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Thanks bro. I am just trying to find out whether it is worth spending the money on these test kits. I am also worry about over dosing those trace elements.

yo bro. wont you worry about over dosing those trace elements?

_-" dont tell me everyone only test for vitamin M regularly oh...

7.4 for PH is super super low... somethings is wrong... do large WC to re-balance the water asap...

_-" so did you test for NO3 Po4 for the seawater....

Dear SPS reefer, May I know how many of you are testing for (on top of PO4 NO3 PH KH): 1) Sr 2) I2 3) Mg 4) Ca 5) Potassium cos I am thinking whether to buy 1) 2) 3) 5) testers or not... Also, the steps for testing Sr are like testing for DNA, I doubt how accurate it will be loh...

you can try... but if smoke starts coming off the mixture, run fast

maybe i shall say high sensitive method, using same amount of water but double the regent, then divide the reading by half. This method is also mentioned in the test kit manual.

red or green colour film...

bro, do you test the PO4 and NO3 of your newly mixed salt water? Would it be a case of WC FOC PO4 NO3...

Do you try the double sensitive method for salifert?

I once have a picasso trigger fish in a four feet LPS tank, it won't touch coral but touch everything beside it, from anthias to clam to shrimp to crab... makes me wonder whether what I bought is a trigger or a shark...

80ppm is really really high liao.... better do more WC else coral and fish will gone soon...

haha, fight violence with violence ah

yes. just cut it. nothing is impossible. on a serious note: 1) make sure you have some glue, frag base (if you are not gluing it to rock). 2) then trim from the base of the colony (less obvious and those bottom sticks are used to less light) 3) glue the frag, then place the frag at lower light lower flow areas for one or few days 4) keep your fingers crossed

scissor scissor scissor...

i got mine from iwarna

dont permanently glue your coral on day 1, move it around till it is happy then glue it.

manufacturer expectation is that LED will lose up to 30% of intensity in a year. so after two years you shall either change a new LED panel or up your normal setting by half.

just go to any LFS and ask to buy empty shell. They will sell you (at least that how I got my empty shells from one of the LFS)

yoyo, any bros been to any nice LFS in Shanghai to recommend? Thinking of going LFS to look see look see... (Chinese translation: 你好我好大家好，七个隆冬锵冬锵，大家过个快乐年。)

Mr Ick will let you know the answer...

how many fishes do u have... how often do u feed your coral... if your NO3 PO4 creation is faster than your export, no way you can keep your NO3 PO4 down constantly... Sorry to disagree with the bro above, but don't do frequent WC with NSW, because there is absolutely no guarantee in the consistent level of water parameters in NSW, and for same tank, this mean more water change equal more water fluctuation equal more chance to buy new fish and coral...

1) buy fish that is bigger than it 2) when introduced new fish, put the PT in a breeder box 3) rearrange the rock work when introduce new fish 4) buy a trigger fish and see how it bullies the PT...

The only way to know is to try it out... I started with BN, acro, monti, then digi... then hand itchy, buy expensive aussie SPS, now heart seven up eight down... back to your question, i think BN and digi are two safest bets, if these two gone in ur tank, then hey, you just gotten yourself more rooms for colourful LPS ah