bawater

regenerate means u can use it again, of couse if u use it in saltwater u need to 'regenerate' in a diff solution- be it freshwater or in some media stated bleach. It will change its colours once it has absorbed in tank chemicals(including medication). With all these regenerate products they can only be used a certain number of times before u have to discard them.(if not how would the manufacturers turn profits) with US products u can be sure to follow the instructions on use cause they do have specific R&D budgets. Especially on medications!!!i cannot stress enough not to use local made liquid meds!!!! u will only be poisoning your tank(i shall not mention specific brand,but its contents mixed by agak agak methods in rusted metal drums). FYI- even wooden diffusers can be regenerated by soaking in normal diluted bleach then boiled in FW. Then soak in water with anti-chlorine for added measures. This will allow u to re-use it again up to a max of 2-3 times. $$ wise, really your decision.

phosguard does work,following the instructions that come with it- but as tanzy says! burning hole in pocket!Even at half dosage. i'm going thru a bottle a month. Here are some new- regenerative kind of media,Top picks in the US market. 1) Purigen Purigen is a synthetic adsorbent, not a mixture of ion exchangers or adsorbents, but a unique macro-porous synthetic polymer that removes soluble and insoluble impurities from water. Purigen removes proteins, nitrites and nitrates, ammonia, and a broad spectrum of organics. Purigen darkens progressively as it exhausts, and is easily renewed by treating with household bleach. 2) Poly-Filter Pads The Poly-Bio Filter Pad, by Poly-Bio-Marine, Inc. With Poly-Filters, all water impurities like phosphates, nitrates, copper, silicates, and even ammonia are absorbed. The pads can be regenerated by simple rinsing in saltwater (saltwater use can be regenerated by the reverse, rinsing in freshwater). The pad design allows for use in canister filters or any other type of filtration system..(Product Review) 3) HyperSorb A synthetic adsorbent with organic removal capacity. HyperSorb also stabilizes pH and ionic balance, removes pollutants and helps control ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.

This article from the breeders registry might be some use for you guys. water velocity over acros

not to mention 30 chromis! now that is what called keeping schooling fishes!. solly can't read german- any ideas what's the measurements? is it 2.10M x 1.10m x 90cm? 2000L? only thing i can gather is 4x 400wMH & 2x T5 acitinic.

for the sera nirite kit- u need to x3 the result to get total value.(its in small print at the bottom of the box) just gauging by colour, u have a rough guide on water conditions. if its yellow- ok, if its orange then something is wrong with your filtration. u only need to wait 5mins max for the results-in fact 2mins is enough. The sera kit i use for freshwater.

with a protein skimmer & a cheap thermometer(to keep track of temp), cause feeding in Fish only results in a lot of waste-uneaten foods. The OH will get in the way when u intend to put in lights,protein skimmer. Running without a skimmer will be ok for a while, maybe 3 mths before u see the scum on the water surface. Although a surface skimmer connected to a canister will keep suface clear- the dissolve organics will be high.

arcadia white FL is not exactly white- its kinda orange. arcadia doesn't measure their lamps in kelvins- but in CRI. Sure u can change the actinic to another white- but from my view- some corals do benefit from actinic 03 spectrum. Honestly, your opening pandoras box of lighting- espeacially for corals.- you're looking at around 4-6 FL tubes of white+your choice nos of acitinic tubes for any long term success. & with FL tubes u need to replace on a regular basis. If u do intend to stick to FL then - have a look at keong seong at havelock for a variety of FL tubes. Its written on a list on the pillar near the counter. U can also ask them on recommendation. Be prepared that 3ft FL tubes are actually more or the same price as 4ft lenghts. Their prices are OK. They have 10,000kelvin, & 20,000kelvin coral sun tubes if u wanna spend-. Although 2x 30w FL over your 3ft won't let u keep much corals. It works fine for a fish only. And 1x 20,000k tube does not equal the same as 4nos x 6500k. still need to stick to wattage per gal.- that's why u need to plan ahead for the inhabitants you intend to keep.

