asg

O.03 is already consider critical liao...

I dont want to say which LPS, but those with super bright tank and place the SPS high up in the rock one, you can see most SPS are toasted...

great as in the BBQ texture? haha, just joking. Too high PAR will take more time to acclimatize any new additions, colours wise I don't think 400 PAR and 600 PAR will make any different to new additions ah.

First thing to remember: buy the best light you can afford Second thing to remember: light is only 1/4 of the main equation on how your coral will fare, the other 3 being water, food and flow. Oki, not an expert myself, just sharing some reads/ research from WWM or on the net. Some key points to remember when choosing LED light for your tank are: 1) LED will loss up to 30% of its intensity in a year (personally confirmed by a major LED manufacturer). this means that you shall adjust your light setting upwards (watch how your LS reacts) every six months or so. 60W -> 69W (6 mths) -> 78W (one year). So, please buy higher max watt than you need if you dont intend to change the LED panel or buy new light in the near future. 2) super super general guide for total wattage is 3-5 watt/ gallon for softies and LPS. 5 - 8 watt for clam and SPS. 3) super super general PAR value for softies/ LPS <150, monti around 200 - 300, Acrop around 300 - 350. Any reputable LED manufacturer will have a PAR diagram for their light set. This is where you shall look carefully and visualize how you shall place your coral. From the picture example below, it still pretty straight forward that any SPS place at 17cm center from the lights will get "ideal" PAR where at 17cm+20cm away from the light (bottom of tank), I shall be keeping less light hungry coral at the outer ring. 4) White (10000K) or blue (16000k)? more white (80%) or more blue (80%)? No conclusive findings in most of the internet articles but the bulk of them states that more blue lights does not necessary encourage more coral growth compare to white light (as white light consist of the blue spectrum too). so my advise would be just choose what you like but remember your fish wont be happy (read: healthy) if she does not see some daylight. conclusion: please read the first sentence of this post ten times.... of course there are other equally important factors (eg PAR, LUX) to consider when choosing a LED, but I think with the understanding of the above four factors, anyone is armed with enough knowledge to make a buying decision liao. More importantly, I am just writing these while waiting for my room service to arrive and yes, the food is here...

Penetrate as in? What is the PAR u are looking at at the bottom of ur tank? If PAR is 200-300 at 2.5ft bottom, the water surface might be >600 and most likely u will got BBQ coral...

Yes weighting scale is sure one way of doing it but it might not be as flexible if i am doing WC of diff volumn every now and then.

I have exp keeping 1.5ft, 2ft and 4ft tank and i can safely said that small tank margin of error or buffer is way way lower. Uneaten food, dead fish, half dead coral, etc can really crash the tank within hours. Plus there usually arent enough room for carbon, skimmer, etc all these fail safe mechanisium. So i would really advise you to get as big a tank as possible.

True that you need to factor in water loss (not salt) thro evaporation and thro wet skimmate but for some tanks SG is almost unchange dispite the two. So if i remove 10% water of 1.023, i shall top up with 1.023 water ya.

Yo bro. Cos we dont always keep our SG at the package suggested SG.

bro, just a piece of advice. If this is your first venture into marine, you stand a less than 10% chance of having a decent tank with a 30cm cube. safety margin too low for a newbie... Oki, now time for the answer. 1. Can i buy saltwater from SW LSF and some little live rock. - will this able to start the cycling faster ? Theoretically yes. 2. I plan to use a HOB Furval 30 - is it enough. No, not enough. 3. Light - plan to get Ecotech Radion - Is it a overkill ? - once save enough - any model to recommend ? Lighting, 3-5 watt per gallon or better more than 5 watt per gallon 4. Chiller - those china small chiller.( future expansion ) anything that can keep the temperature constant at 26-27oC 5. No skimmer - decide to do fourth nightly change of water. Bad idea. Your fish will have to live in their poo for 14 days... 6. Livestock - 2 clown + anemone. Without adequate flow and light, the anemone wont live long, esp in a small tank. 7 - Is bare tank advisable ? bare tank as in no sand bed?

firstly, test the NO3 PO4 for your mixed water, better to be safe lah. if your tank is 1.025, then top up with fresh water till DT becomes 1.025 (this is to compensate for daily evaporation loss), then WC with 1.025 water. don't do it the way of topping up with diff SG water unless you are trying to bring down/ up your SG. remember, you are not only changing water for your tank, you are also resetting/ replenishing the calcium, mg, trace elements, etc for your water and consistency is important to the LS.

Yo sis. It is easier to adjust your final SG by adding water to your salt mixed. What i do is: Add 80% water to the pail Add salt, stir, measure SG repeat till close to my target level 1.023 Final adjustment by adding bit of salt or water Add prime put carbon Let it air pumped for 24 hours Measured again After few times u will know how much it takes to reach ur target level eg 1.0225 will become 1.023 in 24 hours. P/S: dont use teaspoon lah, use a plastic bowl or something like that. Faster.

use a TDS meter to test your tap water, see the TDS level, also test for NO3 and PO4 of your tap water. The reason that makes me bought a DI filter is not because of the TDS level in the tap water but is the NO3 in it... as for the difference effect of using tap or DI water, it actually depends on your tank, it setup and LS. If I use prime, carbon in the tap water and has a huge ATS in my tank, I wont bother using DI water....

