IcecruncherZ

It depends on their mood? No lahz... as Juveniles they school... when they mature and find a mate they will remain paired for life... unattractive adults (like me) cannot find mate and continue to school lor... I think... Paiseh if wrong info... Cant remember where i read from

Wow! 4 Ft FOWLR to a 1 X room sized tank is quite an upgrade!

Hahaz~ Are you really going to knock down a room to keep a school of them? Wow~ I think thats going to be quite unprecedented in Singapore? You're in the states now? You studying there? Marine Bio? Cheers~

Hello all Anyone here has a nice specimen of Long Polyped Toadstool that he/ she is willing to sell or frag?

I didnt experience any ill effects after changing my salt mix from Coralife to Tropic Marine... shouldnt be a problem i think... or was a I pure lucky?

Yupz, i believe isolation is one of the reasons why it does poorly in captivity, but there are definitely a whole string of other reasons... Its quite hard to ascertain a number of MIs required in a tank for it to feel safe... and it would need a HUGE tank... but i must say a school of MIs will be visually quite quite stunning... 2-3 MIs will not be enough, cos I read that MIs are also prone to intraspecific aggression Anyway, my MI has died a horrible death of starvation, and i am not going to try these fish for a long time until someone formulates a food that will make even the Guai Lan MI Lau Nua...

You can try feeding flake foods cos they are very good colour enhancers. I have been using Tetra Marin flakes ever since I can remember and I havent experienced fading colours since. Cheers~

If you can find them, the Sunrise Dottyback and the Orchid Dottyback are fantastic choices. Both are less aggresive than diadema, royal and strawberry, and in my opinion are more beautiful. Got an Orchid Dottyback from ML recently. In fact its the first time I've seen it for sale since I started this hobby 6 years ago... hahaz~ Its really friendly and its long wavy fins are very ######... *wootz*

Wow... never knew there was such a distinction... And that Gramma Loreto sure has stylo eyeliner...

Nothing is better than having a stress free environment, ie good water parameters, in fact perfect water parameters and no aggression within the tanks. UV sterilizers only come into the picture as a last resort and in fact is not commonly used. UV sterilizers kill off all planktonic life, not just ICH in the free swimming stage

You bought 1 piece of live rock? I think you need much more than that... and 25 bux is ridiculously exorbitant manz... I hope you were advised to remove the weeds on the LR... cos the algae will most probably die off during the cycling process, and lead to pollution. I was advised my ML many years ago, b4 Henry, to gently brush off the surface detritus. This will prevent excessive die offs. Cheers~

When you added the Clowns, you disrupted the hierachy and pecking order of the current inhabitants in the tank... thats probably why they grew intolerant of each other Using their backside? Thats err... far worse than nibbling... Large Tangs can literally shred their enemies using the 'scalpal' like device at the caudal peduncle (is that right?)... I agree with Dispar, I did some rockwork arrangement last night and there was lots and lots of detritus in the water. This morning, my Regal Tang had white spots after being free from ich for many months. But seriously, if your PBT has not gotten ich and is still feeding well despite the aggression, i think it should be fine. But in the event that it is showing signs of stress, i think you will need to remove one or the other. Another possible solution is to add LR to your system. Provide more shelter for them i guess... Cheers~

Just a little warning about P***f*c M*r**e. You will need to do perhaps do a FW dip on new fishes you get from them before intro into your tank. Very early this year i bought a French from them, and i believe it had velvet and caused an epidemic that wiped out ALL my fishes... My fault for not doing QT, but well...

I'm at Holland Road too, but near the Clementi side... Seems like very few reefers in the West leh

I'm at Holland Road too, but near the Clementi side...