[d]3v|L- wrong thread, but From what i gather- u have a 3ftx1.5x1.5(36"x18"x18") without sump 6mm glass tank?- so it would be external filtration? 2x 30w FL(1x white & 1 x acitinic)? Your volume is 191 ltrs or 50gal FULL. Counting LR & sand water displacement would give u 152 ltr or 40gal. u started whole setup on the 2nd dec?last week? You are right to say that everyone has to start somewhere...but do it the right way so its back to BMT on this one(Basic Marine Training) - Becareful of how much LR u stack in your tank,6mm is very thin. - Your lighting is enough for fish & macroalgae.....& very very very low lighting corals - the brown colouration mushrooms,or sun corals(with supplementation feedings).ONLY WHEN the tank is cycled. - Your tank has not cycled, 1 piece of prawn is enough(3 pieces will rot & water quality will spiral down). you should not see the peaks till the 2nd week(ard 14days later- u should see a slight rise in nirites,this should be zero in an establised tank). i would even guess that your filter has not even established yet. The bacteria needs abt 2-3weeks to get a foothold. ceramic is fine. The final peak u should look out for is the rise in nitrates, then your tank has finished cycling.-if all goes well by the third week. A month would be better.(then u would need to look into the nitrate level,hopefully by your deep sand bed or a partial water change) - u cannot compare the situation to phang's, he did a transfer(from one exsisting to another) & the only new thing was the tank so minimal stress created to its inhabitants. - Your alkalinity is the least of your worries now- it will settle out once the tank gets going. - unless u are getting direct sunlight into your tank-its not doing much good. Your tank volume is not high enough to dissipate the heat from the sun & everything will cook. i understand what u mean by not direct sun(enough light to view), that's why i say its not enough light for corals. Reefworld does that in koi tubs cause its just holding corals for transhipment to other countries or LFS. ASK to view his showroom & see how they actually keep em. only way now for temp is using AC fans(using evaporation to cool) or a chiller. ADDING ice directly is only a temporary solution- it keeps temp down for 4-6hrs(2x 2ltr ice cream tubs will cool your 3ft from 29c to 26c in 20mins) & once u add fish and invertebrates u have to becareful of this method.(the same amount of ice will cool 8gal to 23c) do a little reading on the nitrogen cycle while u r waiting to cycle- there are so many articles,& there are sooo many topics to cover & u can never read enough. Welcome to marine

i have a question also- revelant. those of using calc reactors(which use CO²). what is the ph of the water coming out? Although it goes into the sump- non less its still an ongoing source lowering your PH. Is it un-noticeable? Let's not count respiration from fishes/inverbrates/corals.

i didn't know if i wanted to let u guys know this.........but since they will end up cut up alive anyway. The normal kinds are available in the better fishing bait shops-pasir panjang & changi. About a fist sized $2 each. last time went fishing- my friend bought 2 to try(shop insited beri good) & both of us didn't have the heart to use them so let them go.- funny thing is i let a lot of things go that day...numerous parrot fishes too. Also saw 2 angels around the pier. i'm a hopeless attempt at a fisherman!! suckers damn strong & a very clever animal- eats small cabs. Keep your fingers away from the beaked mouth.

oooh! i thought ######- jap mine just my initials- b. a. waterhouse (before u say anything!NO not related)

It is very possible ange- u may want to do it again, but in slow steps this time with low stocking levels & some additional equipment. All in good time. just that buying a new tank & some water & putting in 2 clowns & an anemone all on the same day spells trouble. + guess the shop didn't tell u anything about salinity?water top up?how much light that anemone needs & PROTEIN SKIMMING.

My cuke is skin colour. a pic would be ######. Tango-its a Nudi, that's a Hypselodoris bullocki, they come in various colouration. From white to blue to purple. Just saw them purple ones in reborn 3weeks back. common in the phillipines.choosy abt the sponges they eat. Hypselodoris bullocki apologies to the cuke fans, thought the link was appropriate cause these often for sale in LFS here.

