bawater

Can you advise me if this set up is feasible: 4x1.5ltr bottle and an air pump *fine - I intend to use my 5 ft tank cabinet for the culturing. *Should be fine if you have space , but a culture away from the main tank would lessen future contamination problems (and also stale air) or reusing output air from the skimmer. - I am using 1 ft PL light for the photosynthesis and it will be turned on 4 hours a day. * Any light source should grow phyto - you get higher density cultures if the light is horizontal behind the bottle. If you want to know if its the right spectrum , just get a bulb for planted aquariums. Nannochloropsis will grow optimum at 5000 lux and prefer more yellow & red in the spectrum. Any bulb from 6000k to 8000k will be fine, even cool white FL tubes work. - A fan to cool the bottles. Or soaking the bottle in my sump. * You don't need to cool the bottles, neither is soaking it in the sump a good idea. Soaking gives u contamination problems sooner or later. If you run it outside your cabinet - the cultures will run at room temperature which is fine. I am not sure if the temp is low enough. *they will grow fine 28c to 30c. Again, if u grow it out of the cabinet - temp will not be an issue. rgds brandon

If you mean the extra long polyps? not conclusive but i find that they appear and repair damaged tissue around them as i only see them at the base or on the cut portion of new fan cuttings. either that or for special feeding purpose. gorgonians can continue to expand and look normal while slowly starving for months before showing obvious signs of decline. The only really clear indication that your coral is thriving in the aquarium is that it shows significant new growth through time. actually this also refers to all your corals.

i did say physical.

Nah i think mixed up the brands already. Reefez Carbon has not launched Asean wide yet and no physical stocks has been released yet even to local shops. This was confirmed by them.

isn't the molten metal method used for the A-10 tankbuster's bullets. i'm sure u can find 9mm RR(recoiless Rifle) rounds that will do the same thing. (9mm has a smaller width than you little finger) Very mobile ambush usage by infantry or a tank killer team. A sabot round would have to come from an iraqi tank - and since M1's don't travel alone in enemy territory i think they would have spotted the tank.

There are many sites which go into details -only thing is that its species related e.g one for rotifers,one for bbs,cyclops etc etc. most of them measure the size in microns (1000 microns is 1mm). phytoplankton come in a range of sizes(2microns-160microns) -so unless you specify the actual micro algae strain can't give u the size. Rotifers - 100-150microns (L strain) BBS - on average 350-400microns or even up to 600microns. (again there are different strains of bbs,e.g San Francisco bay ones are smaller & higher nutrition but also more expensive due to limited quantity harvested) cyclops - 800microns (part of the copepod family) Assortment of Pods - 1000microns onwards (wild zooplankton mixture range in sizes from 100-1000microns)

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DT is liquid in a bottle, the feeding instructions on how much & how often will be stated on the bottle. It is a live food source.(if you feed within the use by period) You feed directly into the tank. Cyclopeeze - is a very big planktonic food(its 800microns), a little goes a long long way . Its a little bigger than baby brine shrimp(300-350microns) - so it feeds fishes and the larger meat eating corals. Just add a dash to the food mix, this will add variety. Not too much or cyano will be round the corner(since its a dead food). cyclops is a copepod , named cyclops because it has a single red eye(like the greek giants). i think it is parasitic in the wild(needing fish as a stage in its life cycle)- and this is why u have frozen,freeze dried,processed into flake but neve,never 'live'. It does contain a good nutritional profile. Reborn sells the MBF range - i'm sure silversides are in there. Otherwise NTUC or cold storage will have them(just get the uncooked version) Your lions will also eat market prawn (cut small), mysis,maybe even sotong/squid peices & live FW feeder prawns -as a treat.