Oki, thanks bro. I will continue go look see look see whether can id it or not.

Bro, sorry ah, cos I think I also have a similar frag (yours is a lot more beautiful). Do you think yours are like those in the link? Acropora Prostrata Blueish https://sg.images.search.yahoo.com/images/view;_ylt=A2oKiHCUzcVUHhEACKcl4gt.;_ylu=X3oDMTIyNWtkbHJoBHNlYwNzcgRzbGsDaW1nBG9pZANjNzdkYjUxZDU2MzBjZWMyZjUyZGJmNjhiZjNiMDgzZARncG9zAzQEaXQDYmluZw--?.origin=&back=https%3A%2F%2Fsg.images.search.yahoo.com%2Fsearch%2Fimages%3Fp%3Dsps%2Bprostrata%26fr%3Dyfp-t-712%26fr2%3Dpiv-web%26tab%3Dorganic%26ri%3D4&w=500&h=500&imgurl=reefworks-trade.co.uk%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2013%2F06%2FA-prostrata-pink-L1.jpg&rurl=http%3A%2F%2Freefworks-trade.co.uk%2Fsps-corals%2Fa-prostrata-pink-l1%2F&size=119.0KB&name=Acropora+%3Cb%3Eprostrata%3C%2Fb%3E&p=sps+prostrata&oid=c77db51d5630cec2f52dbf68bf3b083d&fr2=piv-web&fr=yfp-t-712&tt=Acropora+%3Cb%3Eprostrata%3C%2Fb%3E&b=0&ni=21&no=4&ts=&tab=organic&sigr=11s264vhj&sigb=13apue8v7&sigi=128r7mh13&sigt=10p7b7vu4&sign=10p7b7vu4&.crumb=86eSa2JyOLa&fr=yfp-t-712&fr2=piv-web https://sg.images.search.yahoo.com/images/view;_ylt=A2oKiHCUzcVUHhEAHKcl4gt.;_ylu=X3oDMTIzM3Y4cTZtBHNlYwNzcgRzbGsDaW1nBG9pZAM5ZDlkNmZjMWUxNGFmMThkMWE5NjFlODBmNDM1ZTg2ZARncG9zAzI0BGl0A2Jpbmc-?.origin=&back=https%3A%2F%2Fsg.images.search.yahoo.com%2Fsearch%2Fimages%3Fp%3Dsps%2Bprostrata%26fr%3Dyfp-t-712%26fr2%3Dpiv-web%26tab%3Dorganic%26ri%3D24&w=640&h=480&imgurl=www.aquariaveldhuis.nl%2Fdomeinen%2Faquariaveldhuis%2Fwww%2Fproducts_pictures%2Fenlarged%2FAcropora-prostrata-blueish-ACROPORA-Aquaria-Veldhuis-Vijver-Centrum-Enschede.jpg&rurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.aquariaveldhuis.nl%2Findex.php%3FproductID%3D18132&size=48.7KB&name=Acropora+%3Cb%3EProstrata%3C%2Fb%3E+Blueish&p=sps+prostrata&oid=9d9d6fc1e14af18d1a961e80f435e86d&fr2=piv-web&fr=yfp-t-712&tt=Acropora+%3Cb%3EProstrata%3C%2Fb%3E+Blueish&b=0&ni=21&no=24&ts=&tab=organic&sigr=11nht6l1a&sigb=13bknshtm&sigi=14v0gvif0&sigt=111hgu8p6&sign=111hgu8p6&.crumb=86eSa2JyOLa&fr=yfp-t-712&fr2=piv-web

yo bro, dont mind if i ask what the name of you new aussie SPS (the light blue one, top of the photo) As for the algae, since you are doing large WC, why not blow them off the LR then siphon them out during the WC?

shall be 60l bro, (60cm * 30cm * 30cm = 54l)

yo bro, very nice tank and setup there bro. just my 0.2 cents of thought. dump the bio-balls, they are only effective in trapping debris and nothing else. BB works better in dark environment, so I suggest you somehow paste some black sticker at the outside of the sump where the bio media are. Don't lie your LR flat, in time to come, there will be tones of debris and uneaten food trap there. lot of good potential of a nice tank.

General guideline is 3-5 watt per litre normal range (lps and softies), 5 watt per litre above for SPS. Plus whether u wan in build timer, ramp up/ down feature, etc So it all depends on what u wanna keep and ur budget. One thing to note is that led will loss up to 30% of intensity in a year, so please factor that in ur selection.

What the dimension of the tank?

This post written by a lame reefer might help...

Thanks bro, that is assuring to hear. I am also a person who judges by coral and not by numbers. But I am so new to SPS that I have very limited confidence that my relatively successful way of managing LPS might not be applicable to SPS. seven up eight down ing... btw, i am always dosing ABCM, hopefully it works for my tank too.

Thanks bro for the infor. May I know for potassium and I2, if you test value is below recommended value, do you dose to bring up the value or just do WC?