AT has spoken- & to your last question: Nature sells lighting pretty reasonable. If u can go for the PL lights - you would get better visuals,and a chance to keep low lighting invertebrates later on. FL?- cheap but stick to Fish only with these(unless u don't mind using 6 tubes for your 3ft-which is almost the same price as PL). MH is the best. Hope u not intending reef? cause $400 a little low to get the equipment needed. use up as much as u can to get the tank & sump,........... then skimmer(if u have a sump then get an in-sump model),rocks,then lights. If u buy the other things in stages then it won't hit u so hard-also gives u time to cycle.(fish go in only when u have purchased the last item on your list-by which should take a couple of months) There is no rush.- mistakes happen when u rush things like cycling. starting out- Fish only is less forgiving(if u don't mix predator & prey together) canister filters do work(try 2nos of ehiem for a 3ft)- but then again for fish only setups with regular water changes but a sump will increase your total volume & lets u hide your equipment.

well- so far to me its inert.Apart from the diatom bloom that may come(which everybody gets anyway). Just test the parameters often to be sure.

yup- read up. if u do some reading you will find out the reasons why bigger is better & small tanks are for the more advanced aquarist. The major factor of marine failure is due to lack of knowledge on how to keep & feed these animals properly ,also starting on the wrong foot(starting mini tanks)without proper equipment.

got some links for whoever wanders to Hong Kong. i'm not advertising them= just giving u guys a head start in route planning. a list of aquarium shops in HK. http://www.ateamsys.com/aquarium/shop.html a list of korallin retailers in HK http://www.oceansysonline.com/korallin/eshops.html & Here is a mail order link (based in HK): everything is charged in US dollars(may not be the cheapest- but the freight is cheaper). UP to 20kg weight= US$12 within Asia. They carry dosers,Denitrator,computers etc. Iwasaki Eye 250W 6,500K Bulb (US$60) Iwasaki Eye 400W 6,500K Bulb (US$60) Iwasaki 400W Coils Ballast (US$120) Korallin Calcium Reactor http://reefclub.org/store/index.html

its inert. I'm using it for my 4ft peru setup for L46 plecs. Should be the same one as i'm using(quartz river sand?). Not that many kinds on the market(i tink only one) & its used mostly in FW planted.but i'm not too sure on its chemical properties-if it would be a medium for diatoms(which seem to love the silica in local beach sand). i have not tried it in SW. And if you're looking for whitish effect- might be in for a shock cause it turns sort of beige(light brownish/muddish) in colour when wet.

it didn't look like the aiptasia eating kind edwin.-colouration different from the 2 species indicated. have a look see to find yours-(might as well bookmark site) slug r us

ange- here is a simple breakdown > 1st, the invertebrate u got- that needs proper lighting(a realm on its own) if which u cannot provide then it won't last(first stick to fish). 2nd- u need to stabilise your tank before adding livestock,(marine is a little more sensitive). 3rd- clowns may or may not survive as they dun really cycle tanks that well(all depends on stock health). 4th- click on the link wedgee provided, it will lead u to some very basic setup advise. 5th- go to the library & read on some marine info- or use the net to read up on the basics.- link below provided(just click on it) saltaquariums.com 6th- DO NOT-DO NOT-DO NOT buy anything else until u have read up the basics- as there are some other equipments u need to measure some parameters- salinity/ph/nitrates. i'm not saying that a small tank can't work- its just that u need the knowledge on the parameters & then its not that difficult. Firstly- u must look after the water, then livestock will not be a problem(i mean fish only). so the bigger volume u have the easier it is. When u buy water from the shops- u are buying old water which is a fine start to jump start your cycling process, but its also full of nitrates & the whole point of water changes is to get rid of nitrates(the end product of ammonia). -Here's the truth: if u keep listening to that LFS then i am sad to say lots of $$$ gonna be wasted, nothin compared to how many fishes & inverterbrates are going to be dead. START with the right information & u will be on your way with less losses. i'm pretty sure this post will be followed wif lotsa beginners advice..... BlueTerror-To cycle the tank. If u can wait 1 mth then thats the best. otherwise- 1-2 weeks later u can add LR & cycle some more. You will go thru 2 peaks, first in ammonia by the 3rd week then nirites(by the 4th or 5th week)which will end up as nitrates which signals the first partial water change. Then livestock- by which the more sensitive fishes should stay alive- if u stick to low stocking levels. using old water(purchased water) is to speed up cycling process. How long?- that depends on your levels & how hard your bacteria works. u need to measure.