I am not Frenzy not AT&T, so if you would pardon advice from an amateur, read on... I trust that your readings of Ammonia and Nitrite are accurate, because i've not heard of grossly inaccurate NH3 and NO2 test kits. The Nitrate reading is of negligible importance cos i believe Damsels will tolerate sky high nitrates. Your pH is the reading that might be wrong, as pH test kits can be grossly inaccurate sometimes. Suggest you loan one. Fishes affected by pH will be jittery, easily frightened and will dash around wildly. You also mentioned that your temp is 26.5 to 28 degs. If this is the daily temp fluctuation of water in your tank, you need to do something to make it constant. Swings in water temperature Will cause stress. If I dont remember wrongly, pop eye is caused by a parasite. Freshwater dip will be able to rid of your problem if it is pop eye. Pls read the threads in the disease section on how to do a FW dip. What is your source of lifestock? Did you acclimate your fishes before adding them into your tank? Would suggest that you do a brief FW dip on whatever new fishes u are going to add in the future to remove all parasites on the body. Gasping for air is a symptom of white spot and velvet. But since you didnt mention that your fishes had spots, i guess its not Cryptocaryon Irritans. Did your fish appear pale, like it was coated flour prior to death? If so, you have Velvet in your tank, and it does kill swiftly. If velvet is the cause, simply remove all fishes, and leave the tank fishless for about a month. Velvet is much easier to eradicate from a tank than White Spot, but Velvet is more deadly. I think the all the pple that have replied to your thread mean well and sincerely want to help you. I really dont think you should slam them as so. Hope this doesnt offend. Cheers, Good Luck~

I always ask Henry where the next shipment is from. From the location, eg Philippines, Hawaii, Carribean (long long time dont have anyway), Red Sea, Sri Lanka, you can roughly guess what lifestock will be coming in... so if the shipment might have what i'm looking for, i'll just go down to peep on Sunday or something

Tigershark> Thats odd, I always thought they were supposed to increase in size each time they slough off that waxy membrane... Soft Corals are famed for being insiduous killers, as in they release toxins into the water that affect other corals downstream... Invisible chemical warfare Using carbon make help to minimise the effects of the toxins Looking for the ultra long polyp fiji toadstool...

I scaped my rockwork to provide 'caves' to shelter my fish from each other in the event of aggression... unfortunately, it also means that they're very well sheltered from me... Cannot catch... give up... haiz~

I think his pratas will die b4 the golden pygmy if he lowers salinity to 1.012... Good luck to catching the fish... i basically gave up on all fish catching contraptions a long time ago... i figure they're smarter than me... they can actually recognize nets and the transparent boxes i use...

I guess thats true in many scenarios. All I can do now is pray. Bought a piece of soft coral with base rock filled with sponge, he was pecking happily the whole afternoon, but no use, fishes wont survive on incidental peckings in a tank. Ah well~

*sigh* reminds me of my Lemonpeel that kena sudden death... She was such a beauty... now dare not add cos the Flame Angel is damn notti. Chase everything from flame hawk to orchid dottyback. Nothing better to do. Typical of flame angels... aggressive, territorial and too free... Flubberina> I dont think your Angels would actually 'enjoy' chasing each other... haha~ i think its just a way of establishing the 'pecking order' in the tank

1.008, not lower than this. Cant instantly subject your fish to this low salinity, will not have any adverse effects on the fish. But please take care that the pH and temp is adjusted prior. Also please do not use hyposalinity in a reef tank. Inverts will not be able to take the shock. Once the fish is free of ich, DO NOT subject the fish to normal salinity instantly. Do it very very slowly over hours or even days. The fish will be stressed at suddenly requiring more energy to maintain the osmotic balance by expelling salt. Hope the above info is accurate

Sorry for hijacking Paiseh paiseh... Dont think its light lehz DA, cos leather cant die in less than 2 days from poor lighting. Believe its toxins. In fact today just bought a purple hairy shroom and a capnella. The Shroom opened fully within 10 minutes, but up till now the capnella look like F***. Suspect the sponges in my tank releasing toxins that are affecting Softies... just my guess... Sianz~ i love softies!

Can I check if your hood is covered perpetually? If it is, pls open the cover to allow better ventilation and heat exchange. To keep temp relatively constant, I blow a Large Fan into my sump compartment. Water trickles in my sump, so heat loss is pretty okay. As mentioned by many liao, your lighting is inadequate and sadly obsolete, would suggest that you save up a little and rid the hood, get strip hood from N*t*** and at least use PL lights. T5 is a better, but more costly option. This way, you solve both the problem of heat and illumination. Cheers~