gunzo

1030am

series of shots taken at various times of the day .. sad thing is can't see the effect and the house lightings also affect the tank morning 930am (sorry dawn too early for weekends )

Cannot edit my post .. http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/...ature/index.php on why I am hesitant and doubtful of LR as a denitrifying element in our aquariums .. so yeah .. probably whatever you quote is correct .. in context

maybe you should then search more matured forums where people have been reefing for more than 20 years .. There is no 1 fixed way .. You insist LR does the cycle well and keeps it well .. that's part of the formula .. There are people who insist there's no real need for LR .. it contains all the unwanted creatures you'd ever find I say DSBs are fine Yet there are people who insist DSBs contribute to nitrate and phospate buildups WHY I'm not receptive to LR because you have to read in CONTEXT to what is written .. We do not know what type of LRs we are getting .. and only certain LRs (especially those found in Carribean) have the necessary structure to hold anaerobic bacteria .. Generally .. those available to us in this region are not the types that will be conducive in introducing denitrifying bacteria .. Actually .. yes .. most of the books now are reprints or outdated in their own right keke .. you'll never know .. maybe someday I'll be reading a book written by you 90% undiscovered territories we know so little about it's bound there'll be trials and errors since we want a little of that 90% in our homes There's many ways to skin a cat Think its time to go "I'm right and you're not wrong" way again We lay down what we think are ways to control nitrates .. and let others decide what they want to pick up ..

simple diagram .. parts you need .. 2 10v zener diode to cap peak voltage to 10v (that's the sense voltage from the ATI ballast) 4 1mOhm resistor variable (to adjust the bright and dim) 1 LM348 dual opamp (to output the power to drive the 10v) 2 1000 uF 16v capacitors note the diagram only shows 1 dimmer .. you need 2 to drive the white lights too .. the LM 348 allows you to drive 2 opamps .. take note adjustments for dimming will require additional adjustments in bright since it affects the charge up state BIG BEN .. this is just JIAM SI TONG until the the dimming module becomes available .. and its fun too while building it.. now just enjoy the setup ..

interesting articles jervis .. noticed alot of contradictions .. life rocks , nooks and crannies , porous etc does not really goes down well with anaerobic Anyway .. if one decides to use LR for nitrate control .. I for one would love to know if it works !! Thanks

reefdepot can order and get it sent to you .. so you don't have to worry about going to their showroom or keep waiting

Jervis, life rocks do not host anaerobic bacteria on their own .. One of the contention was Life rocks on 3-4inch sandbeds create an area of low / dead spots and create an ideal spot to germinate the anaerobic bacterias.. Couple of things to add as I am also fighting the N monster .. mine obviously due to overcrowding My preference is El Naturel(!) as it introduces least amount of chemical disturbance to the ecosystem .. My primary method for control right now 1. A set of cleaning crews to clear the overfed fish crap and leftover foods .. The nice thing about them is they work at night and in the morning, the sandbed and everything else looks pretty neat and tidy .. 2. Refugium (just started with a small batch of seed chaetos ) Macro Algaes are good in a sense as they also provide home to a host of other inhabitants..the seeder algae I got from a buddy came with brittle stars, amphipods, atapsia .. which are really good cleaning crews 2. Remote DSB That's my MAIN method for controlling NO3 .. there's a few things that you need to watch out for when attempting a remote DSB .. a. While initially setting up and colonising the sandbed .. you need an alternative form of NO3 control, otherwise you'll experience a spike that can kill off your LS and corals.. b. You need sufficient flow of water over the sandbed to ensure you get the maximum benefits c. It takes about 1 month to remove NO3 to a controllable level, but almost a year for your NO3 to reach 0 (yes .. seems like it can reach 0ppm NO3 with just DSB) For all that, with a real estate space of only 0.25m^3 with close to 25 fishes I think the DSB is doing a darn good job of maintaining NO3 at 20ppm(salifert and tropic marine) One more food for thought using chemical denitrators (both carbon based and sulphur) .. this is stopping me from going this route .. so correct me if I'm wrong.. Sulphur - the effluent requires controlled output .. otherwise and low pH or poisonous gases may cause a system crash.. something which I don't have time for.. Carbon based - Once the culture is established, you need to continuously kept it fed (which is weird as I always thought NO3 was the food).. again .. you can lose the entire colony and your hard work if you forget to feed them ..