depends what for? - fish only/macroalgae/soft or hard corals. It make a diff to your light planning when if u want to mix with corals. as to the kelvin rating & wattage amt:- more on if you intend to add anykinds of corals to your livestock in the future. If its just for viewing sake- 10k would be much better for marine cause its a brighter white(match wif actinic it gives a crisp white/blueish effect) instead of the 6500K FL or 7200k FL which has a slight yellowish tint & you use acitinic 03 to get the white effect.

TanGo- as far as i know, i've never seen of any SH eating dry foods? neither from any US or german sites & espeacially not from anyone in SG so far. If yours do- treasure them cause its a gem. Most u see in LFS are wild....very few are captive bred. Cheaper to get wild ones($$$$ that's the bottom line here with traders ain't it?) Mostly captive bred specimens are sold in the states where there are a couple of farms. Its already hard enough to get wild SH to eat frozen foods- some will take it immediately but some won't & just go on a hunger strike. FYI- Reborn don't feed his horses, sealife feeds frozen brine & mysis. Kwang feeds tiny baby feeders(guppies/mollies). i think pac marine feeds brine cause they bring in brazilian species(& they surely won't let them waste away).Brazilian reds(could be H.reidi but i'm not sure)are $40 each. If you think that your seahorse not eating- try the smallest FW feeder shrimps u can find(3mm-5mm).- its a sure hit, then slowly turn them to frozen mysis. Try to watch your tank when u feed- i think maybe if u feed frozen, your other fishes will wallop the food leaving your horses with very little or next to nothing.

Thanks fred, i think i saw it in last sat classifieds. total set wif 2 seahorses $349. (addresse was in seletar) - its just throwing money away?i think rip off. Its targeted for the public- & those with no SW knowledge(which is the targeted audience anyway) will just be looking at the deaths of their cute seahorses in a couple of months. The tank u see is a 1.5ft glass tank with a 15watt FL tube & a very small overhead filter(abt 5cmx15cm). Tank retails in the LFS at abt $130 to $140. Maybe upcoming aquarama u may see those setups- build one yourself for $150 & u can have 6 horses+2 fishes. My horses Mine is a 24"x12"x18" ,lighted by a 15w FL 7200k,some macro algae,small air skimmer, & home built bio-filter from acrylic(overflow design-4"x9"x16") to compensate for the bio-load. Total 11 seahorses+1 yellow goby + 1 6line wrasse for clean up. SH fed mainly fed live shrimp(range from 1mm-5mm),supplemented by frozen mysis,frozen & live brine shrimp. Fed 2-3 times a day. live shrimp & mysis make a lot of diff in nutrition- as to a diet of brine shrimps because of the fatty acids that the shrimp posses,- as u can see in the close ups, mostly all are round bodied in my tank. Some SH just won't eat enough.- as yet i couldn't raise the first brood cause of plankton size food constraint. BBS doesn't work cause too big.

Nature- has aqualux 10k 36w. 2 for $30 its opp. Thomson medical centre. they also have the 6k osrams.

Nature- has aqualux 10k 36w. 2 for $30 its opp. Thomson medical centre. The osrams are a little more $20 each.(6000k)