Yes. mysis are tiny little shrimp, easily bought frozen in most LFS. Live mysis...is available at watercircle but only on occasions (like a lucky draw) These are bigger than the frozen type but abt the same size as the smallest FW feeder shrimps. Mysis has enough nutrition to be a sole food(which is why seahorses are weaned onto frozen mysis asap)

If you are asking to regards to feeding predatory marine fishes like lions,tuskfish,groupers etc - brine shrimp is not going to fill them much. As a snack will be ok(they do contain certain amino acids). FW feeders have a very high fat content ,when fishes fed solely on these die (like guppies,goldfishes and mollies) - almost all show a fatty layer around their liver. Actually it goes the same for FW predators too. Not enough of research to prove that this is the cause of death but it sure shortens lifespan IMO. One in a very blue moon as a treat should be fine. The closest live feed to natural marine prey will be ghost shrimps (FW feeder shrimps) . Their nutitional makeup is relatively close to their marine cousins. They will remain alive in full strength saltwater for abt 1-2hrs. (remove any uneaten dead shrimp). Live mysis is too expensive to be a daily feed. A variety of foods will enhance the fishes coloration and health.

corrado is right, zoo= meat phyto= plant Magic word = food size The real ocean marine snow is made up of particulate and dead matter -detrius,bacteria,mucus,dead phyto,zoo,fish scales etc etc. its a soup that rains down to the deeper depths of the sea. The bottle marine snow is mainly deionized Water, phytoplankton, (Nannochloropsis, Tetraselmis, Isochrysis, Spirulina, Schyzochitruim), dried seaweed meal, zooplankton, fish oil, citric acid. Although it is a dead food stored on shelfs at room temperature, anything with a little phyto material in it is better than yeast based foods. Filter feeding corals is very generic - many have different needs and food size. You can't get a hamster to swallow a watermelon.

The things that will grow in the canister is not algae . (there is no light and algae are plants that need light...even cyano) You will find tunicates,tiny sea squirts and maybe sponges growing there.(mainly filter feeders) when u wash the canister- just scrub them out. Only a few will grow. Doesn't matter what liquid food u feed in this case- if u have them growing on LR,they will grow in the canister too. won't affect the flowrate much. DT is so small that it will go thru your filter (unless u run a micron filter) - so even if u off it while feeding its still going to get into the filter when u switch it on.

That is product specific - depending on the grade of kalk you use. but to quote seachem's reef kalkwasser as a guideline: Add 3 g (1 teaspoon) to 4 L (1 gallon) of water and mix to dissolve. If using pure water, a fully saturated solution is prepared by adding 6 g (2 teaspoons) to 4 L (1 gallon). Drip this solution into tank. Monitor pH and carbonate alkalinity. Adjust rate of addition to maintain a stable pH (8.3–8.4). HINTS: Adding 4 L (1 gallon) of a saturated kalkwasser solution to 150 L (40 gallons) will raise calcium by 24 mg/L. Always use the clear supernatant (top solution) only and do not allow undissolved material to enter the aquarium. If you do not use the same brand, the above becomes a very rough guideline- but it still works. This is also where u can use vinegar(in proper amounts) to get a higher concentration of calcium into the same amount of water thus not only being able to maintain calc. levels but also raise it over a few days depending on your uptake. i think vinegar should be left till later , when you really know how much the tank uptake is and how much roughly you dose. anyway, its already been discussed in detail on previous posts.