ok .. thank for the idea .. moonlight on from thursdays til saturday until 3am .. kekeke

scratch head for many moons before a friend helped out with the though process .. I present my DAWN to DUSK simulation on the dimmable ATI Powermodule !! Nothing much to see .. kekeke since everything is timed over a period of 1.5 hrs Program goes like this Dawn Actinic Lights on dim at 0645hrs Actinic brighten program starts 0700hrs Actinic full bright at 830am and program starts dimming (crossover to the white lights period) White light on dim at 900am Actinics off at 930am and white light brighten program starts End of Dawn transition to morning Start Day actinic lights on dim at 1030 actitic brighten program starts at 1045 white light full bright at 1100 both actinic and white full bright at 1215pm (noon) actinic dim program starts 1pm actinic dim at 230pm (afternoon) End of noon Start of afternoon to dusk white light dim at 4pm actinic dim at 430pm actinic brighten program starts 5pm white light off at 530pm end of afternoon Dusk transition actinic dim at 7pm actinic off at 930pm End of Dusk Finally !!! project complete liao .. countless sleepness nights and trips to sim lim to buy the parts coz burnt alot of diodes ..

wow interesting .. so you stopped the return pump while fixing this ?? yes ... that's actually my point .. you have to ensure that the glass is totally clean before you attempt to silicon it This is the AM teeth .. as you can see .. it doesn't raise the level any higher .. since the bottom is already sitting inside the slots on the overflow.. eh.. assuming you have them Yes that starfish is still with me .. won't be nice without !! 1 hardy little bugger .. I got 1 linkia .. and long time never change rowaphos so PO4 went up 1ppm .. melted .. this guy still scooting around like nothing ..

delirium, the teeth only looks high .. don't forget that it has to sit somewhere .. by the time the teeth is inserted .. it's the same level as your original overflow height .. giantbicycle, if you have the slots in your overflow to fit the comb.. then get the AM overflow since it's not really worth DIY (trust me I did it .. still ended up getting the teeth from AM) and if you decide to silicon the eggcrate.. note you gotta dry up the tank for a while .. and the surface has to be really clean or it'll not stick..

Finally cool new features that you'll like

Aquatronica firmware update available now .. introduces new functions for ethernet and dosing pumps .. Still waiting for my dimming module

Anytime Concept is taken from Reefcentral .. Anthony Calfo I think .. I used a Coral Life salt container and filled it up to 2/3rds full with sand .. I used a 1500LPH pump to circulate the water from the sump to the tank .. thats it !! Jervis, Yes .. I like to see your office tank too !!

the round connectors are soft rubber plugs .. where one end plugs to the hydro flow and the other end is supposed to plug to the outlet of the pump or the pipes ..the rubber adaptor is designed such that you can either squeeze inside the outlet hole or fit outside .. This is how the hydro flo is secured to your pump or pipes.. very nice .. now thinking of re-running my return pipes to include these little things .. kekeke

It works VERY well.. I changed to internal sump DSB since then .. doesn't work as well as the sandbed in a pail Flood feed the fishes everyday (due some shy fishes) WITH some algae in the sump and yet the nitrate hovers around 50ppm .. I guess the remote was still best so far ..

Another pict ..

something I've been looking for for a while.. Gonna plug it to one of my pumps and see how it works

hi interested in this .. but need to know how is it controlled .. thanks!!!

looking for helfrichi firefish

Jervis bro, I'm serious about if you need to get rid of 1 helfrichi I like the fishes in your tank .. wish mine isn't as aggressive as yours Had to swap out my more aggressive tangs for my new PB tang..

something new to add .. the ability to dim the new ATIs My night mode using 2 actinic blue tubes .. (blue specialz too bright to simulate moonlight) Temporary fix until the dimming modules arrive !!

Where you order the helfrichi from ?? I want that also .. interesting they gather together .. firefish are solitary unless paired So you need to get rid of 1

the crystal pro unit comes with a wrench to open up the container and drop in the resin bed or charcoal filter ..