and there is just no way that i am able to manually remove them. i have read a lot of books that time but they are not emphasising much on PO4 and that it is a main source of food for algal. i am unaware of wetwebmedia, SRC, etc at that time and the only help that i have is from books and LFS. not surprisely, LFS started to sell me products and products that claim to remove algal. needless to say, the products are not helpful and i am not attacking the algal problem at its root. as luck has it, when i am at one LFS and i started to read through almost every product on the selve, i saw rowophas and decided to give it a try. like what they say, the rest is history... side note; my concern here is not those new reefers that are aware of wetwebmedia, SRC. my concern here is how do we reach out to those new reefer whose only sourse of information is from LFS....

the idea is to have the new water to have the same salinity with the tank. initially we will have to use test for the salinity per pail of new water. after several trials, we can just make a marking in the pail and on the cup (that use to scoop the salt). from there on, we can just follow the marking... steps (for adding in new water): 1) marking on pail (filled with water) 2) scoop salt with cup and add to pail 3) measure the pail (repeat 2 and 3 till we get the ideal SG) 4) mark the cup 5) for every water change, just follow the marking will do. will need to do the same for the tank/ sump as well.

purple queen gone le. it is one type of anthias...

most likely is that the coral is rot then the snail goes eating...

hmm... bro, you use only MH ah? any T5 or other light? any coral stinging the brain?

thanks to the bro that purchase the coco worm, tube worm, one LR. bro Sotong, that one bro that reserve to buy all LS (inclusing blue tangs). if he no buys then i will reopen the sales by sun night : ) thanks for the interest.

PO4 = phosphate, one main source of food for algal. start using those carbon cater for PO4 once you have LS

hi! it is good that yur water has cleared up. remember to use PO4 carbon as well, like rowophas, etc in addition to your activated carbon. me knows nothing about PO4 carbon when i started my tank and have a hard time figuring why so many algal....

Thanks bro, for your comments.

okie, OIC, Bro. in that case, can we revert the design? that means place the most resistance material at the lowest tray? as the water going out wont be guided by the conduit anymore... tray 4 (most bottom) = black wool for large particle tray 3 = white wool sandwich carbon tray 2 = biohome tray 1 (top) = biohome i am interested in how to maximise caninister as bio filter as i feel that the price is reasonable. if i ever come back to reefing, i will still rely on caninster instead of sump, etc. i did read a book on linking 4 caninsters in series to serve as a BIG bio/ chemi filters... thanks bro in advance

dont need scrape all the rocks at one go. just scrape one or two at a time. if you do not have any LS, you can keep the lighting to min hours. when i cycling my tank that time, i do the same. slowly increase the lighting hours. how i miss the joy of adding my first fish into the tank and watch it eat... your turn will come soon

general guide would be: starfish with thorns are NOT reef safe starfish without thorns are reef safe : ) www.wetwebmedia.com <- more info

??? why so big reaction??? if the caninster is empty or all four trays are empty (filled only with water), i have to say that the flow will be identical. however, if i place filter wool in the first tray and second tray, then water passing through will: pass through tray 1 twice (through and fro) and pass through tray 2 twice (through and fro) how will the flow be the same at tray 1 and 4? another example: if i place a metal plate with a small hole in tray 1 and a metal plate with two middle holes in tray 2, will the flow in four trays be the same? (peace) (peace) i am not trying to proof who is right or wrong, i am just trying to show that different flow rate within a caninster can be archive if wanted to. IMO, biohome will be best place at the last few trays.

there will be water flowing through all trays but lowest tray will have the slowest flow, as the water has to pass through 4 trays of coral chips/ biohome/ wool/...

it is pointless to change 100%, i will rather change 20% each every other day for 5 times you can scrape your rock in the "used water" when you perform water change...

thanks to bro D for bidding $40, but increment is at $3 so it will be $41 for bro D. thanks bro D again.