1) Do u need so much calcium? Its also not how much water u use- its how concentrated the kalk solution is. 1 teaspoon of kalk to the amount of water you use(1gal) should be fine as top off. GET A TEST KIT and you can answer the calcium question of overdose. i don't understand why you think you need a calcium supplement if you don't know what the initial levels are or what your target values are or if kalk alone is enough for your tank's consumption- this is the only way you can really overdose. 2)As ian has mentioned, just drip at night or early in the morning - as you tank's pH is highest during the day. 3)It has been proven that the long-term use of Kalkwasser precipitates phosphates out of the water and that these phosphate based compounds settle on and in the live rock in the aquarium, as well as in and on the substrate that may be present in the aquarium. Since these compounds are not soluble at the high pH levels, they are really not a cause for concern, because in their insoluble state, they are not available as nutrients for uptake by micro algae and the growth of the same. Over time they simply accumulate more and more in the tank as insoluble matter; which can, by the way, be siphoned out from time to time (maybe every six months or so). Insoluble matter is of no concern, since it cannot affect tank conditions. In its insoluble state, it is also inert and does not react in any way with the water in the aquarium. In this state, it certainly cannot provide nutrients for algae to grow profusely in some reported cases. BUT situations can, and may,occur whereby certain areas of the tank actually exhibit a different pH level than the one measured in the main body of water in the aquarium. In this instance, "different" means lower, and sometimes quite a bit lower, than the aquarium's pH level. Phosphates that are bound in an insoluble form are, therefore, not available to algae. But can and will go into solution because of pH fluctuations in certain areas of the aquarium This is brought on by the biological process - maybe decaying matter like fish food or a dead fish stuck in a dead space etc... When pH drops in those areas of the aquarium, these insoluble compounds break up with the result that orthophosphate goes back into solution, giving rise to the sudden appearance of micro algae growth, a growth that was totally unexpected and unpredictable given the tank's water quality conditions. PO4 absorbing media would be a better choice for permanent removal of phosphate. But don't worry so much about the phosphate part to stop you using kalk, its just one of those minor things.

note that there are a few kinds of sea fans-(i mostly play around with sea whips). Deep water & shallow water gorgonians. they do have different care requirements with regards to water temp. The research of the the specific one that you keep (or intend to keep) is up to you.

They will encrust the new base fast. Tissue recovery can be measured in days (in my tank). The pic shows a 7 day old mounting- already starting to encrust the putty.

A newly done mix frag - 2 days old. fingerprints on putty still fresh :note the purple cutting already has polyps at the base repairing the damage done by me stripping the bottom 1cm of flesh by wire strippers and plugging into putty.

If you provide a good environment- they can be propagated easily.

If you do a search on the web for> gorgonians <- you will find pages of answers. The brown ones are photosynthetic , but the rest are not fussy abt light. IMO it doesn't matter where u put them with regards to light (in the open or in shaded areas). The important part is that you provide food and enough water current to bring them that food. a piece of normal fish food flowing past u at 10-12cm per sec is considered medium flow.(5-6cm per sec is considered low flow) Food particle size: A mix of phytoplankton and rotifers or rotifer replacement(e.g golden pearls rotifer I & II size)will do fine. There is research that shows that gorgonians will capture bbs but only to eject the complete package later(they seem too big). Polyp extension shoes a healthy fan- by looking at a fan fully open.....think abt how many mouths there are to feed.

its 180ml

It will do more harm than good. It is a pea flower based food, same as yeast or egg yolk foods. there is not enough nutritional benefits in it to make it a recommended food. It will also Tax your filtration limits. You do not have to worry abt feeding liquid foods in a FOWLR. The LR comes with worms,crabs,bacteria,coralline algae and sea squirts - they will all do fine without it. If you really want to feed your tank just because of a few sea squirts then use a phytoplankton based diet. "phytoplan,phytoplex,DT live phyto etc."

Moving this out from pasar malam. Tap water has NO3 ard 0.5-0.15max as listed by PUB http://www.pub.gov.sg/water.htm (water quality) mine comes from choa chu kang waterworks and reads abt 3ppm NO3 (with a salifert kit). No mention of NO2 and it may come along the way in the pipework or storage tanks, but anyway once your filtration is established- NO2 should not be measurable so it shouldn't be a big deal. Results does depends on the test kit brand.

you need to resize your pics smaller & repost. 800pixels width max. 600 or 640pixels will do fine. will leave the pics as it is till tomorrow before removing them. (with mega pics at this rate....won't be long till SRC goes down again) thanks